Top 20 2006 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. 83-13 is a communication problem between computers. 83-13: ECM/PCM RELATION FAILURE. 61-23 MODULATOR- CONTROL UNIT POWER SOURCE LOW VOLTAGE. May 26, 2022

I need my car fixed soon. : r/mechanics - Reddit

https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Honda+Accord+83-13+code 61-10 is the driver's seat belt buckle switch https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Honda+Accord+61-10+code

Honda seatbelt switch diagnostics. Code 61-10

Bob is the Oil Guy https://bobistheoilguy.com > forums > threads > honda... Nov 15, 2012 - I scanned it for codes and found a 61-10 (open in left front seat belt buckle switch). Since my scanner doesn't have any troubleshooting for it, ... ..

You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. It will tell you exactly the issue within 10 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

There could be several reasons why your running light is not turning on. Here are some possible causes:

1. Faulty bulb: The running light bulb may have burned out and needs to be replaced.
2. Loose connection: The running light circuit may have a loose connection. This could be a result of a damaged wire, a corroded terminal, or a loose fuse.
3. Faulty switch: The running light switch may be faulty and not sending the signal to turn on the light.
4. Damaged wiring: The running light wiring may be damaged and needs to be repaired.

To diagnose the problem, you can try the following:

1. Check the bulb: Make sure the running light bulb is properly installed and not burned out.
2. Check the connections: Inspect the connections in the running light circuit for any damage or loose fittings.
3. Test the switch: You can try turning on the running lights using the switch on the dashboard. If the switch is not functioning properly, it may need to be replaced.
4. Check the wiring: Look for any visible damage to the running light wiring.

If you are unable to find the cause of the problem, it may be best to have a mechanic diagnose the issue. They have the tools and expertise to identify the root cause of the problem and fix it.

I am not a specialist on the subject but am aware that an A/C takes as much as 20 to 25% of power from an engine. It therefore makes me think that if your car is in need of a service and/or if some kind of service or age related problem exists, then when you switch on (use) the A/C the 20 to 25% power loss is exacerbated by the inherent problem resulting in the current problem you experience. I suggest you have your car checked on an engine analysis machine at a Honda Dealer or reputable motor workshop.

There are two fuses that must both be good for the passenger low beam to work. Fuse 4 and fuse 6. If they're good, you should see battery voltage on the red/green wire in the bulb socket.

https://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto.com/how-to/torque-cylinder-head-bolts-honda-accord-395125/ Try watching this video might help ya

look at the electrical print if you see a resistor in line with the motor that is your problem change it.

Do you have the window lockout turned on? It disables all windows except the driver window.

Yes, this can be caused by failure of the clockspring in the steering column. Repair requires airbag expertise and special tools.

A timing belt usually makes a loud squealing noise (like a 'shriek/scream') when it is worn or slipping, not a grinding noise. A quick check - before you start the car - is to pour some water onto the inside of the belt where it goes around the pulleys. If there's no noise at start up, you know it is the belt at fault (or the metal pulley/s are worn). There are kits to replace the timing belt (and bearings). Have a look on Ebay: 843results for accord v6 timing belt If the noise happens before the car moves - it obviously can't be your brakes. When backing up the noise may appear louder simply because your head is turned .. If the noise is actually coming from a wheel, it possibly could be the backing plate on the brakes - the thin disk behind the brake may be rubbing on the rotor. However.. a grinding noise ... if it is coming from the front of the engine in the general area of the timing belt be very wary - if a bearing or the belt fails, your engine will be history. Why not give a mobile mechanic a call? Those guys are usually quite good and a lot cheaper than a workshop

Not 100% sure, but I think it gets power from ecu, and feedback from the position sensor.

check your trunk lock mechanism. it might not be locking properly and not seating right due to rear damage and trunk lights are on and that can drain the battery overnight. have it adjusted.

Someone knowledgeable will need to check out the electrical system to see whether the clutch, the relay, the wiring, or the dashboard switch is the cause of the problem. The clutch itself is the most likely cause, with the wiring second. These can be replaced, but very commonly a repair shop will wish to replace the clutch and the compressor both, instead of just the clutch. The cost can be high. ( $500 - $1000 parts & labor) God bless your efforts.

Most cases you can just check the sticker i? engine compartment for belt routing

If one of those 25 1/4" sheetmetal screws caught a wire it could be your problem.

The vacuum that runs the doors open and shut is went south try a new heating and cooling dash unit

Call your local Honda Dealership and talk to the service department. I think that they can take your VIN# and the model number off of your radio (may require you removing the radio) and then I think that the unlock code can be retrieved. The may also ask you to prove ownership. Hope this helps.

I found this info in your owners manual. Don't know if that answers your question?

31 degrees below zero ?

try to fine circle black holder fuse under dashboard