2005 Mercury Mountaineer - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The instructions on how to reset the' oil change required' message is in the owners manual (I believe it's page 81). Listed below is a site to get a free download of the manual for your 05 Mountaineer. Let me know if you have any trouble accessing this info.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/results.asp

The sound could be isolated and may not be related to you not having 4wheel drive. You may have to inspect the speed sensors on the hubs of the wheels. You may have it inpsected and see if there could be a faulty sensor. Some 4x4 relies on sensors for 4x4 to work and these sensors also help ABS to work. Inspect the drive shafts as well. This may have caused the noise and may have affected your 4wheel drive capabilities.

There is no dipstick, the transmission is a completely sealed system. You have to take to dealer for service.

When one of your blinkers goes fast, it means that the other one is out. Check it out.

You will need to release the tabs on the inside of the radio. You can do this with anything about 3 inches long and the diameter of a paperclip. Insert what you are going to use in all four holes on the edges of the face of the radio to release the tabs. Next you will need to pull two 9/32" hexhead screws from the underside of the trim panel surrounding the radio. after removing the screws the trim panel will unclip with a little bit of pressure outwards and the radio will slide out. unpluge the wiring harnesses on the rear of the radio and you're good to go.

These are all connected to the same circuit. Check all bulbs and relays , fuses or fuse wires. Fuse wires are wires that burn out if a short is found. The relays maybe under the hood in the "black fuse box'. I will appreciate yourthumbs up if this helps .

check the brake switch which could be causing a close circuit and hence this problem.

if you dont have one on the pan the whole pan needs to come off. Look to see, A wrench is all it takes or a socket is better

its back near the tank, special tools are needed to disconnect the filter, they are usually cheap from the parts store.

IF YOU UNHOOK THE NEGATIVE CLAMP FROM THE BATTERY AND YOU STILL GET A READING FROM NEGATIVE POST ON THE BATTERY TO THE FRAME YOUR METER IS COMPLETING THE 12 VOLT CIRCUIT AND THAT IS WHY YOUR READING 12 VOLTS ON YOUR METER. SOME BATTERY CABLES HAVE A SECOND GROUND FROM THE CABLE TO THE FRAME BUT IS CONNECTED AT THE BATTERY POST SUCH AS A FUSEABLE LINK WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THE CABLE YOU DISCONNECT THE GROUND. IF YOU HAD A SHORT AND READ 12 VOLTS THRU THE GROUND YOU WOULD DEFINETLY SEE SMOKE

Before you do this you might want to try fresh gear lube. On Ford products they use a synthetic additive in the rear and not in the front 4x4 axle.
The next thing would be to determine if it is a wheel bearing or a pinion bearing. You have to pull the axles and eliminate them as the problem. You might get lucky and not need to do the pinion.
The technical part of shimming the pinion gears with replacing the pinion bearing is about the worst part of the job. You won't know about the gears until you see them. You will need extra shims on hand.
It is a moderate job for two people. If you have all the parts it can be done in a day.

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door

1. Disconnect negative battery cabe
2. Carefully detach the door handle bezel
3. Pry out the front edge of the armrest switch control plate and disconnect the electrical connectors then remove the retaining screw from the opening
4. Remove the lower trim panel retaining screws
5. Once all the screws are removed grasp the trim panel at the switch opening and pull it up and out.Disconnect the power mirror electrical connector

Take it to a different autoparts store and bring pen and paper. Write down codes. You can use search on browser and key in "Mercury code xxx" xxx means whatever number you are told by autoparts. Internet explorer will pull up code. Chances are the second autoparts store may be more knowledgable.

Your cold start circuit is not working and your friend may be right about coolant sensor. Also, the reader Advance used will not reprogram your car. It only reads problem so you have to change physical parts yourself.

Good Luck Joe

Check to make sure the battery terminals are clean then retry, Usually the starter is bad when this problem arises but make sure the battery is charged and the connections are clean and tight at the battery.

If there is enough wire on both sides to repair I would reconnect the wire with a heat shrinkable **** connector so you can seal out the water. If not you may have to replace either the connector end or the sensor depending on which side of the circuit the brak is on....Hope this helps

I had the same problem for months. I checked the owners manual, checked the fuse box, everything I could think of. Then, today, I did some online research and someone said one of the CD's is probably just jammed or slipped out a bit. The suggestion was to gently slide a credit card over the disk (through the door/slot, which in my case was partially open). I just tried it. The door closed and the message said "initializing". It worked! The CD player is back to normal.

take off the part of the dash with the lighter on it and fitt new from any car shop

If it didn't do it before they flushed the transmission, I'd say they did something wrong. Either they didn't hook something back up properly or they may have even filled it with the wrong type transmission fluid. There are 2 types, and it can really screw things up if they put the wrong one in it.

The front lighter is powered by fuse 24 in the interior fuse panel and the console power points are fuse 7 and 9 in the battery junction box under hood.
If you have a 12V test lamp you can check the socket for power and check the wire to the socket.The socket may be bad.