1993 Jeep Cherokee Country - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Bad alternator or bad connection. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Melted wires indicate a heavy load or a short circuit.
If you're having no other issues and the headlights work, it'll most likely just be a heavy load.
Speculation here, but being a Jeep it may very well be running the full headlight circuit load through the switch instead of utilising a relay system to reduce switch load.
Incorporating a couple of relays may solve your underlying issue.
To fix the contact issue you currently have with the wire, you may need to replace the plug. It depends what's actually wrong with the wire and connector it's attached to. Sandpaper, a file or an Emery board can improve electrical contact on the plug surface, but if the problem is the wire, it may need to be soldered or shortened, or the plug replaced.

LHD vs RHD parts:
Most LHD switchgear will fit a RHD model of the same car. It's mainly mechanical items and trim that differentiate a RHD and LHD car.
So if you know what you're ordering, there's no reason you can't buy the LHD part.
The headlight switch and plug are good examples of this.

run a quality injector through the system as the injectors may not be operating properly

First. Check fuse then check blower motor resistor that not it you probably have bad blower motor

Does this haopen everytime or only after it has sat for awhile?

Front end shake is very likely your ball joints. That can also give you a clunk noise. Obviously while checking the bj's you should also check all the other suspension components for looseness as well. Many shops will tell you that the shaking is caused by a bad steering damper (sideways shock attached to the steering) Shaking can damage the damper but unless the cause of the shaking is eliminated a new damper will quickly fail and the problem will return. The pound in the floor could be coming from a bad engine or transmission mount. Likely that is a separate issue.
If you don't already have one, get yourself a haynes or chilton manual. Either will be helpful to you in finding problems and actually doing the repair.

Hello tami,. the belt cant just be stuffed on .... non GRAND XJ how to fish, (teach this i do) how....not spoon feed. do you need real instructions sure you do here are the real ones , no engines size stated so can be accurate. like many try here. the 4 liter? the older jeeps had no spring load for the SERP. and must be tensioned to 100 lbs force . here is the FREE FSM> chapter 7 covers this belt. page 29 it covers boht engines 2.5L and 4.) and with and with out A/C my guess is its 4L and with ac. so ill answer for that. there is no spring here like on new cars. sorry poster !!! i have a special tool to do this, the PS pump sets the tension, not IDLER 1 or 2. the PS on the one side has a huge screw adjuster just for this belt. here is the spec, on this SERP for those thinking all 4L engines from 1986 to the last, 5million made are the same they are not. watch out for guessers here, and for those too young to know ... see this lower screw, bingo , no springs here ! the 2 bolts above must be loose !!!

The serpentine belt runs all the external components (A/C compressor, power steering pump, alternator, water pump, and possible others). It has one pulley on it that is either spring-tensioned, or has an adjusting bolt. To replace the belt, you must release the tension of the belt by using a ratchet or belt tool on the tensioner pulley to take pressure off the belt, or loosen the adjusting bolt if that is what you have. The new belt must be routed correctly in order to fit properly and ensure that all driven components rotate the correct way. You are not saying what engine size your Jeep has, but I'm assuming the 4.0L six-cylinder. If that is the case, the belt routing diagram is shown below to assist in proper positioning of the replacement belt. "CS" is the crankshaft pulley.

93 is first good year for all jeeps, lucky you are. YJ jeep. which engine? ask for help not parts, jeep.com parts online shows all parts so there is never a need to ask that. ask why the starter is dead. (well what transmission) auto or stick? no noise means NO CRANK, no engines un cranked but my M/T fails hot and cold some times , good input , rare this. here. and 2wd too boot, very rare this fact. stated. ok. when a car does not crank what do we do. (easy to hard just like AAA tow does)

1. i wiggle key, at start position, crank now.?
2. i wiggle the shifter, in park, and crank (PRNDL switch issues)
3. same but move shifter to neutral, (keyon, foot on brake shift to neutral and crank, cranks now? neutral contacts good park bad.
4. next if all above fails, (all free to do) we next check battery volts. 12.6vdc i good, 11v bad, charge it or get a new one.
5. I then jumper cable jumper battery off runnning donor car, like AAA does. crank now? yes, battery has issues, common as nails that. No crank now, so.
6. I then hot wire the starter soleniod. keys in pocket, it does not crank the starter is bad. it cranks now the key line is bad or

A real FSM book, online, and free. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service click 93 jeep, click wiring. pdf page 64 shows your relay. see that the fuses need to be good and the PRNDL switch energizes the starter relay. the PRNDL ground the relay coil , the coil gets power from the Ign. switch and RELAY pin 29 goes to 12v cranking (11v typ) and the starter cranks. that is how it all works. if you have a volt meter all this is super easy, and no guessing needed. ever. if you buy a new relay and it dont fix it ,you will be back here.

This really can be one of two problems that I can think of off the top of my head. Either your wheel bearing is seized up, or the caliper on that wheel is seizing up clamping down on the rotor locking up the tire. I would think your caliper is frozen. You will need to remove the tire and inspect it. Take the caliper off of the truck and have someone step on the brake pedal. The caliper should clamp shut. Now take a very big pair of channel locks and rap a rag around the jaws and use it to compress the pistons in the caliper. If you feel a lot of resitance then you should repalce the caliper and the brake line on that side of the car. This should fix your problem.

physical or electric or ??

in most cars, if it even has one. is in the fuse box. 1993. first real chrysler car. and real engine controls by same with OBD1, good best older year car. RTM read the manual yet? the FSM ? chapter 8G is HORN, and horn options. page 2 covers the relay test. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service chapter 8w-11 show the fuse box. and relay , clear as day YJ is pdf page 90 (wiring) XJ is pdf 165, dual horns.

Check instrament cluster fuse. Brack light and check engine are independent.

Check ground and connector to the headlight. Master Tech Lee Ask Automotive Repair Questions

Has battery been disconnected? You have insert key in door to reset it. How are fuel injectors? I have '95 and replaced mine with rebuilt from MotorMan, Weidman, Mich

Are you sure that it is not a vent line? Most gear cases are vented.

most rubber hoses have a clamp or they are flanged..squeeze the hose at the motor flange and twist it some..it should pop out..

If you are talking about when you push the pedal you hear an air noise and the pedal is real hard to push then you most likely have a bad power booster. If your pedal is weak and goes low to the ground you most likely have a bad master cylider as well. Best to just change both. For that year model shouldnt cost much and not hard to install.

What have you checked so far ?Is it full of freon, and is the compressor clutch getting power ?

Might be your ecu computer is acting up and needs to be repaired. Search this site for ecu problems.