Top 10 1995 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

It's a simple circuit and I believe it actually runs the hot through the switch, so you could pull the door panel off, get at the two leads at the bottom of the switch and complete the circuit manually. How do you know it's a switch though? It's pretty common for the motors to go out, especially if the drain hole in the bottom of the door is plugged. Water gets in the door and shorts out or rusts the motor. The general way to remove a door panel is to get a couple really flat pry tools, like a putty knife and pry at the edges to find the clips that hold the panel on. Then using one putty knife on each side of the clip, pop them off. You can buy replacement clips from your dealer if you break any.

You might find that there is a small circuit board along with the switch, which may give credence to your "switch" theory. but you still should be able to isolate the wires for the motor.

Here's some more detailed instructions for removing the door panel .

speedometer cable? speed sensor or speedometer meter it's self! engine light on scan obd 2 to retreve codes don't gue$$

Hi, a few questions 1st. Did your mechanic check for engine codes? Is your Honda a v-6 or 4 cylinder?
The flashing D4 light indicates a possible transmission malfunction. You should avoid rapid acceleration until the cause of the light blinking is determined.
If you have the V-6, there is a diagnostic port to connect a scan tool to read any stored engine codes that have turned on the check engine light. This port is located behind the ashtray in the center console (most cars did not have this til 96).
If you have the 4 cyl engine, there is a service connector located under the dash on the pass. side. Inside the connector is what looks like a 2 wire plug should be attached. Take a paper clip, unbend it, and insert the 2 ends of the clip into the connector to 'jump' it. Turn the ignition switch to the on position (don't start the vehicle), and the check engine light will flash. Count the flashes, short flashes are for code #'s 1 to 9 (single digit code), a 2 digit code will be a long flash for the 1st digit, followed by a short flash for the 2nd digit. If there is more than one code, they will be separated by a pause. They will repeat so you can count them and write them down. Let me know what the code #'s are so I can help further. Curt

FREE and EASY methods to get your Honda radio UNLOCK CODE. (Dealerships usually charge)

Assuming you don't have the Anti-Theft Code and Serial Number that is found on the credit card sized Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card that comes with the vehicle at the time of purchase and is usually found in the glove compartment....

You have FREE options to retrieve that code by phone or on the internet BUT, the RADIO SERIAL NUMBER is REQUIRED (no matter what). (see bottom about removing ERROR E3)

***IF your Honda was made BEFORE 2001 the serial number MAY not be accessible without removing the radio from the vehicle.***

* TO GET THE SERIAL NUMBER (so that you can get the unlock code)

1. Get something to write with and on (you'll need it to write down the serial number)
2. Put the ignition key in and turn it until your able to turn your radio on (accessories position).
3. Then turn your radio OFF by it's knob/button (but leave the ignition key in place).
4. Hold down the preset buttons 1 and 6 at the same time.
5. Turn the radio on while pressing down both the 1 and 6buttons.(***IF your Honda doesn't have preset buttons on the radio then hold down the top part of the 'Seek/Skip' button AND the top part of the 'Change Disk' button instead.*** )
6. Write down the 4 numbers you see first and then 4 more that display. These eight numbers are the SERIAL NUMBER. This is NOT your CODE.
7. Make sure your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is handy to get the unlock code. (can be found on your insurance card, driver's side door jam, small plate on dashboard by registration and inspection stickers, etc)

* TO GET THE UNLOCK CODE (using the radio Serial Number and VIN)

---Internet option:

1. Go to https://radio-navicode.honda.com/ (YES, it's run BY HONDA and IT'S FREE)
2. Follow on screen instructions (Serial Number and VIN required)
3. Type in the 5 digit code into your radio. This will unlock the radio and return it to a functional state.

-OR-

---Telephone option:

1. Call American Honda Customer Relations (800) 999-1009
2. When the automated message starts 'Press 3' for 'Radio and Navigation Codes'.
3. Tell the Customer Service Agent you need your radio code. (They will ask for your name, your radio's serial number, VIN, etc)
4. When they give you your radio unlock code--WRITE IT DOWN and KEEP IT SAFE!
5. Type in the 5 digit code into your radio. This will unlock the radio and return it to a functional state.

* REMOVING ERROR E3

****If you entered too many wrong codes and got an ERROR E3 message displaying you'll need to do an additional step for even the correct unlock code to work.****

Disconnect your negative battery terminal (or pull the radio fuse out if that's easier for you) for 30 seconds then reconnect it and then the radio will say "CODE" again and you can put in your correct unlock code.

1995 Honda Accord's are not equipped with cabin air filters.

Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Timing Belt Diagrams for your 1995 Honda Accord 2.2L SOHC 4-Cylinder Engine. Plus Instructional and Directional Diagrams you will find helpful.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1995/make/honda/model/accord/1995_honda_accord_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

I'm having the same problem on my 1995 Honda Accord.  I hit a bump hard last night, and my dash lights, tail-lights, license-plate lights, and the bell which 'bing's when the door is open and the headlights are on all stopped working.  The fuse for "Small lights" under the hood was blown.  Replaced it, turned on headlights, and it blew again instantly.
I'm guessing that I have a wire crossed (possibly inside the bulb itself) in the dash somewhere;  I checked the taillights and license-plate liights already.

Good luck!  I'll let you know how my fix goes.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

engine check light does come on if your VSS doesn't work.
i suggest you use a car diagnostic tool check your car.
mvci honda toyota have a look.

This happens often on Fieros. It turns out that the clamp that holds the brake hose rusts. The rust presses against the hose, restricting it's flow. You don't notice when the brakes are worn and basically not working, but after repairs you get locked up or overheated brakes. Remove or replace clamp and or hose.