20 Most Recent 1995 Honda Accord - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Check fuel filter.

I hope you ready for some fun. I just did mine on the same car. first off DO NOT listen to the idiots on the internet. They are stuck for a reason. you can't just pull them off. unless you can bench press 4000 lbs. that is!!! you need to remove upper ball joints lower ball joints then steering arm. the whole hub assembly will then come off. this is assuming you already took the 36mm axle nut off. next remove the 4 bolts on the rear wheel bearing assembly. and take in to machine shop they will have to press out bearings so that you can replace your rotors. as long as your doing that you might as well have them put in new bearings at the same time. this is not a job you want to do again anytime soon. also I replaced the lower ball joints because my were somewhat bad. I am saving you a big headache here. they charged me 20 bucks per side for pressing bearings in and out and 20 more for pressing new ball joints in and out. new bearings cost me 40 per side. so all in all it cost me 300 bucks for everything. but at a shop ( I've already checked) this is a $750 job. Have fun!!!! At least you know you'll be saving money. by the way. the front axle nut is a 36mm torqued to 180ft.lbs. for your info. also wheel torque is 81 ft lbs.

get the ABS scanned.

Could be a bad sending unit, a short in the sending unit wire, bad or pluged pump

Junk it

this is covered in the FSM. 95 accord. did you google this? http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/accord/137349-1993-f22-crank-cam-balance-shaft-seal-hell.html are you sure its only the crank seal,???? gravity lies. as does windage effects. is this an A/T or M/T car, the latter makes the bolt come off easy (5th gear + brakes) the slush pump tranny NOT. so if you read the FSM it states." it shows photo of tire off and pulley bolt view and how the body ends just above that bolt, (see it?)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the accessory drive belts.
3. If necessary, secure the crankshaft with a flywheel holding tool.

For some engines, a special pulley holder tool is available to secure the pulley while removing and installing the bolt (refer to the illustration)." 4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. This bolt can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and allow it to soak overnight. Book forgets to see CCW direction on bolt (RHT) the bolt will take about 200fl/lbs of reverse torque to get off. 5 Carefully remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not pry it off. 6: Remove the key from the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure not to lose it. 7 -If necessary, remove the tool holding the crankshaft. remove seal with seal puller or screw trick ,etc. do not damage the seal base collar of the housing. DO NOT. is this your first engine seal work>? or done many , just need help with one honda.? if doing all work on a honda, did you ever consider a real FSM? why not get one, and read it, and all the steps and warnings. worst case. if you work engines, you know as you go , you see Omg, it not the crank it the cam leaking, or just a bad valve cover. fate happens, distributor seal leak too. with all FWD, doing a crank seal can be easy or hard. no access panels in finder or on some cars, 7ton pressed on pulley, (Dodge neons/ yuk) bolt spec: 1994-95 Accord and Prelude-181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) if the 90,000 mile timing belt is ignored, you will bend the head valves over, or worse... so...... all this , is a consideration.

its a dealer only answer. or lock smith the glove box operators guide is is clear,, NO? here, posted over 30 times. again ( this is by DESIGN. not accident) quoted 32 times now: to fixya.... true for all cars, really all modern cars, 2001 to now. about. read your operator guide) 2008 Honda opr.guide.(lost it, huh?) Accord. non satellite Radio. NAV system has own code. , all cars.... and older and all retro-fitted old cars. Quotes: Your vehicle's audio system may disable itself if it is disconnected from electrical power for any reason. To make it work again, you must enter a specific five-digit code with the preset buttons. Because there are hundreds of number combinations possible from the five digits, making the system work without knowing the exact code is nearly impossible. You should have received a radio code card that lists your audio system's code and serial numbers. {glove box find} It is best to store this card in a safe place at home. In addition, you should write the audio system's serial number in this owner's manual. If you lose the card, you must obtain the code number from your dealer. To do this, you will need the audio system's serial number. If your vehicle's battery is disconnected or goes dead, or the radio fuse is removed, the audio system will disable itself. If this happens, you will see ''ENTER CODE'' in the frequency display (on the screen on models with navigation system) the next time you turn on the system. Use the preset buttons to enter the five-digit code. The code is on the radio code card included in your owner's manual kit. When it is entered correctly, the radio will start playing. If you make a mistake entering the code, do not start over; complete the five-digit sequence, then enter the correct code. You have 10 tries to enter the correct code. If you are unsuccessful in 10 attempts, you must then leave the system on for 1 hour before trying again. The system will retain your AM and FM presets even if power is disconnected. {only on newer cars' General information on Honda and DIY: {the code can be obtained from any Honda dealership (you must give him/her your radio serial number (sticker off radio)"} or any locksmith with a license from..NASTIF Honda1 ServiceExpress (Same info as ISIS) Acura ISIS (Dealer version w/ advanced search) http://nastf.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=3462 call the dealer, or call any pro locksmith shop,and BINGO!

the left window motor> is dead.???????? wont run up or down by electric motor power? (factory option) or is at 100% manual windows, surely we dont know what you have. so say so.

2 speedo bad in a row, what's the odds of that. you get the gold star award !@!! but you posted a real car. and failed to say odometer does what.? keep in mine both instrument work off wheel speed. so ether or both can fail, and knowing which is a REVELATION. ok lets look, at alldata.com , i log in and see. what for 1995, (many stages of evolution, 5 ?) some honda;'s get specail parts with v6, got that? V6 with A/T? most 95, are all electric speedo and odometer (advanced design) and the PCM runs BOTH. and the VSS tells the PCM , speed, so if both are dead, then,. The signal from the vehicle speed sensor is used by the ECU as well as the cruise control and automatic transaxle control units. Accords and Preludes use an external sensor mounted on top of the power steering speed sensor in the engine compartment. The power steering speed sensor is gear-driven and controls the steering boost in relation to the speed of the vehicle. An electric pulser unit is mounted on top of this unit and is coupled to it by a small shaft. The motion from the lower unit is transferred to the upper unit; the resultant electrical signal is sent to the appropriate control units. one one is dead ,that IT IS dead. did you insert the diagnosic jumper wire and read out the PCM fashcodes that be first of both sensors died, and it will say VSS1 DEAD !@!!! if not, its not.

fsm or alldata.com did you look in the free section here. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ its in the manual. and btw , some things dont need dash removal so dont guess, RTM read the manaul. there are many sub models and options, that all effect this. why not post part that is bad. why not the symptom at the least (so can understand context) step 1. defeat air bags per FSM. or life can be short. (or get mamed)

can be bad cable, or bad speedo head. how do we tell that. well there are only 2 ways. 1: replace cable , and bingo? 2: or remove head, and spin it with drill motor (shaft on rear) and bingo head is quiet and no vib? bingo. in most cases by now most 95s; are BOTH bad. hint ,only turn the speed shaft in needle upscale direction. not in reverse. cable bad. cable kinked. head bad. (all cable systems)

Have you checked the speed sensor in the transmission ?

just it> not odometer? too?????????? is the CEL lamp glowing driving, yes, the get the CEL flash codes is the code for VSS failure, present? if car has cable speedo , the odometer dies too. they are one, on old cars.

Check the mass air flow or if equipped the map sensor.

you mean OBD2 and not OBD1 DLC port. right? in usa, easy not usa , there is not one. ill pretend this is USA post. in 1996 they all are here, but in 1995 only a short list of cars. and varies by Engine option. its very near the centerline of the steering column on all cars. only 4 honda engine made this grade in 1995 seen here clearly http://www.obdii.com/connector.html

what engine? in that 95 accord. lost engine power. hot or cold engine. even on flat ground. at any speed? does it have full power up hills, wide open throttle? ever give it a 60,000 mile tune up this decade?

bad compressor? (seizing) or or engine is so weak, at idle (lean), that it cant run your compressor. the reason for the lope is the ECU idle speed controls going crazy. id say, the ISC is a victim here.