1997 Mercury Sable - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check brakes --rear brake shield--recheck hubs

I'm assuming you are using the correct stock wheels for this vehicle. You will need to check the tracking/alignment on the steering to check it is all lined up correctly. The outer tie rod can be used to adjust the front wheel alignment and if fitted in the wrong position can cause the rim or tyre to rub when at full steering lock. SAFELY jack up the front of the vehicle and rest the vehicle on jack stands. Spin each wheel and listen for the noise you heard. You may need a helper to turn the steering as you do this. Remove a wheel and take a good look at the inner rim edge and inner face of the wheel rim. Look for scratches and other scrape marks. Do this on both sides. Refit the wheel and get your helper to turn the steering from lock to lock, the scratches should line up with what is causing the sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtLLr2x2N4U This is how you do it.

Check this post with the torque specs from fixya. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t26764072-intake_manifold_torque_1997_sable_v6

Sounds to me like the main engine fuse has popped
Usually a 30amp fuse
If fuse is ok then check the connection to the battery cable as well as the ground wires to engine and chassis
Problem will be there

Replace caliper with old brake pads put 1 bolt in place to hold together while taking a large screwdriver and prying caliper piston so that it compresses piston & block wedge to rear of bracket it should make enough room to install on new brake pads, the other way is to use a large c clamp put 1/4 pice of wood in between c clamp and caliper so you don't damage or Mar the caliper also check YouTube.

Have someone check your brake calipers for sticking and holding the brakes applied. This can cause overheating and they will try to stop the wheel, causing the violent steering wheel shake. Also have them check the constant velocity(CV) joints, which if bad can make steering stiff.

you have checked the fluid level right?

Nope. Get it towed without starting it.

The problem is electrical and I think the there may be an issue with the PRINDL display creating a short .

Your transmission torque converter lock up clutch is not unlocking, that kills the engine and is the cause of the OD light flashing.

lower volume in future.

It is part of/incorporated into the transmission range selector switch. The switch is under the hood on the transmission where the shift cable connects to the shift post. See picture

Check the cables. Did the test the battery under load?

brain box is out ?????? What problem are you having , what's not working ? Normally hooking up a scan tool to see if it will communicate . Checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes Etc.... Checking power and ground circuits to the PCM / ECM powertrain control module or electronic control module . Not brain box . If you are unfamiliar with this , do yourself a favor and take it to a qualified repair shop .

Standing in front of the engine, not the car. The left side is 1,2,3. The right side is 4,5,6. front to back Now stand in front of the car. Looking at the coil pack, the back side is 1,2,3. The front side is 4,6,5. left to right.

If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines. For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly. Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Take your car to Autozone, Oreilly Auto Parts, or Advance Auto and they will put it on a computer reader for free to diagnose the problem. You can then attempt to fix it yourself or send it into the shop for repairs. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

Blown fuse, bad relay or ect (engine coolant temp) sensor

Cooling fan fuse in the engine compartment fuse / relay box . The CCRM - constant control relay module ! http://www.bbbindustries.com/free_tsb.html go to this page an enter your vehicle info. under system - engine , subsystem - cooling fans ! Do you know what a CCRM is ? google it