I heard a loud pop, then the vehicle wont move in any gear.It then grinds when I try to put it in park.
It sounds like you broke a Constant Velocity joint (CV Joint). The pop was probably the joint breaking. When you put it in gear it's just spinning. Think of one of your hands as the transmission. Hold a pencil that would be the CV Joint(s) and axle, and use the other hand to hold the other end of the pencil. That's the front hub (part that makes the wheel turn). So you have ...hand, pencil...hand = trans, axle... wheel. If you hold the pencil firmly with both hands, and spin the pencil with one, both hands still move.
If the pencil breaks...the one not spinning does nothing.
So...The transmission is trying to make the van go, but the cv joint is broken, so the wheels aren't spinning. When you put the van in park, the transmission doesn't know the vans not moving. Therefore it's making the same noise as if you put the van in park while driving. If you must start the van and put it in gear to see if the driver's or passenger's axle is just spinning. Shut the van off, wait a minute for the axle shaft to stop spinning, and then put it in park.
Posted on Mar 02, 2010
How do you remove and replace a headlight assembly on a 1995 Mercury Villager?
This is easy. Lift the lid open. Look at the back of the sealed beam and you will see a clip and an o ring. Pull the clip up and pull wires back toward the driver's seat. Unscrew the o ring and firmly pull the bulb out toward the driver again. Note the 3 tabs on the bulb seat and realign the new bulb with those tab ( 2 bottom, 1 top). Replace with #9007 bulbs..do them both.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
how you take off the front bumber
have 96, 95 similar
Section 01-19: Bumpers
1996 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Bumper and Bumper Cover
Front
Removal
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
REMOVAL OF WATER PUMP ON 95 MERCURY VILLAGER
go here too http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/ Section 03-01: Engine 1996 Villager Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE SERVICE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Water Pump Removal Water Pump Removal Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedures. Raise and support the vehicle. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501). Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover (6019). NOTE: Make a note of the location of the one water pump stud/bolt for ease of installation. Remove the six water pump bolts. Remove the water pump. Installation NOTE: Ensure the mating surfaces between the water pump and the cylinder block (6010) are cleaned of any sealant material. Install a continuous 2.0-3.0mm (0.079-0.118 inch) wide bead of Gasket Maker E2AZ-19562-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G348-A5, on the water pump and position the water pump on the cylinder block. NOTE: Refer to the note made during removal for the location of the stud/bolt. Install the six water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft). Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft). Install the lower engine front cover and the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in). Install the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section. Lower the vehicle. Install and adjust the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the installation and adjustment procedures. Connect the battery ground cable. Fill the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure. Start the engine (6007) and check for leaks.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
3codes p0400,p0325, p1200
P0400 = EGR Flow
P0325 = knock sensor (Do not ever change a knock sensor, they don't affect anything and cost $600 to replace for absolutely no gain)
P1200 = I can't find this one. I think it's injector flow
report back on what you find.
Egr flow may be plugged egr passages or a bad solenoid.
--------------
1996 PCED OBDII-Villager
SECTION 1B: Description and Operation
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Operation
The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system (Figure 1 below) recirculates a portion of the exhaust gases into the intake manifold under average vehicle driving conditions to reduce combustion temperatures and exhaust gas NOx content. The amount of exhaust gas recirculated varies according to operating conditions and will be cut completely under:
The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system on the Villager uses the exhaust gas recirculation/evaporative emission (EGR/EVAP) control solenoid valve to provide vacuum to both the EGR valve and the EVAP canister when commanded by the PCM. If the exhaust backpressure is sufficient to close the EGR backpressure transducer valve, vacuum is sent to the EGR valve and allows EGR gas to flow into the intake manifold. If the exhaust backpressure is not sufficient, the EGR backpressure transducer will remain open and allow vacuum from the EGR/EVAP control solenoid to vent to the atmosphere.
The EGR system monitor, for OBD II regulations, uses an EGR temperature sensor to monitor the EGR system. The EGR temperature sensor is a thermister located in the EGR passageway. When hot exhaust gas is recirculated into the engine, the temperature at the EGR passageway increases. This increase is sensed by the EGR temperature sensor and a signal is sent to the PCM to indicate EGR flow. If the EGR temperature sensor does not detect EGR flow when commanded by the PCM after two consecutive drive cycles, the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will be illuminated and a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored. The MIL will be turned off after three consecutive drive cycles are completed with no malfunctions detected. The DTC will remain stored in the PCM memory until 80 drive cycles have been completed without the same malfunction detected in the system.
Figure 1: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagram
Item
Number
Description
1
—
EGR/EVAP Control Solenoid
2
—
Air Cleaner Housing
3
—
Throttle Valve
4
—
EGR Temperature Sensor
5
—
EGR Valve
6
—
EGR Backpressure Transducer
7
—
EVAP Canister
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Backpressure Transducer Valve
The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) backpressure transducer valve is used to control EGR. The EGR valve is operated by ported vacuum, but the ported vacuum will normally be vented off at the EGR backpressure transducer valve. As rpm increases, exhaust pressure increases and pushes on the diaphragm in the EGR backpressure transducer valve and closes the vacuum vent.
Figure 2: EGR Backpressure Transducer Value
Item
Number
Description
1
—
Throttle Valve
2
—
Vacuum Port
3
9D475
EGR Valve
4
9F452
EGR Backpressure Transducer Valve
5
—
EVAP Canister
6
—
EGR/EVAP Control Solenoid
7
—
Vent
EGR/EVAP Control Solenoid
The exhaust gas recirculation/evaporative emission (EGR/EVAP) control solenoid (Figure 3) is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The EGR/EVAP control solenoid controls vacuum to both the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve and to the evaporative (EVAP) emission canister. When the EGR/EVAP control solenoid is off (12 V signal from the PCM) vacuum is supplied to both the EGR valve and to the EVAP canister. When the EGR/EVAP control solenoid is on (ground supplied by PCM) vacuum is vented to the atmosphere keeping the EGR valve closed and no vacuum to the EVAP canister. The PCM will command the EGR/EVAP control solenoid on at:
Figure 3: Exhaust Gas Recirculation/Evaporative Emission (EGR/EVAP) Control Solenoid
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Temperature Sensor
The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) temperature sensor (Figure 4) is a thermister type sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust in the EGR passageway. As the EGR flow increases, the temperature increases. This process creates a change in the resistance of the sensor, which decreases as the temperature increases. The signal is sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) to indicate that the EGR system is working properly. If the EGR temperature sensor does not change resistance as the PCM expects on two consecutive drives, the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will be illuminated and a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored.
Figure 4: EGR Temperature Sensor
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve (Figure 5) recirculates portions of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to reduce the amount of the NOx released during combustion and to reduce combustion temperature. The amount of exhaust gases that are released into the engine is proportional to the load on the engine.
Figure 5: EGR Valve
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
I've looked what seems like everywhere and the colors don't seem to match what I have, which look factory, not alter by a previous owner. I have two connectors: one black, the other black and gray. On the black and gray I have: One Brown wire One Pink wire One Orange wire One Pink w/black stripe wire One Brown /white stripe wire One the black connector I have: One Dark blue w/black stripe wire One Lime green wire One Yellow wire One Dark Blue wire One Dark blue w/yellow stripe wire One Lime green w/black stripe wire One Yellow w/blue stripe wire One Gray w/blue stripe wire Thanks.
Yep!
Here you go...
1995 Mercury Villager Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Green/Purple
Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Radio Ground Wire: Black/Light Green
Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Radio Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Light Brown/White
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Light Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Light Brown/Green
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink
That's what they show for factory
K
Posted on May 31, 2009
can't get the crank pulley loose. is it left our right threads. i am replacing the water pump.
TURN CRANKSHAFT BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN. YOU HAVE RIGHT HAND THREADS.ENGINE TURNING CLOCKWISE.YOU NEED A STRAP WRENCH HOLD CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WHILE LOOSEN IT.BUT YOU NEED A CRANKSHAFT DAMPER REMOVAL TOOL.OR HARMONIC BALANCER REMOVAL TOOL.YOU NEED STRAP WRENCH TO HOLD CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WHEN TIGHTEN IT.TORQUE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 90 - 98 FT LBS. MAKE JOB EASIER.HAVE A HELPER HOLD STRAP WRENCH WHEN YOU LOOSEN OR TIGHTEN CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
1995 mercury villager will not start i turn the key and all the lights come on but no click no nothing.... my husband could get it to start by jumping the starter so he replaced the starter nothing he then replaced the starter relay nothing if we leave it sit for a few days it starts right up but shut it off and it will not start again what it wrong with it HELP
mcdevito75 her, My immediate thought is a dead or weak battery, but it could be a bad starter also, here"s what to do, inside the car turn the key 1 notch to the on position, note the dash lights, now turn the key to start and note the dash lights again, do they go dim?? if they do you most likely have a weak battery, if the dash lights do not dim, open the door so the interior light comes on, any interior light, try to start the car, if the interoir light dims, you have a weak battery, if it does not dim with the key all the way to start, check and clean the battery connections, and suspect a bad starter. Any electrical appliance can go bad very quickly. Also if the battery is2 years old, replace it.
Posted on Jun 18, 2010
Is this something I can replace myself? I have replaced the timing belt and water pump myself recently. Looks like it's difficult to get to.
not likely. You may have to remove the upper intake manifold for access.
go to site for picture of heater hose diagram
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
brake lights stay on all the time. tail light switch under the dash on the brake pedal will work if I depress it with my finger(tail lights will go on and off) looks like some plastic crumbled from some where up on the pedal bracket.but I cant find a diagram to see what is missing
Just had the same thing happen to our minivan.......went to the Nissan dealer, since the Villager and the Nissan are the same van, and they actually had the parts in stock. Tell them what is wrong and have them pull up the schematic. You need 2 plastic buttons that push in the holes by the brake pedal. It cost about $10 for the 2 of them.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
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