20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Passport - Page 9 Questions & Answers

this is a very common problem or so i have heard mine has been doing it for two years and its still fine. what i do is buy some gunk oil treatment or i hear seafoam works good too. put it in 5 min before oil change and it will clean the build up in oil passages and free the sticky valves then use mobil one full synthetic oil its much better plain oil wont help it ive tried. and the noise will go away untill its time to do it again. i usually get 4-5 months noise free then it will start again.

I work on a lot of cars at home. (retired). If I get a good answer for this problem I would like to sign up. Thanks

Removing a Fuel Tank for Servicing The procedure for removing a fuel tank varies depending on the vehicle make and year. Always follow the procedure in the vehicle manufacturer's service manual.
WARNING Wear safety glasses and do not use a drop light. Liquid falling on the hot glass can cause the bulb to explode. If it is accidentally dropped or has a bad switch or loose connections, it can cause a fire.

• Before removing the tank, remove the battery ground cable to avoid an accidental spark.
• Relieve the fuel system pressure, and drain the fuel tank.
  • Gasoline weighs about 7 pounds per gallon. A full tank could easily weigh in excess of 100 pounds. Attempting to remove it while it is full could result in a dangerous gasoline spill or an injury. Remember, gasoline vapor is extremely flammable.
• Raise the vehicle on a hoist, or lift the vehicle with a floor jack and then lower the chassis onto jack stands.
• Use compressed air to blow dirt from the fuel line fittings and wiring connectors.
• Remove the fuel tank wiring harness connector from the body harness connector.
• Remove the ground wire retaining screw from the chassis if there is one.
• Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank. If these lines have quick-disconnect fittings, follow the manufacturer's recommended removal procedure in the service manual. Some quick-disconnect fittings are hand releasable, and others require the use of a special tool.
• Wipe the filler pipe and vent pipe hose connections with a shop towel, and then disconnect the hoses from the filler pipe and vent pipe to the fuel tank.
• Unfasten the filler from the tank. If it is a rigid one-piece tube, remove the screws around the outside of the filler neck near the filler cap. If it is a three-piece unit, remove the neoprene hoses after the clamp has been loosened.

Typical location of a fuel tank's filler tube. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.
WARNING Do not heat the bolts on the fuel tank straps in order to loosen them. The heat could ignite the fumes.

• Loosen the bolts holding the fuel tank straps to the vehicle until they are about two threads from the end.

WARNING Gas tanks should be filled with an inert gas, such as CO2, before any welding takes place. Even if a tank has been thoroughly flushed of gasoline, the tank may still contain flammable vapors. Attempting to weld such a tank may result in an explosion.

every time a customer of mine ask that question is it worth it i alway reply to the same thing whant can you buy for 3000$ that gonna in good shape like our honda gonna be after the work nothing mush that our answer everything gonna be like new after brake wise if our brother in law can help you you can save a fortune there and for the shocks unless there leaking and jump like a frog leave them or go to a recker (SCRAP YARD )you may find some very good one ask the brother in law again or get them install by a shop but the timing belt is a most go to a shop for that brakes first timing belt after ans at the end shocks hope it help you if any other question mr.johnson dont hesitate pleasr if answer is good dont forget to rate it thank you and good luck pierre from montreal

running fine and that its dont start bunch full of thing not working looks like burn fuses double check them if you already did pierre

Explain "jared" - if hit hard enough - check SRS system - check factory security system [related to "beeping"?] - check for shorted wire near starter - just a few suggestions.

you replace timing belt can not clean them.if replacing timing belt you need a haynes or chilton repair manual so you can see location timing marks.

The crankshaft should have the timing mark on the crank pulley (Notch in the outer edge of the pulley near the keyway) It should align with the timing mark on the oil pump. (With the keway turned to about the 3 O'clock position.)

Align the marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the corresponding dots on the front plate.

If you are installing a new belt, it should have 2 solid white lines printed on it that you would align with the timing marks on the cams and a dotted white line to align with the timing mark on the crank.

It makes a difference which way you put the belt on. (Which edge faces the front of the engine.) Most, but not all brands of belts have arrows and the word "FRONT" on them to tell you which edge of the belt shoud face the front of the motor. If there is no mark to tell you which edge is front, the letters on the belt must be able to be read correctly as viewed from the front of the vehicle.

Sounds like you have a badly worn suspension component. Get this checked by a professional right away as it sounds very dangerous. Thats 40 years as a master tech telling you this. Do not ignore it.

1995 HONDA PASSPORT REPAIR MANUAL for the easy solution download the pdf file

check the joint where the shift linkage attaches to the shift shaft at the transmission....you either have a pin missing in the joint or missed the splines when making the connection at the shaft...........Make sure it is in neutral at the shaft and inside the car at the shifter before making the connection at the shaft.............

Go to www.reliable-store.com you will get all info and solutions there definitely

indicates a problem in the ignition/ engine management system possible a problem ECM unit so have it checked out

You did not indicate what sort of climate you live in or exactly where the carpet in the cabin was most wet... However, the most common source of water inside a car is a clogged HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) drain tube. This tube provides drainage for water condensing on the AC evaporator and any water that enters the HVAC system during rain storms. If the tube is clogged with dirt and debris the water drips from underneath the dash where the heat vents are ... onto the floor instead of dripping onto the road. So usually the wettest place on the carpet is the front passenger foot well. The drain tube is generally located on the firewall, low on the passenger side. You would probably have to raise the car to see/reach it. I am not sure exactly where the Passport one is ... they can be hard to find at times. Other possible sources of water are a clogged sunroof drain tube, leaking window seals, torn or missing door seals, and clogged door drain holes. Also ... buildup of debris (pine needles/leaves) where the windshield wipers retract in to can also block those drains which can sometimes cause overflow into the passenger compartment. After you find and eliminate the source of the water you will have to lift the carpet and remove the padding underneath in order to dry it. The padding holds water like a sponge and will not dry unless it is removed from the vehicle. Shop vacs won't get the water out of the padding. Even if the carpet feels dry the padding underneath may still be wet, and that is where mold and mildew grows. Helpful? Good luck on your troubleshooting

had the same problem had to go a shop up the street to have them loosen it it was the only was to get it off it then tighten up with a ratchet and drive home slow

Check to insure u have correct bulb in socket