1995 Honda Odyssey - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

When you drive, if you loosen your grip on the steering wheel, does the truck try to steer to the left or right? When you lift the truck, do the tires move in the same manner (parallel) or do they toe in or out or do the tires tilt in or out? Where do the tires wear: inside , outside, middle, cupping on the tread , ?

cause it is geared lower in 4wd

You must try to perfom key coding

It comes from the heater to the valve on the left side of the engine in the rear left side just follow it from the firewall to that point

they are easy , goto youtube and see how it is done post your question there ,

if it is turning over and no igition then it could be your timing

You go to a dealers parts dept Give them your Vin # & they will show you the part on the computer & you point to it I suggest you always bring the old parts with you

Plug wires on wrong ? Timing belt jumped ? Exhaust Converter blocked? They only last 12 to 14 years (maybe) Plugs Gaped correctly? Vacuum leaks-Evap,Exhaust,Intake,PCV !! Egr problem?

All you need is a simple alignment

Probably the gas lines are emptied. What you need to do first is to turn the switch On 2-3 times to make the gas pump to work and fill the gas line up to the injectors (do not start the engine), then you try to start the engine. Hopefully this helps you.

If it's front wheel drive your cv joints are bad. It should sound like a loud clicking almost grinding sound everytime you turn. They can be rebuilt but i think it's easier just to replace the whole axle. If it was a differential problem you should be able to hear it all the time not just turning. Differential use gear oil and the guy at autozone can tell you how much it holds and what type to use.

Recheck that there is no smoke particularly at first startup. I suspect the Valve Guide Seals are going bad and need to be replaced.

Is it worth risking being in an accident with no air bag? When SRS comes on, the air bags are turned off, until you find a problem & resolve it ABS is another unrelated issue,have to do with the braking system,should at least check for codes & see what's up In my world everything has to work as when the vehicle was new, regardless of age,not counting the radio I seldom use

WHAT COUNTY??????????????????????????????????? hot engine, cold or both?/// a key question WHAT ENGINE: ( usa list , ONLY) 2.2 L F22B I4 2.2 L F22B6 I4 2.3 L F23A I4 2.3 L F23A7 I4 the fsm covers this. hose thing.... all hose can be followed, unless its axle vents on 4wd cars. (they go no where, special) is surging the only symtom.? no engine stalls.? lack of power in any gear or hills. no misfiring? no flooding.? starts easy/? ok what is surge, that it really is idle controls bad or out of comtrol 1: idle controls bad. (isc dead?) 2: or engine is running way too lean, and ISC cant keep a grip on idle. easy huh? and #3 misfiring so bad the idle controls fail. are all fuses good? is the CEL lamp glowing , then goes out running engine. no , the scan it. or do the flash DTC codes trick. a good tech ,first finds out if the engine holds closed loop status hot. at idle, if not, he fixes that first. as he/she knows that idle is the last thing to work right, in EFI. one other way to get surge is air leaks (aka. vacuum leaks) if the engine (unsaid option) is MAP based, it will race fast with any vacuum leak, and it dont take much of a leak to make the ISC idle controller go nuts. so repost , hot/cold both questions and actual RPM numbers. we need numbers is the dash Tachometer missing. ???? and what engines in car. all lean engines surge. all ISC systems can surge if out of control , not all do this. just 1/2 if the ISC surges, it means its trying hard to gain back control. this is called a software servo loop. The ECU is programmed to hold rpm near say 800 RPM hot. and is very digressive in that role. I have a 91 car that will surge, with any vacuum leaks. (by design) depends on which engine.

how many miles? can be bad rings. or bad valve seals. or both. do a compression test then a leak down test, and bingo the answer. if both pass, the valve seals are bad. if not rings are bad, if the oil test for compression fails the valves them selves are bad, if the teaspoon of oil test , passes the rings are shot. read up on all compression tests. using google, or by any car engine book, one that tells you how to test for this. The leak down test, can even tell you which direction the leak happens using a rubber hose to your ear. i can hear air leak to crankcase, valve cover oil filler, oil dip stick hole, and to intake plenum and even hear it at exhaust ports. sure can. one the oil control rings on old engines can stick down and be near useless. stuck in the lands. seen many like that. Id use the 2 gauge to judge engine condition, if bad, its hopeless. (bottom end bad) if good, all tests. then the valve seals are bad. there is a way to change them head on car. using shop air , or other wild tricks.

air in the system it will blow back out of the breather hole on the top. this can be down to the pump fins inside the pump being worn or damaged.

HUH? Problem with 1995 Honda Odyssey Window wont go up in my 1999 mitsubishi galant none go up or down? what? what window? all or 1? check fuses if ALL.

double posted. read other post. what country are you in? cam marks or spark marks.? my wild guess, is a timing strobe light in hand,? why not say what you are doing? give a context : im fooling around? I just replaced the timing belt at 60k service . I just did a spark tune up and want to validate timing.....? just put on a new dizzy or head? or ? if attemping to set Spark timiing? you must first place the timing freeze jumper. or the PCM keeps moving the advance. honda has their own name for Freeze , SRS (see below) that is its #1 job (besides injection) ( iv no idea what engine options so) why not RTM. open the book turn to your cars, engine option and read. see that? possibles.......? F22B-I4 L F22 B6 I4 2.3 L F23 2.3 L or F23-A8 I4 (Inline 4) example of reading an FSM or online version.... just 1 example... ill pick one and random, i log in to alldata or mitchels. i pick 4cyl not V6 it says. If equipped with an automatic trans-axle, place the shifter in Park or Neutral. If equipped with a manual trans-axle place the shifter in Neutral. Make sure to apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. With the heater off and in the full cold position, start the engine and hold the engine speed at 3000 rpm, until the radiator fan comes on at least one time. To check the ignition timing, the engine must be at idle speed and at normal operating temperature. Make sure all electrical consumers (defroster, radio, air conditioning, lights, etc.,) are turned OFF. Locate the blue plastic Service Check (SCS) Connector, as follows: CR-V models: centrally located under the passenger side of the dash. The connector's has two wires; one is brown and the other is black. Odyssey models with 4-cylinder engines: centrally located on the passenger side, under the dash. The connector has two wires; one is brown with a black tracer, and the other wire is red. Connect the SCS service connector tool number 07PAZ-0010100 or equivalent to the service connector. A paper clip can be substituted for the tool by forming a "U" shaped bend in the paper clip and carefully inserting it into the back side of the SCS service connector terminals. The purpose of the tool is simply to connect the two wires together temporarily. Connect a timing light to No. 1 ignition wire and point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary. The red mark on the crankshaft pulley should be aligned with the pointer on the timing belt cover. NOTE: in USA, open hood look up see sticker see spark time spec The white mark on the crank pulley is Top Dead Center (TDC). Adjust the ignition timing by loosening the distributor mounting bolts and rotating the distributor housing to adjust the timing. Set as follows: 1997-98 CR-V models: 14-18deg at 700-800 rpm 1999-00 CR-V models: 14-18 at 680-780 rpm 2.2L/2.3L Odyssey 2.2L models: 13-17 at 650-750 rpm 1998 Odyssey 2.3L models: 10-14 at 650-750 rpm Tighten the distributor bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and recheck the timing. Remove the SCS service connector or the substituted paper clip from the SCS service plug. end quote.

alldata.com , log in and read the steps get a new belt, that one is bad now... get a gates belt and with their idler.then read the gates paper (instructions)better ? read Alldata.com or mitchels.is just $15 why not?YOU do know , right its and interference engine, and if wrongsay good by to bent valves, or 100x worse. never cheap out on any HONDA, or buy a new engine.http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

old post, but.... others will like it in same jam....you didnt try a new spark plug? after all spark plugs LOVE TO SHORT under pressure, !!!!!! has spark means ZERO to me.only TECHNIQUE has meaning, HOW? Done? (3 ways )?does your engine (displacement not stated) have a timing belt.did you replace it on time, if not FAIL! ( off topic, but very real)yes, YOU DO that, but , fate does rule the universe. (no guessing)the tests are easy, why fret? gee the compression test is 5min work. ? spark good,injector balance test shows, injector injects same as other 3 (long tests times say 1hr done right) can advice every step. on all.i POINT my IR gun to cyl. X, (dead) and see pyro reading of coldoops CYL X is in fact near cold. or fully. cold.i remove all spark plugs (read the paper in the box , with compression gauge $20) WOT testing only.i insert the fitting in to cylinder Xi crank until the the needle goes steady.150psi, 90 is bad timing belt , near zero is bad compression150 or more is normal, all modern cars.why wait?then if it is a flat cylinder, we don't ask why, we find out why.but in fact you can hear, what is leaking,valves or whatever. in fact I DO ! (junk car, or fix it logic)I have a $40 leak down tester, toolwith side tool i can hear the leak path (shop air, got shop air?)i can hear the leak in 3 places, head gaskets blow in up to 4 directions, far be it for me to guess.L/Right/F/Rearor the block or head is cracked, running pure water in the coolantis guaranteed, are you?water in the oil? green death to engine oil looks like chocolate milk shake.oil in the water (signs)see hissss tests here.see"You find gross leakage? discovered in test 13"http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.htmldo the compression test WOT, or all data is useless.WIDe OPEN THROTTLE WITH SPARK DEFEATED .im sure you have a new head now, right?