20 Most Recent 1995 Honda Civic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

undo the hose at the caliper then undo the hose at the steel line. there is a clip that needs to be removed so you can remove the hose from the bracket that holds the hose. you may have to heat up the steel line fitting to loosen it from the hose. be careful as if it gets too hot the hose can explode. you will need a 12 or 13mm socket to undo the line at the caliper and I think a 10mm wrench to undo the line at the other end of the hose. you will also need to use a 8mm I think socket to undo the bleeder screw to bleed the system.

Already answered.

Bad fusible link?

Could be bad install on water pump or wrong pump, Bad install on timing belt, colasping suction hose from rad to water pump. Could be a bad head gasket or cracked head. you did not tell us why you replaced the water pump. was the car running hot before. ? Check your oil to see if there is any water in it. would look like brown mud .. if there is water in it. Post a comment and let us know what you find.

check your oil make sure the crank seal is ok that u didnt spill ur oil and blow it up. then check the timing belt - you may not have had the tension tight enough on the timing belt and it may have skipped a bit causing it to not fire. i think thats the most likely.

17 mm bolt on side, near back of trans, by diff.

If you have that steady no starting sound-- engine is cranking but it won't start-- with this car , it is usually one of two things. It is your main relay 50% of the time, your distributor 45% of the time or your ECU the other 5%. You can do an easy test for your spark. If you get spark I would take a leap of logic and go get a Main Relay at the Junk yard for 25 bucks. They plug in right above your left knee in the drivers seat-- when you are sitting. Just behind the fuse box. You will get upside down and unplug it and swap it out. If you are not getting spark at your spark plug when you crank-- and you have already gotten a distributor you may need an ECU. Hondas Only will work with you to get it figured out. If you talk to them they will sell you the relay, if it doesn't work they will swap it out and you up pay for the distributor or ECU. That fixes the problem with those cars MOST of the time. Occasionally, it is the ECU or a combination of two of those-- but SELDOM more than one. I drive one of these cars and always have a backup main relay in the glove box. Real common, easy to fix problem with these cars. They will swap the Distributor out for an ECU as well. IF THEY HAVE IT. Pull your carpet back on the passenger floor, by the door, where your right foot sits as a passenger, and read and write down the top row of numbers and letters above the bar code sticker. If they don't have the ECU to trade you they may only issue a store credit-- No cash refunds. But they will help you sort it-- I promise. Ask for Meena. Search Results Also, knowing the DX, LX, EX or SI on these is helpful, as some of the other models are rarer, like VX or CX. If you have that info handy it helps. Hondas Only Auto Center Dismantlers Auto Sales

Bottom of trans, near end, 3/8" square like on rear diff plugs in trucks.

You need to check the connections between the battery and the car. Check both the positive and negative ends where they meet the car and attach to the battery.

Sounds like you need a new speedo cable .... first step is to get a repair manual. If you can remove the cable from the back of the speedo and have someone hold it while you are driving, if you apply light pressure to hold the cable in solidly, and then try to stop the cable from spinning, but not so much that you snap the cable yourself. The cable should spin while the car is moving forward. Once you replace the speedo cable the speedo and odometer should work again, if not it might be the speedo head, which spins the cable. Try to get a manual. Haynes is OK but the factory Honda manual might actually be the most accurate. If I understood this correctly you should be good to go but if you need further assistance feel free to holler back again.If the cable is OK but the speedo still doesn't work it is most likely the speedo guts ... used ones should be available for about $100 or so. The cable should solve your problem hopefully, making further work unnecessary.

Usually this is a vacuum leak. It also could be low on coolant, so the IAC (idle air control) valve isn't getting coolant to warm it up. The IAC valve itself could be the cause.

I never replace a distributor May have to-- if the housing bushings are worn I component test & then take them apart & just change the failed part You have to know how to stab it into the motor & know it is timed correctly & the wires are on right

change your map sensor and let me know. any check engine lights or codes?

It doesn't have an axle

Hi sorry if this sounds basic but how do you know the fuel pump is good, did you supply it with a permanent battery supply, when you turn the ignition on do you hear the fuel pump cut in, as the fuel pump may well be good but that doesn't mean it has a good supply, is this a petrol car? there is lots I could get you to check like the relay etc but not sure how much you do or don't know?