20 Most Recent 1987 Honda Accord - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check fuse possible blower failure

wow a post back , you are the gem here, nobody ever does. thanks ok some transmissions the trans end very hard to detach. so that leaves one place left as you found. but here is the FSM , id bet you will find vast answers in a real official book on exact car. i bet. Reward: get em. put em. on a memory stick and bingo, 87s for life. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

yes...Sounds like the shifter points are way off...to reach that you need to remove the center console the connecter in under the shifter...the other end of the cable feeds through the dashboard and connects to the tranny from under neath...

Have checked the fuel pump fuse how about the main relay. Have you tried checking and testing that? If you need instructions on how to test it let me know.

When you turn the key to access. II You hear the fuel pump run if you listen through the gas cap.

If the fuel pump is working I wouldnt assume it is a has problem yet.
I would start by checking spark make sure you are getting spark. Then make sure you are getting air. I would undo the intake pipe at the throttle body.

Once you done this let me know what happens.

but drives ok other wise???? a KEY point. yes. (i guess) i can tell you , its , 1: EGR stuck open. clean it. 2: ISC jammed, clean it. 3: or tming belt slipped. (hopeless till fixed, and power will be low all the time. 4 or tuneups never done. (spark , and filter parts) 5: is the check engine lamp out running?if not get the blink codes. short list, the long list is 50 points.

very old post, so my last for old empty posts on honda'sill guess, cranks perfectly. (flooding is it?, or timing belt slipped. and next it bent valves? or far worse?)is this and EFI car or a carb car? what country; what engine?A20 or B20 engine.? A16? I think 1986 USA got EFI (PGM-FI)cars ran longer outside USA MARKET, (each car as a market , mine is KA (usa)why not read the free FSM.under no starts. see it. its free too, keep it on a memory stick.http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

sound to me like a basic sloppy shifter, did you inspect the shifter and all parts associated?usually the synco dont stop shifts, only causes grindingunless, it is shattered. (rare that)it only matches speeds, so if cracked in half , you can shift bydouble shifting , like racers and truckers did for years, "crash boxes" RTMhttp://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

check, ?ok all relaysthe relay is just a coil (mag) and a switch.many relays have just 4 pins.most main relays have 2 pins at 12v. one on the coil and one on the common contactor pin (input)the ECU/PCM grounds the other coil pin, the mag field inside builds and the contactor closes. and the contactor ouput pingoes to 12v and the ECU then powers up.HOW?how to check it, is easy, use a voltmeter, (never lies , like other ways)any DMM , even that cheap one at walfart works great.set the dial to 20vdc.conn, black lead to car body, metal.conn red lead to the 4 pins, 1 at at time and key on. (no start)if the 2 pins do not have 12v(input pins) the fuse is blown or some dork cut the wires to install some , accessory.now see the ECU ground the othe coil pin, 0volts, the relay is now energized, (coil must not read infinity removed)now check the output pin on said relay, if 0v , the relay is bad.if 12v, on this pin, well , the relay is 100% OK.to work on cars, you must learn electrics first, then how relays work. there are millions of web pages on this subject, ok , i went to alldata.com (so can you)and that car has 7 pin, MAIN relay.black yell and blue black pins are 12v keyon.yellow wire is fuel pump (early cars have 2 relays in one)black is ground, if open , all is dead ! must be 0vfuel pump enable line is green-black (ecu commanded) 0v when active, most cars take cranking to go active.the blue-red wire from crank fuse. sends 12v to pump relay coilfor crank pump action. and last but not least is the yell-black wire, this wire runs the ECUand all injectors. this is 12v key on. if not check all coil pins on main.i answered in the generic and exact.old post. but lots of old handa's still ,all this is on alldata.com or at mitchels.

great question. (running engine , no less)1: that means the lamps in the brakes (3amps?) is overloadinga 50amp Alternator. (impossible nearly) but ???orwiring errors.loose battery connectionsshorted brake lamps or wires to same.id the wrong size fuse in the brake fuse box.? if yes, you risk fire.did you try all other accessories, on car, to see if too, overloadsthe alternator (loose belt?O)1: head lights.2: cab heater fan on max3: defrost heater in rear of car window.4: all at onces?if ONLY brakes? DO IT?, then remove all brake lamps. now.and re test. brakes. no lamps.all answers for a stock car, if car is hacked, all my answers are useless. (hacking is infinite) (alarm hacks, remote start hacks, cruise hacks. are common and a PITA)

In most cases it doesn't have a relay but ti will have a fuse. Check the fuse panel to ID the fuse.

brake switch may be bad.

IF no light check engine on instrument panel , you need to check the fuel pump and crankshaft sensor ..

If it is a hydraulic clutch, and not cable operated, there will be two cylinders. A clutch master cylinder will be mounted on the firewall next to the brake master cylinder. One steel line will go from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder bolted onto the transmission housing where the clutch lever extends out of the housing. Other than bleeding the slave cylinder, no adjustments are necessary on hydraulic clutches. Cable operated clutches have an adjusting mechanism to take up slack when the clutch disc wears. The adjuster will be inside the engine bay.

Possibly over heated do you have more details? With old age the oil needs to be swapped regularly. If your maintenance is up to par, it most likely lost(died) a component to your cooling system. water pump, thermostat, coolant like, possibly oil leak that has gone for too long. Check your fluids and ensure everything is correct. Inspect the engine bay, any active fluid draining beneath, if your ac was on keep in mind of condensation, Crank the car, any noise, Yes then the starter is good, check the voltage for any irregular reading. If its low may have an alternator problem, in which its not charging the battery. ORR you could have a bad battery. ... There is a youtube video on how to fix bad battery's if your a do it yourself type of person.. saves money too. As well insure the terminals are clean and have a tight connection if there still isn't a reading at all and you can not turn over the car. If your car does not start once more and you hear the starter, the battery is good, check the air filter. maybe something is blocking the passage way. Follwing that moves to the electrical portion.. Fuses and relays if you have fuse tester or you can see through the fuses start checking them. List of what numbers go to what Is in the covers to the fuses. Locations. ENGINE BAY #1 Drivers SEAT UNDER CONSOLE #2. Hopefully you figure out the problem! GOODLUCK!!p.s. hopefully someone didn't put anything in your gas tank ..:/

It should be located on the same side as where your oil filter is ,, look around near where your oil filter is and you should see a oil sensor that is screwed into your engine block ,,, if you have any problems with that give me an e-mail at [email protected]

it might be cuz the finder is bent

vacuum very important on this car number hoses & replace one by one. see how it runs. if problem continues check emission sticker & make sure the hoses r conected to the proper tubes.

there is a fuel injection module under the dash.if you,remove the module and check the circuit board it will have broken solders in it. our shop has fixed alot of those..a hayne smanual will show you how to take it out....sorry i do not reply.