20 Most Recent 1984 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

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Very easy to do. Take the old one off and you will see how easy. At the carburetor, the cable will be secured by a bracket. Unfasten it there, and then on the carb. roll the throttle back to wide open throttle, cable will be loose, lift it out of the groove it rides in and slide the end out of the throttle lever. At the firewall where cable goes to the gas pedal, there will be a rubber grommet that cable goes through. Just punch the rubber grommet out of the firewall.Now on the gas pedal attachment, many different ways to secure it. Some just snap into a hole on back of gas pedal. If you can't see how to disconnect, take the gas pedal off-usually held to floor by two screws-and turn the pedal around to see how the cable connects. Once disconnected, the cable can be removed, usually drawn out of firewall on the engine side.Good luck. Now the next time you have to replace it (like 25 years, !) you will know how to do it. Keep the old Honda running!

I would start with adjusting your idle speed.

Hi James, When the engine shuts off while driving, does everything on the dash go dead too? If so, you probably have a faulty ignition switch, it's pretty common for Honda's.

no

Well, typically you can do what you describe, however: If there is a problem with the rings/pistons/cylinder walls, then compression gases are getting past the rings. This causes heat damage and the cylinder walls need to be resized to the next oversize. If you do not do this, the repair will usually not be successful for very long, if at all.
Bore it out one size and you should have good results.

It sounds like it could be time for a carb rebuild. The float could be sticking, it sounds like it is starving for fuel. Be sure to check all your vacuum lines too. This is more for fuel injected engines but I would try Techron fuel treatment available at most parts stores. I usually don't believe in any of these products but have actually had good luck with Techron. You would probably need the smaller of the two sizes available. It's worth a try.

This is taking me back some...have not seen one of these for years......

Spec's are usually a sticker on the underside of the hood with timing and valve gap clearances.

On the crank pulley is a notch or pointer for TDC . On the front cover, next to the pulley, are about 4 timing lines . The hood sticker tells you the notch to line position for timing as these lines on the cover where painted different colours.

Being as you have no sticker...time it at warm idle speed with the pulley pointer/notch to the first line on the cover with a timing light.

To highlight the marks you can dab them with White Out or similar. Without a timing light you can only approximate the timing be rolling the engine forward while watching for a spark from the #1spark lead jumping to ground with an old plug in the end of the wire.

Another way is to drive and then stop to advance the timing at the distributor until you hear pinging on full acceleration from low rpm's. Then back off the timing a few degrees until the pinging stops.

A l-o-n-g time ago....we used to time engines with a vacuum gauge plumbed into the manifold down stream of the throttle.

Run the warmed up engine at 3500 rpm steady, with vacuum lines to the distributor removed and plugged, advance the timing until highest vacuum reading...usually around 19 to 23 inches vac'. Then back the timing off 3 degrees or 2" to 3" inches of vacuum and leave it there.

Road test for performance and pinging.

The input shaft on the trans should have no play. This will cause all kinds of problems including rapit wear. Because your having so much trouble it would be a good idea to do all of the inspections that nobody does. I will include them. I also hear rummers about after market clutch kits some I find hard to belive but after replacing clutch that many times I think I would put an OEM clutch setup in unless you find a good reason for the clutch to wear out that fast.

i assume its a carb motor. if so i would first check the vacuum box for broken or loose lines, if the problem isnt there i would look to see if there is a loose wire by your thermostat. if theres a wire ground it to the thermostat bolt. these have both worked when the same thing happened to me.

replace the ignition igniter module, that is a common cause of this. it is located on the outside of the distributor

My 85 did the same thing many years ago, ity was a vacuum box on the left side of the motor-I think- check out one of the honda forums...that's where I found it when I had my problems.

If anything with Honda's you wanna advance it and run decent gas. I used to advance it so far until it pings then back it off a little. Increased power AND gas mileage.

Vote for me.

You might want to check the engine for a vacume leak.Once the rpm's drop it may have a big enough vacume leak to not keep it running under a load.

These symptoms point me in 2 directions.

The first would be the gas filter. I came across the same problem this week on a 1996 Corolla. It would hesitate and sputter while pressing the throttle. The cause was a clogged gas filter.

The second area I would check would be the catalytic converter. If it is partially blocked it could cause these symptoms.

If there was a vacuum leak large enough to cause a problem you would be able to hear a hissing or whistling noise from the engine at idle.

Post back with any new info and hopefully we can pinpoint the trouble.

Good luck.

check spark plug wire and distributor cap

you have bad seals in the valves or bad piston rings.