Top 20 1999 Mercury Sable Questions & Answers

Replacing the whole lot would be a quick fix, but if you got water in it, it will take a few flushes to get it all out. You may also have internal electric solenoids that have shorted out. Diagnostics with a pro grade scan tool computer can diagnose this.

With strangeness like that, you can only diagnose using a pro grade scan tool computer. It can even record what is happening up to and past the point where it fails to react. All the things your changed are unlikely the cause. Once the engine is running, you know the fuel system is working. The engine being warm makes no difference to how the pump runs, how clean the tank is or how clean the fuel filter is. The 'let's try replacing this' method of auto repair seldom works and is expensive. It is likely to be throttle body, sensors or computer communication issues. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

first replace master cylinder the replace rear wheel brake cylinders.. Inspect front pads for non uniform wear, inspect front rotors replace if badly worn or scarred. You are dealing with 23-24 year old parts.

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Not fuel pump relay switch , the inertia fuel cut off switch . You vehicle does have a relay but it is located in the fuse box (BJB) battery junction box . IF you don't see inertia switch in the trunk look on front right passenger kick panel or behide it . What is the problem you having ? No start ? and you think it is because of no fuel ?

Possible Idle air control, simple to change on the throttle body

Hi Your symptom shows sign towards Starter motor is sticking or tooth in the flywheel is broken.

How do you know it's getting hot ? What is the Temp gauge showing ? Do the cooling fans work ? Have it checked for trouble codes an scan data checked . It was however the correct thing to do in changing the fluid and filter - that's the first suspect. No no it wasn't , the correct thing would be to take it to a qualified repair shop . Hooking up a professional type scan tool an viewing data , inputs to transmission control module , ECM/PCM - engine computer etc. The control module controls shift solenoids -which shift the transmission . You could have 1-2 shift solenoid shorting when getting hot . View scan data is the only way to see this problem .

The up/down switch toggles +12 and -12 volts to the motor. Remove the door trim panel and remove the connector to the motor. Insert the probes of a voltmeter and operate the switch. If you see power and ground toggle, the switches and wiring are good and the motor is bad. If you don't see toggle, then you've got a master switch or wiring harness problem. All power and ground goes thru the master switch.

Hesitation problems can be caused by a number of thing's on vehicle's with electronic fuel injection , not like the old days of carburetors where most likely it had a bad accelerator pump . Throttle position sensors (TPS) can get a worn spot that would act just like a bad accelerator pump . MAF sensors (mass air flow ) Can also cause Hesitation plus ruff running , bad fuel economy , a IAT sensor ,(intake air temp ) ECT - engine coolant temp. sensor can also cause this problem . Unless you want to replace all these parts i suggest you have it diagnosed by a qualified repair shop that has the electronic diagnostic tool to test it . ABS light on , DTC- diagnostic trouble code could be set in the EBCM - electronic brake control module . could be a wheel speed sensor getting ready to fail .

fluid level?

It appears to be on the transaxle housing. Two wire connector, note the wire colors. The picture maybe transaxle tail housing, at the moment, I don't know which side?

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How many miles is on it?? Don't waste the money for high mileage engines. It will just blow out the piston rings.. Smoke out the exhaust. leak oil badly. Time for another engine or upgrade your car...

starter is likely to gone

Probably Fuse, Relay, column switch. I'd start wth the fuse, then check the relay. (Assuming the driving beams work.) There should be a relay box under the hood, likely drivers side. If you're mechanical, you can swap the relay for headlights with another one of the same model/type. Swap temporarily, and if lights then work, just replace th relay for the light.

If the speedometer stops working the odometer stops also. Sounds like it is stuck in first gear. The RPM went up because the throttle was response to pedal but transmission not response. Check transmission fluid color. Whip off dipstick on a white paper towel look for gray if see any that is metal shavings and transmission is bad.

I had a similar problem with a Caddy; after inserting fuel spout, back it off slightly-SLIGHTLY-don't know why it worked, but it sure made my life easier. Maybe the angle of fuel flow changes? At any rate, it usually worked.

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No not really. You can upgrade to an 05, 06 for that money.