20 Most Recent 1997 Jeep Cherokee Country Questions & Answers

Brake Shoe: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Raise vehicle and remove rear wheels.
2. Remove and discard spring nuts securing drums to wheel studs.
3. Remove brake drums.
NOTE: If drums prove difficult to remove, retract brake shoes. Remove access plug at the rear of backing plate and back off adjuster screw with
brake tool and screwdriver.
4. Remove U-clip and washer securing adjuster cable to parking brake lever.
5. Remove primary and secondary return springs from anchor pin with brake spring pliers.
6. Remove hold-down springs, retainers and pins with standard retaining spring tool.
7. Install spring clamps on wheel cylinders to hold pistons in place.
8. Remove adjuster lever, adjuster screw and spring.
9. Remove adjuster cable and cable guide.
10. Remove brake shoes and parking brake strut.
11. Disconnect cable from parking brake lever and remove lever.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
2. If new drums are being installed, remove protective coating with carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner.
3. Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
4. Apply multi-purpose grease to brake shoe contact surfaces of support plate.
5. Lubricate adjuster screw threads and pivot with spray lube.
6. Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
7. Remove wheel cylinder clamps.
8. Attach parking brake cable to lever.
9. Install brake shoes on support plate. Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and retainers.
10. Install parking brake strut and spring.
11. Install guide plate and adjuster cable on anchor pin.
12. Install primary and secondary return springs.
13. Install adjuster cable guide on secondary shoe.
14. Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
15. Install adjuster screw, spring and lever and connect to adjuster cable.
16. Adjust shoes to drum.
17. Install wheel/tire assemblies and lower vehicle.
18. Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.

Inside the fuel tank attached to the bottom of fuel pump.

guess, here in net bunny land.? sure, that is coolant lose. the gauge can measure air temps so goes goofy. all do with air there. so find and fix that leak. its a pressurized system 14psi, so any leaks will be very serious.

2 causes on all jeeps.vacuum leak big time.orISC stuck open.all leaks cause that. really the ISC is a vacuum leak when its stuck openso is only one cause.the engine can not run with zero air supply.yours has TOO much air.there are other causes.stuck throttle cables.stuck open throttle valve (clean it)all are same, vacuum leaks. all are.alsoin usa 1997 we can scan it with any scan tooldo so.1998 in canada.the scan tool may show what is wrong.1: map readings wrong.2: isc , controls dead. or wrong.3: TPS gross errors.if in usa, (nobody ever says) then scan it first.on a car this old.vacuum hose cracked,ISC stuckTV valve underside packed in CRAPP.clean it.see this gunk, it can block open the TVand it sure will race (idle out of control = race)http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Show/images/TB-bad-back.jpgit's easy to detect this,(TV failure)while at 3000 RPMopen hood,put hand on TV bell crank (at cable)push it closed, if idle drops BINGO TV GUNK citythe tool is cheap. (OBD2 scanner)you can barrow one from any friend that is car savvy.or rent one.or drive to and ASE shop in USA and say"mr idle out of control scan it." please.but 3000 rpm is too fast to safely drive.!so tow it , or use the tow cash saved, to buy your fist scan tool. (it pays dividends for life)for cheap $100?get the innova 3160, I don't sell them.it's best bang for buck tool; usa, 96+History of 4L, (i run V6s now) 5million 4l made.my first 4 jeeps did this every 20k milesuntil i learned the fix.my 4L all raced.(dove the over 250 miles each)i removed the ISC stepper motor.and cleaned it and now it's unstuck,there is trick to fix it, ask)ISC = idle speed controller.when idle is out of control, this can be it.if you have a huge vacuum leak the ECU closes the ISC 100% and stick there, and can not closeover 100% and so idle now is out of controlall jeeps can do that. everyone, 1988 to now.

who made coil (off ebay from china with no name?0 who? and what partnumber. this car (usa cars) 19978 have EFI system. and the coil dwell time is fixed by the ECU programming so if you use the wrong coil it will smoke the coil or the ECU or both. a very very expensive error that. its not 60s ford, it's EFI now.

Try replacing spark plugs and battery, check the distributor cap.

97 wrangler right? CJ ended in 86 (last year) 97 TJ, you mean, or was posting to Cherokee correct all along./????? factoid: The Chrysler Corporation bought out AMC in 1987, shortly after the Jeep CJ was replaced with the AMC-designed Jeep Wrangler or YJ. test the fuse, looking only finds the ones blow to H3LL they can in fact just crack a bit. and are in fact bad. use any DMM or any ohmmeter, "resistance Rx1 or RX2 range , low range) 0 ohms good, , infinity bad. only that works. every time. lets read the FSM together. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service wipers first. USA not export. Front wiper not rear. ok>? page 8w-53 wiper schematic. fuse 2 and 3 must be good. then fuse 14 front wiper ,fuse 12 is rear if the fuses are good, (truely) we never ohm fuses we use VOLTS on both sides of fuse, volts never lies. then what is bad, easy bad wiper switch, motor or ground to motor. the voltmeter again wins the toss and if no 12vdc to motor then the switch or wire are bad. if you have 12v to motor then motor is bad , if ground to motor is no cut. now windows. what windows, are then not crank windows or zipper windows? i think you posted wrong car,,

Synchroniser is worn out. Repair requires disassembly of transmission. You can shift more easily with a worn synchro if you match the engine rpms to the transmission input shaft rpms when you shift.Also could be that it just needs a clutch or clutch adjustment. Check to be sure clutch reservoir has enough fluid.

Cam shaft position sensor, if no, replace crank shaft again, some sensors are faulty brand new... Paper doesn't wear off sensor correctly.

starter motor jammed/bad connection

there is no spark. that be it. is the ASD relay dropping out, for any of the 8 reasons did you fail to use a scan tool and see why??????? you broke on of the 8. (less on 97) this page is all ways. all years. http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

What fuse?

This is due to a vacuum issue. The vacuum created by the motor is used to operate the actuators that control the direction of the air flow. When you accelerate you are creating more vacuum which in turn creates more in the actuators causing them to pull harder so therefore the desired setting is changed. Check your Pcv valve and make sure your hoses aren't dry rotted or leaking elsewhere, which may impact overall vehicle performance. Hope this help explain what's going on

good question... Fan, which fan? 1: heater fan (blower) 2: front A/C condensor fan 3: engine coolant fan. ???????????????????? i must guess engine option, so will guess, 4.0L I-6 why do you ask, i can tell what problem you have ,unless a symptoms is stated, is engine overheating? the 2.5L and 4.0L have electric fans with the A/C option and run by different rules, with no A/C option the 4L uses a clutch fan. chapter 7, page 8, FSM. .http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service did you use a scan tool to see if the ECU, detects electric fan issues. it does do that. page 19. and the 2 fuses? same page, same chapter. the same chapter reveal the trip on , temperatures. now for a jump to how it works page. chapter 8w , wiring, page 20 index. 8w-42 fan motor relay. 42-9 or PDF page 213 the answer is there. the fan is totally operatered by the PCM, or ECU. the ECU closes the relay to the fan any time the ECT shows too hot. the ECT is a PRIME sensor to run EFI, knows coolant temps at all time. so there is (was) a need for and switch or fan thermost the PCM know the temp and closes the relay on demand. the PCM has trip table,. the fan activate rule. so if hot wiring the fan fails, the fan is bad if the 4 voltage to the fan relay are good the relay is bad if the fuse are blown the relay will no get voltage power. if the PCM fails to ground the coil on the relay that means the PCM thinks the engine is cold, is it? if the coolant is cold then the the termostat is stuck open. see how symptoms , prove what is going on, is engine overheating, ? wiring 8w http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service if the engine is overheating, we test the fan, if dead. the fan comes on the fan comes on by 4 rules, the A/C on or not. ill answer for a/c off, lazy fan comes on at 218F fan trips off at 199F the coolant thermostat is 195F. so the test for the fan is to idle until the coolant hits 218F and note the fan coming on, that is the test, if it fails in any way we diagnose it with a simple voltmeter how is that for an answer. if you have sympotms , do post them so we can work the real problems.

double posted and still not one symptom tested. does car start and run ? or stall ,or what.?

shoe drops, does it run? 97 is OBD2 in usa, so why not do a real scan, the blink codes do NOT tell all going on. you could RTM here, read the manual here, the FSM. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service 34 Dead spark (primary side) DTC errors (P0351) is it a no start, cranks ok."? does the ASD relay drop out? is there spark for 2 seconds cranking, and ASD drops.? it seems the ignition coil is bad or unplugged. (low voltage side) but doing a full scan , while cranking tells more, (nostart) or running......??????????? tells way more.

fuse, check all fuse for radio and or amp.