20 Most Recent 1984 Jeep CJ7 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

What do you mean will not "SMOG" Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

If it has the 4.2 engine they say it takes the group54 if its the 2.5 engine it uses the group 55 but i would use a interstate or another brand and use group 56 like a interstate megatron # MT 56.

yes, you can drop the gas tank by removing the straps.

Honestly the best advise I can give you is pick up a Chiltons or Haynes manual for your Jeep. It will have complete wiring diagrams, troubleshooting, and lots of helpful info on fixing the Jeep. You will thank me later because I guarantee this isn't your last wiring problem in the Jeep.

you dont need a diagram, all you need is a test light and someone to push your brake pedal.

probly drive axels?? check them out

try to check ignition switch or replace it

25 TO 28 FOOT LABS

I suggest you get yourself a haynes or chilton manual and do some testing of all components. Do the easy stuff first, changing the cap, rotor, plugs and ignition wires. Also change the fuel filter and make sure the air filter is clean. Do a simple spark test by removing one wire from a plug and sticking a small screw in the end where it goes onto the plug. while running, hold the wire so the screw is near the block. It should be able to jump a half inch gap with no problem and when held closer, should have a good snap to the spark. if not, do other tests for coil or just replace it.
Regarding the noise, likely you have an exhaust leak somewhere. You need to look to find that.

The way I've always set the timing in situations like that is either by vacuum or ear. If you have a vacuum gauge, hook it up to a manifold vacuum source and adjust the distributor for maximum vacuum. Then, ****** the timing until the vacuum falls 1" (to ******, turn it in the same direction the rotor turns) If you have no gauge, set it to maximum rpm's and then ****** until you just hear the engine speed go down a little bit. Not exact, but I've done it. If it pings after you set it while driving, ****** it a bit more.

it is attached by the transmission mount,it cannot be bolted without the rubber mount

1. Disconnect battery ground cable and drain cooling system.
2. Disconnect heater core hoses.
3. Disconnect damper door control cables.
4. Disconnect blower motor electrical connector.
5. Disconnect water drain hose and defroster hose.
6. Remove nuts retaining heater housing assembly to instrument panel. Remove heater housing assembly by tilting heater downward to disengage it from air inlet duct and pulling toward rear of vehicle.
7. Remove heater core from heater housing.
8. Reverse procedure to install.

Don't have a diagram for that one but I'd begin by checking power and ground at lights and power on the "out" wire from the switch, and work towards the middle. Also check power distribution center and see if there is a fuse, relay or both for that.

1. THE STEERING GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT TOO LOOSE OR SHAFT AND OR BUSHING BADLY WORN 2 .EXCESSIVE GEAR WORM END PLAY DUE TO BEARING ADJUSTMENT 3.STEERING LINKAGE LOOSE OR WORN. 4.FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED. 5 STEERING ARM LOOSE ON STEERING GEAR SHAFT. 6. STEERING GEAR HOUSING ATTACHING BOLTS LOOSE. 7.STEERING ARMS LOOSE AT STEERING KNUCKLES. 8.WORKING PINS OR BUSHINGS. 9.LOOSE SPRING SHACKLES.THIS IS 9 POSSIBLE CAUSES THAT WILL CAUSE STEERING TO BE TOO LOOSE.

depending on driving habit 12-18

Exhaust manifold gets very hot...If any oil, coolant or moisture gets up there, it will boil before disappearing. If the vehicle is running well, I would not worry about it too much but would try to find whatever is getting on there and stop it from leaking. (very slight oil seepage is normal but you shouldn't have any excessive leaks of any kind)

The first thing to do is make sure that the problem is not the choke butterfly. Make sure it is opening all the way because a partially open choke can mimic improper idle screw adjustment, letting it run rich. If the choke is good then you will find the idle adjustment screws at the front of your carb. They are under the float bowl almost touching the intake manifold. This is easy to screw up so be careful and take your time. Turn both screws equally, the same way and the same amount. Use 1/4 turns and try running the engine after each 1/4 turn. Rev the engine up 2 or 3 times and let it come back to idle.If it stalls then turn it up a bit so it doesn't. You may have to adjust your RPM if it idles to low at the throttle linkage. There will be a screw stop there for that purpose, turn it in to speed up and out to slow down. It's a trial and error exercise even for professionals so take your time. Hope this helps.