doesnt mean its the computer system--that cud be an egr valve-dirty throttle body or idle motor------ignition components like ol plug wires or failin fuel pump------even vaccuum leaks
hi valve covers are never more the 8 to 10 nm newton meters start in the middle one across from each other then criss cross one on the top right then to the left bottom ,then top left,right bottom work your way out till they are all done cant be too tight or it will squish the gasket and cause leaks danny
Chances are your Distributor is going bad but without troubleshooting, it could be a fuel delivery, Engine Control Module issue also... But if it can not be duplicated, then I would start with replacing the Distributor. I have replaced over 100 Distributors for the same Exact Reason after testing and it was the culprit EVERY SINGLE TIME.
But remember, it was after I did some testing first to ensure it was not a blocked fuel but if it stops jerking @ 3100, then it is Electrical and then you are down to the ECM or Distributor and since I know they have a problem, that is where I go. A Used one will get your by but if you are planning on keeping your car, then a New one is $200
Question edited for clarity.Question moved to Honda Accord.Duplicate post deleted. Refresh page to see your post. CTRL+F5.Check out the images. There are lots of vacuum hoses.https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+honda+accord+vacuum+hose+diagram..
You got the Wrong Information! Go to Wal Mart and Purchase a "Bulldog Security Keyless Entry" System for your Car. It will cost you a Quarter of the Price and is Just asw Reliable as the Factory Unit! Got one on My Truck with Remote Start also and it works GREAT! Should cost about $50.00 Bucks or so.
With extensive experience in this model I would say check the fluid condition and level. If the transmission fluid is up to level and red, not burnt, then it is likely due to wear of the clutches and will need to be rebuilt to resolve the issue. If the fluid looks dark you can try flushing it. If I can assist further, reach me at https://www.6ya.com/thericepatch
Check your trunk drainage holes for debris and check your door gaskets. If it is the drains, the water can back up and creep through the back. If it is the gaskets it could be coming right under the door and onto the floor.
Does it only happen when you use the brakes? It could be a warped brake disc or a fault in the braking system. TCS and ABS use the brake system to operate and a fault could drag on the brakes killing your acceleration. Get it to a good mechanic soon so he can check it isn't a serious problem.
Have you checked all the relevant fuses for the SRS system? That would be a good place to start. Accidentally shorting out a circuit while checking for power during the install could have blown a fuse.
Did you buy a plug and play wiring kit for this install? If you did, I would try unplugging it and disconnecting a battery cable for 10 minutes. Reconnect the cable and see if the issue is still present.
If you hard-wired the unit in yourself, I would double check the wiring to make sure you haven't tapped into a wire in the SRS system, which could trigger a code.
don't waste money in buying a transmission
It will be cheaper to take it to an accredited auto transmission specialist for a proper diagnosis and quote
indicates a TR sensor ( transmission ratio sensor , VSS sensor or a Transmission control sensor --possible wiring and connection problems