20 Most Recent 1997 Honda Accord - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Make sure the broken mast is in the same state as the replacement mast (most likely fully retracted). There will probably be two connections on the unit, motor power and radio signal. Examine the latches on the motor power connector to see how the work; most likely you have to squeeze in a pair of plastic tabs while pulling on the connector (don't pull on the wires!) in order to unlock the connector. Check the gasket around the antenna base. If it is hardened, and the replacement antenna does not have a good gasket with it, apply an automotive-grade body sealant or caulk to keep water from getting into the car body. (Many of those I've seen use a rubber base without a separate gasket; often this is hardened and will not seal without help once it's been removed.) If the radio cable has a screw-on connector, put it on snugly finger tight. Cranking it on with a wrench may break the terminal inside (I've seen a number of TV tuners destroyed this way). However, most car antenna connections I've seen resemble over-sized phono plugs and jacks - push on and pull off. Often there is a protective sleeve or boot over the connector; you may have to pull it back along the cable first. Again, pull on the connector, not the cable. If that doesn't work, it may be a bayonet-style connector that you have to push in and rotate a quarter-turn counter-clockwise, then pull it off (I don't recall ever seeing that on an antenna, but it's mechanically possible).

Check the main starter fuse or the useable link on the battery cable to the main fuse box

Check the are four fuses left upper side (inside the engine), the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine

problem is in the hydraulic clutch system low fluid indicates a leak at the slave cylinder and not holding pressure indicates a leak at the slave cylinder or in the clutch master cylinder If the master cylinder and slave cylinder have not been replace in side 5 years ago , the have them replace by a specialist brake and clutch shop at this point there is nothing wrong with the clutch proper

Sounds like a bad wheel hub. Or it could be just the brakes. Can you tell which corner it is coming from? Can you jack up that corner and spin the wheel? Wheel hub job about $400 brakes about $200 or less. Good luck

If it's fuse 36, it should have a 15 amp fuse. Do not confuse this fuse with the radio backup fuse, which is 7.5 amps but runs a lot of other circuits. Put in a 15 amp fuse. If it burns, the lighter may have a short. See diagrams at link below. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4576

could be the head gasket has gone take out spark plugs and check there condition and look for water in the piston, water and fuel dont burn well. as you have done an oil change it may have gotten into the oil but its harder to tell with new oil, as water will sit on the top of the oil.

Have you had the master cylinders replaced? Mine made this exact noise and they replaced the master cylinder.

You can usely find the parts on eBay easyer then the regular parts stores...I looked for these before...they are ready available...

Doesn't matter if you're looking up at the petcock or down at it, it turns counterclockwise. You have to visualize looking straight on to the petcock as it fits into the radiator, and rotate the petcock counterclockwise relative to the stationary radiator.

Try cleaning all battery terminal connections. A little corrosion can prevent it from working properly. Probably need to take the clamps off the post and wipe it out/off, the rub it with some fine sand paper. All connections should be good, clean metal to metal. If there is rust, sand it down where the metal parts touch so it's clean. Sounds like a battery connection issue since it seems to run fine once started. Had a similar issue with an older nissan I had. Battery post corrosion was keeping the power from getting to the starter.

Good answer from JonSnell Electronic... The reason it is a good answer: Your TEMP GAUGE is only reporting the news (not making it). Any leak or defect (cold pressure tester) will inhibit OPTIMAL PERFORMANCE (which is exactly what is needed in a traffic jam) Your car (and most cars) have a system built in to allow for when the FORWARD MOTION of the vehicle is NOT ADEQUATE air flow to cool the radiator.. The subsequent rise in temperature should trigger a thermal switch (see below) and electric FAN (below) should come on to augment the AIR FLOW... Check both electrically. Free Technical Service Bulletins and wiring diagrams are available from BBB Industries (registration is required s these are real documents You need to be looking here BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products Hope this helps!!