1996 Honda Accord - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

then replace it

if you dont have your radio code then we need to get your serial number, there 3 ways to get it.
* First try looking in your glove box for a sticker which will be a 7 or 8 digit number (your serial number) if its not there, then try this - With the radio off hold in buttons ' 1 ' and ' 6 ', while holding those in turn on the power button, that should give you your serial number,
* If that still dosnt work then you will have to pull the radio out of the dash and get the serial number off of the back of the radio.
* Once you have your serial number contact your local honda dealer and tell them your situation and they will be able to give you the code to unlock your radio.

Also, you will have to contact your Honda Dealer. The original selling dealer may have the code on file. If not you will have to remove the radio and get the serial number of the chassis. With this serial number, any Honda dealer can provide the correct code. There is no other way to unlock the radio than with that code.

Good lukc (remember rated this).

has it had a tune up. spark plugs ,wires and rotor and distributor cap. Are there any codes on

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few . reliable-store let me know if u need help thanks

wont hear pump check and test the sensors --have scanned for a trouble code which can narrow down a problem --also check and test hubs / wheel bearings

yes i believe both engines are f22b2 s and should be the same.

D4 is a transmission problem. It wouldn't cause the car not to start. If you don't hear the pump coming on when the key is turned on, Most likely the pump died. Could be the fuse or wiring also. Check grounds. Both could be a bad ground.

Usually this is caused by bad connection on one of the Battery terminals. First thing to do is remove Bat terminals and clean them thoroughly Also check the connection of the big bat cables to the connector. They have a tendency to corrode and fail. If so new connectors are available at any auto supply. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

My thought is to check and clean anything that has to do with idle air system. How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes?

The oil light sensor in the back of the engine around where the oil filter is located, and also check if the wire was not plug in tight.

Strange, but check fuses #1, #4 and #9 at the fuse box left of driver's side. Wonder what happened too. Good luck.

P1705: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit. So you changed the switch but didn't fix the short in the circuit. Check the wiring harness or connector for a short. Follow the harness and look for chaffed insulation or rubbing.

cranking is turning the engine over from you misinterpretation of the term the problem is that it is cranking but not running if that is correct then yes the cam shaft position sensor may very well be the cause of the not running at times as it controls the ignition and injector operation , the same as the crank shaft position sensor could be a loose connection that has now come apart or the sensor has finally reached a point of failure that it needs to be replaced

It sounds like a fuel problem try changing the fuel filter if it has never been changed before that could be your problem

no fluid in the clutch reservoir due to a failed clutch slave cylinder time to replace both the clutch slave and master cylinder

Check the lower gear selector solenoid pair, It is easy to remove and clean. Front right passengers side of automatic tranny, 96 to 2002 Civics and Accords and CRV. Whack it on its face a few times and blow it out with a compressor. Use a pencil and a rag to keep from losing all your fluid when you take it off. Check the sound of the click with a 12 volt battery. Sometimes the solenoids get stuck if the fluid gets varnished or if it sits too long. The upper solenoid pair is not so touchy. Bottom solenoid will sometimes prevent starting out in first and will go straight to 2nd or 3rd from start. Also some creep in neutral.

Cv as in cv joint? Look around the wheels for a dangling connector near a c.v. boot.

indicates a problem torque converter clutch servo/solenoid check that the wiring harness to the transmission has been properly reconnected after the repairs run the fault codes as well

Do the following

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake