20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Accord - Page 9 Questions & Answers

This has become an increasingly common problem with late models. There is a VERY specific drive cycle that must occur before certain monitors will run. It varies from system to system usually. Usually starts with a cold engine start-up, then very specific accel, and cruise parameters, followed by a closed throttle decel, from highway speed without using brakes. Until these specifics are met, the monitors will remain incomplete.

Sounds like the motor gave out found a place to buy the part new and very very cheap it's Geek Parts.com.

Left side of dash, to the left of your feet, and there are 2 under the hood, a big 1 right rear area and a small ABS fuse box in the same area.

I don't know why your mechanic was at the shifter! Your brake switch is at the brake pedal. Look down above the brake pedal you'll see a plunger style swith, now either you switch popped ou or it just needds to be replace. to see if it just popped out of adjustment look athe the plunger to see if it is completly pushed in if not reach up behind the switch and pull it towards the brake pedal if it moves in and the plunger is fully depressed. verify that the brake lights are off, If not replace the switch.

I would probably first start off by cycling the key from off to on back to us anytime listening for the fuel pump to kick on and shut off. This would be called priming the fuel pump and creating pressure in your fuel line once you cycle do it 2 or 3 times go ahead and try to start it. If it starts up you may have a plug fuel filter or a week fuel pump. That's just for starters. Otherwise I would check your spark and spark plug wires the boots for conditions cracks in the boots. Oh and also check to see if there is a check engine light on your vehicle. If its a sensor or something of the sort like a crankshaft position sensor that could be causing it also if its going bad. A check to see if you have a check engine light and if you do then you will need to go to your local parts store like advanced or autozone and have them pull the code and read it. It could tell you what the problem is. This your suggestions and give you just a place to start and your search

is it getting fue ?l u only need three things spark fuel and compression ill bet ur missing one of those

the air control heat knob needs removing to determine if its the knob itself, this will just pull off, look at reverse of knod and look to see if the center locating pigot is worn "round" or broken , if this looks ok then the panel housing the knob controls will need removing and then check if the heat control wire is in place, if so trace this wire ,this is a bare steel control wire not an electrical wire, to the heater box lower dash behind the control panel and see if you can manually move the heat control flap this will look like two toothed semi circular cogs that inter lock , one may have jumped out of place try a little vaseline on the cogs to help lubricate the movement,this is just good practice, after all this i think you will have found the problem

hi most likely u r ignition switch wear and tear depending on u r millage i just replaced 2003 civic with 181000 same issue hope it helps danny

replace transmission filter!

One or more bad gear synchronizers in transmission

If you need to add, you have a leak & are polutingthe atmosphereHave the system evacuated,repaired & properly chargedYou have no way to force an unknown amount into the system& may ruin it, by over filling or letting air inA/C work of any kind ,on any product, is for the trained peoplewith the correct equipment

You can find it beside your left knee when setting in the driver seat .

there are different ways to bench bleed the master depending on the tools available to you... did you receive a fitting, with or without a port for a small hose, in the new master box? if not then you should make one or get one at the parts store. you need to put the master in a vice (from the mount, not the body) and fill it with fluid. this is where the fitting comes in handy, you are going slowly depress the piston about half way at first having the fluid that comes out the port directed back into the reservoir with a hose. keep the hose submerged. if a vice and fittings are not available, you can mount the master in the vehicle, connect the line and fill with fluid. disconnect the line from the slave cylinder and submerge it in a container. press the pedal by hand slowly. make sure the line stays submerged and the master is never run dry. if everything is kept clean, you can reuse the fluid from the catch container.