Top 20 1991 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

I would get on YouTube. It will show the location and how to remove

catalytic converter If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

Are you sure there isn't a relay still in the dash, Honda has quite a few relays in the dash, are you sure you didn't miss one , go back and take a good look at the dash for relays, good luck.

if car not starting.it could be fuel pump, filter or starter motor failed. Check the injectors.. Try jump starting the car

If your Honda is naturally aspirated/carbureted, then your only problem is the fact that the diaphragm that squirts gas into the venturis is not operating. Maybe just need to replace said diaphragm or maybe just an adjustment to make it squirt sooner is all it may need. This initial gasoline squirt is what keeps the engine from dieing when you stomp the throttle. Understood?

Even the best kept vehicle can have an EGR problem. Makes no difference what else you do to it to TRY to make it run better, until you replace the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, you'll always have the problem. Replace the EGR, no more problem.

Is the fuel pressure ok under a load? Is the MAP sensor good? Does it have a good vacuum signal from the engine? Is the timing belt set up properly, it may have jumped a tooth (should be replaced about every 60,000 miles). Is the exhaust free flowing with not excess back pressure?

Hi, I hope I can help you, but need some info. 1.Did you replace the actual thermostat or just the housing ?( your statement says "just put in thermostat housing". If the car has no thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to stay in the radiator long enough to cool down and eventually boil over. 2. If the thermostat was replaced, check to make sure the correct temperature rated thermostat was installed and it was not installed upside down. 3. You mentioned "water started boiling". Was the cooling system filled only with water? Using just water only, and not an actual engine coolant, should never be done, as water will reach a boiling point faster than a coolant and will also corrode the inside metallic parts of the cooling system. 4. Is there any visible signs of leaks in the cooling system when it's running? Any puddles forming under the car? If yes, the leaks need to be addressed before trying to repair anything else in the system. I hope this helps, and please write back, as I will check back for any updates you may have written in on this.

1 3 4 2 If you have the 1.6 engine.

1342

Have you checked transmission level very common when low wont change gear.

There isnt one. no emergency shut off. If there is a fuel issue, check your main relay (its under your drivers side dash to the left); the sodering points might have been cracked in the accident; as they tend to wear out and crack due to heat and wear anyways.

Mine is: Width 48" Depth 33" Height 14" Hope this helps.

perhaps the suction from the pump to the tank needs to be primed, fill suction line with fuel.

code p1362 refers to camshaft position sensor (CMP) ---no signal==causes wiring--CMP sensor--ECM programming--ECM First point -cheap sensors are a waste of time and money as they have to be made with a pre-set range suitable to the ECM in your car. next point --when fitting cam/crank position sensors you have to ensure the correct air gap is maintained . third point ---because it is not set to your CPU program then it is advisable to use a scanner tool to reprogram the CPU to read the sensors fitted. I would advise a change of mechanic as it appears that the advice you are getting is not exactly accurate.

It has always been my experience 91 civic hatch that the brake light is tide into the e-brake switch. I would start there. Does anything seem to be wrong with the way the brakes feel while driving?

Blue smoke is oil being burned in the cylinders with the gas. You need to determine: How bad is it? Where is it coming from? It could be anything from not too serious to your engine is on its last legs. On the "not too serious side" is a chance that it is bad valve seals. If this is the case, your oil consumption will likely not be high and the blue smoke will likely be mostly right when you start the engine. On the "really bad" side, it could be the piston rings, or a cracked block or head. This would mean the fix is either an overhaull or an engine replacement. On the positive side, this is a relatively easy engine to overhaull and good used engines are readily available. 88-91 1.5L Honda Engines are interchangeable. If it is one of these, you will probably see blue smoke all the time and maybe more when accellerating. Oil consumption will likely be high (you will have to add oil often.) Start with a compression test. Are all the cylinders about the same or is there a big variation? Do it with the engine warmed up and at normal operating temperature. When you pull the spark plugs, for the compression test, look at each one. Do they all look about the same or is one or more fouled with oil? You should see nothing liquid on the "business end" of the plugs and if you see oil, you have a problem.. If one cylinder has low compression, then you may want to charge the cylinder with it set to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression cycle with compressed air or nitrogen and listen to where it is leaking. If it is hissing out the exhaust, it is probably an exhaust valve or seal. If it is hissing in the block, listen where you put the oil in, then it is probably rings. If it is hissing out the tube that connects to the air filter, it is probably an intake valve or seal. If all cylinders are low, it is likely worn out piston rings. Another check that will help identify the problem is to squirt some oil into the spark plug hole of all 4 cylinders and recheck the compression. If it comes up significantly, it is likely rings. Good luck. Blue smoke in the exhaust is one of the things you should always look for when buying a used car. Another simple thing is look at the air cleaner - if you see any oil in the air cleaner housing - walk away. (it is from what is called "blow-by" and means the engine is worn out). Take a look at the dipstick at see if the oil looks like oil and has no milky or foamy look and does not have a strong burned smell to it. When the engine is running and warmed up, look at the coolant container. Are there air bubbles coming up? Yes means blown head gasket or cracked block. Also look for oil mixed with the coolant (same thing). There are a number of easy checks you can make that can save you from buying someone else's expensive problems. (or at least know what you are getting) Blue smoke in the exhaust is always a bad thing, but not always a catastrophic thing. If it is a small leak from a valve seal, and gives you a little blue smoke at startup, you may be able to ignore it for many tens of thousands of miles. If you see a lot of blue smoke and all the time, expect the spark plugs to foul out soon, and the car may not even start in cold weather. Also expect to add a lot of oil or else have the engine run out and self destruct. If the oil light comes on (and the temperature starts to go up quickly) the engine bearings are starved for oil and it is about to become a boat anchor.

Use a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar the belt tensioner has a square hole pull on pretty hard should release tension to take the belt off

You will want to check the wire connections for the heat sensor(s). It is possible that the connection(s) were damaged or loosened when the work under the hood was being done. you may also have to check the sensor(s) it self to insure that it has not failed. You will want to check the wire connections for the heat sensor(s). It is possible that the connection(s) were damaged or loosened when the work under the hood was being done. You may also have to check the sensor(s) itself to insure that it has not failed.

5spd or auto?