Top 10 1991 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

you have to replace the main relay located inside the car, its located underneath the cruise control module, on the drivers side

It is recommended, if you have an automatic transmission, that you change the entire ignition switch assembly(the entire apparatus that goes around the steering column and is held in place by two shear bolts that have to be drilled out and require that you remove the steering wheel, the shields behind it and the instrument panel)
It is recommended that you remove the steering wheel HOWEVER, If you have an SRS (air bags) most manuals will tell you to have the work done by a Honda dealer, because disarming the SRS is a bit involved, and there’s no way for you to test it after you have done the job. If you don’t have air bags just remove the steering wheel and ignore the parts that come later here involving how to do things without removing it.
It is possible to change the ignition key lock on a Honda Accord Automatic, without removing the steering wheel and/or disarming the SRS, IF you are willing to take your time and exercise special effort. Since I have changed the lock myself, without removing the steering wheel, I know it can be done. Also, the entire switch costs a fortune, whereas the lock and keys can usually be had on eBay for around $30.00. If you want to give it a try, continue:
First, take both cables off the battery. Before you do, make sure that your radio isn't one of those anti-theft jobs that needs a code when you hook the battery back up. If you don't have the code, no more radio.
Next, remove the shields behind the steering wheel. There are seven screws in the bottom shield, four threaded and three pointed. Remember where they go. After you have removed them, ease the portion of the bottom shield out from around the key lock, then it will be loose. If you have a tilt-wheel model, you will have to push the lever down (while holding the steering wheel where you want it) and then the shield can be pivoted so that it will come off the lever. Then push the lever back up.
The top shield will pull out from the top position with only minimal easing upward and outward.
After the shields are removed, you will see that the lock is behind the wiper apparatus and that the set screw that holds it in (Philips head) can not be accessed in the normal manner (with the steering wheel removed). Don't give up yet. First, remove the illumination bulb from the plastic shield around the lock itself. Turn the bulb holder about ¼ turn and it should then come out of the housing. Then, remove the plastic shields themselves. There are three of them and they will all come off after you figure out how various plastic parts clip minimally onto the lock. It just takes a bit of working back and forth. When you have the shields off, you are ready to remove the lock itself.
At this point, insert the key into the lock and turn the lock to I. Leave it there.
Two maneuvers that would be very easy if the steering wheel were removed are more difficult this way, but they can be done with slow care and effort. First, the set screw has to be loosened, NOT removed. Using a good pair of needle-nose pliers, you can carefully turn the screw out until the lock will clear it (you can see the inner point of the screw where it blocks the locks removal, so you should be able to see when it no longer will cause such a block). Next, you must push in the pin that is part of the lock itself and comes up in a hole in the casing just a short distance back from the set-screw (you may need a flashlight to see the hole). Now, since you don't have the steering wheel removed, you can't simply push a small philip's head screwdriver into the hole to compress the pin. You will have to use something like an allen wrench (with the 45% angle) of the proper size to fit into the hole and carefully fit the end into the hole while holding the longer end. Even then, you probably won't be able to get enough pressure on the allen wrench to push in the pin unless you carefully insert a flat-bladed screwdriver behind the wrench and lever it into the hole. I know, sounds like you need three hands, but if you are careful, and give yourself plenty of time, it will work.
Once you have the pin compressed, with your fourth hand you can work the lock out of the casing. Okay, sometimes the pin will pop back up and you will have to compress it again, but if you work the lock out as much as possible (just a hair) before compressing the pin, it will tend to catch the pin under the casing so that you can continue with removal.
When you have the lock out, you will find that it still has one wire connected to it by what appears to be a piece of plastic with the screw through it. Remove the screw, then, CAREFULLY pry up the end that the screw goes through and remove the plastic part by moving it slightly in the direction of the screw hole and lifting it up (there is a tiny tab at the other end of the part that fits into the lock, so you will have to put that end in first when you connect the part to the new lock). Okay, get your new lock, making sure that it is the same as your old lock and attach the plastic part and screw in reverse of how you took them off.
Now, with the new lock with key inserted and turned to I, carefully slide it back in to the same position as the old one was when you removed it. It should, perhaps with only a slight amount of pressure, click into place (the pin comes up in the hole). When that is accomplished, you should try the key to see that it turns through it positions easily.
If it does, carefully (using the needle-nose pliers) tighten the set-screw that holds the lock in position. Then replace the three plastic lock shields and put the illumination bulb back in simply by reversing the turn by which you took it out.
At this point, you should hook your battery back up and see it everything works as it should before you go through the trouble of reinstalling the top and bottom shields. Start the car.
If it starts, give it a short test drive to make sure it runs and shifts properly then turn it off, replace the shields and congratulate yourself on having done that which they all said couldn't be done.
I hope that this helps you.

• Here is the diagram you requested. Cylinder 1 is on the right side.

I show immobilizers where only started in the 1998 accords, if you have a remote starter and they used a key in the box bypass all you need to do is find the box under the dash open it up and use the key

Here you go curtorsey About.com.

I assume your talking about the timing belt marks for the crank and cam,heres a diagram to help you.

The list is above

You can get the wire diagram on the link below page 18.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/113/113KDC248U.PDF

Have come across this before and have only had to replace any parts a couple of times. What I have found to be the problem in about half the cases was that there was a poor connection in the connector at the right shock tower. Also in about 30 percent of the case I have found an open wire that was just old and as it got hotter would lose it's continuity. Below is a picture of one of the connectors at the distributor. When you are having problems check to see if you have battery voltage at the yellow wire by using your negative battery terminal as your ground when checking for voltage and the key needs to be in the "on" position when checking. If voltage is not correct find the open wire. Last but not least, in the other connector at the distributer (see the next picture) where you see the leter "A" or terminal "A" with the key on and using the battery as a ground you should have about 10 volts there. If not correct, replace the ignitor. It may be heating up but as I said this is not common but have seen it before. Remember to check when the problem is happening when checking. Hope this helps.....

I had the same problem with my 92 Accord I found an arrey of helpful videos on this I typed in, (92 accord timing belt.)