20 Most Recent 1990 Honda Prelude - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Thats usually a bad symptom. Burnt valve. Do you see white smoke when you first start the car in the morning? If so valve guides and and valves need work. I just went through it with my car. I removed the head and had it overhauled 2 hundred bucks. and now it runs great. Good luck P.S if you have a shop do it it will be 14 hundred.

Have you changed your fast idle valve or air idel control valve I would change the air idle valve because it is the one with an electric sensor.

Open your hood, it is located on the passenger side corner up against the fire wall. It is yellow pull the cap off bend a papper clip in a u shap. put it in turn key on but dont start car. there is a little flap in your captet on the passenger floor. the little red light will flash long and short blinks. then convert the code

the timing belt is probably broken, this means the valves in the head are probably bent. this is an interference engine,meaning the valves and the pistons cannot be in the same place at the same time. get back to me if you need more help,please rate my fix as i strive for the best.
sorry for the bad news Ray

I had a 92 honda prelude with a rebuilt engine, the original owner put all the vacuum hoses in a mess, and connected things to weird places. The engine would have fluctuating RPM, idle slow, then fast, speed up then slow down.

It took us a while to figure out why, but in the end, all we needed to do was remove all the vacuum lines and connect them properly. If you have a repair manual make sure you look through it and that all your vacuum lines are connected correctly.

Before that we also had to fix up a few electrical wiring mistakes and errors (that I believe was a different problem on its own)

I hope this helps, did you take pictures of the old engine before you took it apart? so that you could see how everything goes back together?

It's also good to re-check all of your connectors, if you have a sensor not connected, or 2 similar sensors connected to the wrong sensor you could get the same result.

If you don't have a repair manual, it's a good idea to purchase one. they are rather cheap. dealers sell them, in Canada we can also buy them at Canadian Tire (I'm not sure where you live, so I don't know where you would go to get one other than a dealer)

I hope this helps, keep me posted, and have patience it can be frustrating

sounds like your on the rite track . clean the contacts at the batt and at the starter and get back to me

you might check your adjustment on your clutch is sound that its not releasing right check your pedal freplay should not more than 1 inch or snycho in your transmission is already causing it not to apply in those gears which you may end up by rebuilding your tranny of buy a new one..

if the battery is good and this happens, usually the starter is dragging internally, a new starter will fix this, starter normally comes with a new solenoid.

Have you checked the fluid in you clutch master cylinder? If it will go into gear without the engine running, its a chance that your fluid level is low. Good luck.

Tighten the Alternator belt

well the perfect ait to feul ratio is 14.7 : 1

I have had problems with my 89 prelude. I found that the problem wasn't with the fuel pump, rather the master relay. You will have voltage at the fuel pump with the fuel pump dicconnected, but when you connect the pump and put a electrical load on the circuit, the voltage drops. check current with the pump running and see if this is the case.

i would check the connection from the pcm to the speed sensor sounds like the wire is getting hot

Hopefully fixed the problem by setting the idle a little higher. I think the IACV is ok.

Carry out a compression test and make sure the HT leads are good with a Multi meter set on OHM's they should be at least 1-5kohm

all you in fo is not there if you said your battery was dead but you could jump it and it would run but not charge battery then you altanator is working but you have a dead seal in the battery replace battery and you will be fine but if you drive it to much with bad battery your altanator will go bad from over working

The first step in wheel stud replacement is to remove the old one. On almost every car, this is done by taping them out from the threaded side
.
Rotate the hub so that the back side (flat, on the back side of the hub) will not smash into something when you tap it out.
You will need a heavy hammer and safety glasses,

Next, while the glasses are on your face, use the hammer and whack on the threaded end of the old stud to drive it out the back side of the hub. If if was broken off real short, you might have to use a punch to transfer the hammer blows to what is left of the stud.

To install the new one, place it in the hole from the back side and use a standard lug nut on the new stud screwed on backwards (flat end toward the hub) and then use the car's lug wrench to tighten the nut and pull the stud into the hub. Make sure the grooves in the hub line up with the ridges in the new stud before trying to seat it.

Once the stud is fully seated, remove the lug nut. You are done.

I usually buy a standard lug nut that fits the replacement stud to do this procedure because most mag nuts are closed on the back end. It is cheap and will save lots of time.


Tad

check the throttle position sensor or the mass air flow sensor

yes. there is a large main inline filter right next to the gas tank and a smaller filter at the fuel inlet of the carbuerator. this one usually doesn't need changed as often as the main filter, about every 50k miles or so

if they both are the 2.0L they are the sme thing.