Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
This is a strange code that doesn't appear to have one definitive reason, it's a bit of "you have a bit of a problem, but we aren't sure". Just Answer dot com mechanic says it is the MAF Sensor.
https://p1004-volvo.autotroublecode.com/http://p1004.engine-trouble-code.com/
JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > volvo > iq32q-99-s70-v...
Feb 12, 2022 - On newer vehicles, the P1004 is for the short runner valve which is internal to the intake manifold and makes sure there is even air ...
1 answer ยท Top answer: HI This is 100% unrelated to your original question. I will answer this as a courtesy, but ...
Have you tried using the key at the tail gate, ,open with the key then move then push the locking mechanism open with a screwdriver the latch close while the door/gate was open, push it back open use some force. Hope this help if is a mechanical issue and not electrical it doesn't matter .
Your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) there is an oil trap and associated hoses on the front of the engine. It runs from under the spark plug wire cover down beneath the starter (the oil trap is located here). Typically, the system plugs up and dries out. You need to remove the trap and hoses and clean the holes out beneath the trap which drain into the oil pan. I used a small brush and a bent coat hanger. I also drained the oil (needed to be changed anyway) and sprayed some sea foam down there to loosen things up and then blew it out with rubber hose with compressed air. It worked well. Pay special attention to cleaning out the bottom hole because this is where it gets clogged the most. The parts cost about $150 or so.
They are slip on/off. You use an 17mm size box wrench and wedge it between the end of the hoses and the fuel filter and GENTLY pry the hoses off. After securing the new filter in place, push the hoses back on by HAND. Note the flow direction on the filter (there is an arrow on the body of the filter) before removing and make sure it is facing the same direction when re-installing.
code is for misfire on cylinder 4 , may just need the plug cleaning or may need a new coil pack , plug lead , or more advanced diagnostics to get to the exact cause
Possible answer. You will need to dig through potential answers. Most dealers will credit a $100 diagnostic fee to repair charges. If this is emissions issue it may be the most effective investment.
I googled and this is result after the internal code search.
http://volvoforums.com/forum/esp_search.php?query=+1999+Volvo+V70+p1053+and+p1026+&ref=esp-nav-bar&type=allhttp://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?14731-Code-P1031-and-P1026-No-Rpms-HELP-!!!
Rather than the complete valve body it may just be connections to the throttle position indicator sensor or it's equivalent. Cleaning connections to bright metal contacts between sensor spades and the connector to remove corrosion on my 93 volvo 240. Returned to normal operation. I suspect road salt or sea salt will cause similar issues in a shorter time.
Sounds like the activator rod that goes from the door Handle to the latch is disconnected. You will have to get the door open to repair it and a good mechanic or tow truck driver can use a slim Jim kit to get the latch to release and then you can pull the door panel and find the problem.
I had the same problem and found that if I made sure the button on the shift lever is out all the way the key would come out. Mine was sticking and had to be pulled out, the spring had become weak on the shift knob.
Sounds like a bad ABS control module is at least part of your problem. The symptoms are usually and ABS and TRACS light intermittent or constand and eventually your speedometer works intermittently or totally quits. This guy rebuilds/upgrades them for about $140. New ones run over $800. http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/Volvo_Parts/Volvo_ABS_removal.htm
Per other sites I've seen these 2 codes p1618,p0722, are your ABS module. It can be taken out and re soldered and will work fine. Many Volvo mechanics know how to do this or you can find a repair service on Ebaymotors possibly. My guy charges me $150. Supposedly you can even drive the car without the module installed but you won't have abs so don't expect to stop as you usually would with a correctly working ABS. Your tires will now skid old school instead of the abs module taking over and pullsing your brake pedal, etc.
Usually the ABS computer knows what it is doing. You may want someone to hookup a scanner to the ABS test port.
When I had my speedometer and odometer act up, it turned out to be a bad alternator. You might want to check yours.
More like computer.. you will need to isolate the problem with one code at a time... sometime two codes are fixed, try this: 1. Check the rotor and break pad thickness, that normally will fix abs, brake or abs and tracs. 2. check engine could be as simple as an O2 sensor or fuel filter, coil pack, starter... each needs to be check'd. 3. check engine should identify condition codes.. go to princess auto and pick up the comptuer untit for 60$. 4. If it ain't burning oil.. heck have fun with it. Have fun..
