20 Most Recent 1999 Volvo V70 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

my son took his to the dealer ship and since he showed them the title was in his name the reprogramed it for him for free

have you checked your fuses?

The fan is rubbing ,was any of you srews striped, if they are replace with some larger screws and that will realiagn the motor

PO505 is idle control system malfunction. PO446 is evaporative emissions ( evap) vent system performance . PO443 is evaporative emission control sytem purge control circuit malfunction. PO135 is O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) PO141 is 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2) Now what does all this mean. It means your O2 sensors are being effected by a problem upstream. Could be a many things. If the engine runs perfect then it may be one bad O2 Sensor but it may not. My advice is to have this diagnosed by a trusted mechanic who has the tools, skill, and knowledge to find the problem and not just throw parts at the problem. You can spend lots of money on this unless you know exactly what is causing all these codes.

Hello,
there are two oxy sensors on this car. One of them is in the front and the other one is in the rear. They are located on the exhaust system. If you have standart tools and a lift (or a place to lift or to go under the car) for a workshop, you can do it by your self.

Most common cause of this problem is a bad climate control power stage. The power stage control the speed of the blower fan on different settings, if it goes bad it defaults to full blast. There is a small chance the climate contro lunit itself is bad but more than 90% of the time, it is the power stage. It is located near the blower fan under the dash in the passenger footwell area. It makes it much easier to remove the glove box and knee bolster as well as the cover panel. It is rectangular in shape about 1.5" x 3" and black.

This is not good. White smoke is usually coolant, but the deposits on the plugs indicates oil related issue. Major exploritory surgery is in your future.

Start with a leak down test, and based on the results of that, your next step will be more clear.

Sorry for the bad news, but you already knew that, with the smoke report.

Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Removal




Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder
Jack up the car.
Remove protection cover from under engine.
Drain the coolant.
Lower the car.
Release coolant hose from thermostat housing using pliers.
Remove thermostat housing.
Remove sensor.




Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder
Jack up the car.
Remove protection cover from under engine.
Drain the coolant.
Lower the car.
Loosen oil reservoir for servo pump.
Remove coolant reservoir and put it to one side.
Remove screws and outer/upper timing-gear casing.
Remove screws and wire channel.
Disconnect connector.
Remove 4 screws and thermostat housing.
Remove sensor and wires.
Installation
Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder
Install thermostat housing sensor.
Position wires in slot on thermostat housing.
Note! The white marks should be positioned in lower opening of slot, from underneath.
Position gasket on thermostat housing correctly and install thermostat housing using two of the screws.
Position thermostat housing correctly and tighten the four screws.
Position wire channel correctly and position wire in channel.
Tighten screw on wire channel.
Connect the connector.
Install outer/upper timing-gear casing.
Install coolant reservoir.
Install oil reservoir for servo pump.
Follow-on work, 6-cylinder
Fill up coolant.
Warm the engine until the thermostat opens.
Switch engine oft and check the level. Re-fill if necessary.
Check for leaks.
Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears
correct.
Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder
Install in reverse order.
Follow-on work, 5-cylinder
Fill up coolant.
Warm the engine until the thermostat opens.
Switch engine off and check the level. Re-fill if necessary.
Check for leaks.
Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears
correct.

The reservoir is on the passenger side in the engine compartment just forward of the shock mount. It has a green cap.

3.5 Quarts for a drain and fill

sounds like a misfire should take car to shop asap could be causing damage to car

You have a front and rear knock sensor. You have to pull the intake manifold to get to them. If you haven't done your PVC system in a while I would go ahead and tackle that while I was in the same area since it's all the same interferrence removal. Here's a good tutorial on it: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/knock_sensor.pdf

Here's a good tutorial on the belt change. http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sbelt70.php

were do you reside? if you live on the sea coast then the salt from the sea blast whould course the rusting,take it to a pro.body shop,they would be able to treat and rpair the area

1999 Volvo V70 5-Cyl. 2.3 L

Front End Accessory Drive Components
Serpentine; W/A.C. - Automotive Dual-Sided V-Ribbed Belt


Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump


For more details or model 1999 Volvo V70 5-Cyl. 2.4L, I suggest visit Auto Replacement Parts Catalog.

I hope help you with this; good luck (remember rated this help).

A common problem with this model.. had the same issue with my 98 V70. It is usually (but not always) due to wear in the microswitches that control these warning lights. They are an integral part of the door locking system so this can sometimes be rectified by replacing the locking units (be warned though, these are not cheap so it's worth checking before you start to confirm that this is really the problem).

you must buy the hole blt they are not to be disasembled for safety reasons the belt should bolt under the rear seat

ebay, buy a copy of radio codes