20 Most Recent 1998 Volvo S70 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The easiest way is to use a air or electric impact wrench to break them loose. Another option is to put a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut and have somebody hold it while you break them free. Make sure you set everything to TDC prior to taking it all apart!

Are you asking how to align your trunk lid? Or are you just making a statement?

EJ, There are discount import parts stores that offer parts for less. Other than that you will just have to search online.

Latoya, I am assuming that you replaced the factory unit with another stock Volvo head unit? If this is the case, you can pull the unit back out and get the unlock code off the label on the unit. If this is missing, you will need to go to a local dealer and have them reprogram the unit if that's still possible. Good luck.

Have your fuel pump pressure tested. Pretty common problem with Volvo. If that checks fine, than look over electrical connections under the hood. I once found that a bad connection to the crank position sensor was causing this.

The timing marks are on the gears under the cover once you find them on the gears remove the side cover I think its 12mm bolt put the top one back on and the two notches on the center of the plastic cover are the tdc marks to line with the gears

It only takes 2 hours with the car not running and the key in the on position so all the lights light up

If you get a check-engine light, but not immediately after clearing it, it sounds like it could be a vacuum issue. I have a slightly newer version of your engine in my car, so I don't recall exactly how yours looks, but there should be a hose at the top of your intake manifold. It's a little rubber hose held tight with a clamp and it snakes down between the intake runners towards the engine. Check that this hose isn't cracked. You might not see it as the crack might be on the bottom of the hose. The heat, age and that slight bend in the hose contributes to cracking, this gives you a small intake leak which is hard to see and find and only sets the light after so many driving cycles. The QUICK and dirty fix is to remove the clamp, pull the hose off that nipple on the manifold and cut the hose back past the crack, then stick it back on. That should cover you for the road trips. When you get home, get the proper sized fuel hose (or other hose impervious to most things) and replace it. While you do that, check other hoses around it to make sure they're not dried/cracked too. You may also want to do the "rubber glove test" to make sure your PCV and oil separator are in good shape. You're basically ensuring there's vacuum in the filler neck and dipstick tube. If there's pressure there, your PCV is plugged. A whole kit can be had at FCP Groton for.. $300ish. OH!! I almost forgot. Another reason for shudders when coming down to idle/stop is the throttle body. They get gummed up, particularly if you have a turbo. Oil and gunk builds up a bit at the throttle plate, so you remove it and use a clean rag and some carb cleaner to wipe off all the crud on and around the plate. I'd do this AFTER checking that hose though.

Depending on if you have a high pressure Turbo or not. The engine in my S70 T5 is a high pressure turbo 2.3 litre. Look on your driver side fender(under the hood) for the VIN Tag and it will tell you what engine is in your car.

If I remember correctly, there are little notches in the plastic cover over the cams and they correspond to lines or dimples in the cam sprockets. You may need to use a wrench on the crank bolt to turn the engine over once OR TWICE to make the marks line up properly. Once you've found them, mark them with a dab of WhiteOut and you can easily see them next time. On the crank, there's a little tab or protrusion on the back of the crank sprocket that lines up with a mark on the block. ALso hard to see until you've seen it the first time, then it makes sense and you know what to look for next time.

You need to look under the hood, located the Broken/Missing Serpentine Belt. Repair the damage the belt did when it broke and put a new one in. The Alternator is not turning and that is causing No Power to get to the systems and more than likely, when it broke, it knocked some wires around.

Either means it's in winter mode or has a faulty transmission. From your description I'd say your transmission is on its way out.

there is no fuse its hard wired in such a way only the dealer has the instrument to fix it otherwise a thief could just pull the fuse and thats no anti theft at all the wires go thru the entire car too so you cant jus snip the lead