20 Most Recent 1998 Volvo S70 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I have never seen a fusible link on a Volvo.

probably the bulb has blown

IPD's website has a great video on the site that shows you step by step how everything comes apart and goes back together to change Heater Cores. It would be easier for you to watch that than have me explain. You have probably missed a screw somewhere.

Fuel filter stopped up.

Sounds like the electric lock is stuck, try to unlock it manually.

You will likely need the heater hose junction (Volvo p/n 3522035) since it always leaks and it connects the heater core to the heater hoses on the firewall. The kit usually contains the retaining clips, but not the O-rings to connect to the heater core. You will also need the outlet and inlet hoses (9186847 and 9186849). The length, angles and configuration of these hoses will help you understand their orientation in the engine bay. They can only go on one way. Else, they won't connect to the pipes from the engine.

I\'m thinking out loud here - if the car won\'t move when you put it in gear, it sounds like maybe the torque converter is bad. If it\'s unbalanced, you\'d get vibrations and the car may not move.Water under the car may or may not be related. Is that maybe just a few drops, like from the A/C condensation?If it were the water pump, then the car wouldn\'t start/run because that belt also drives the cams (without which the car won\'t run at all).1, Check the coolant level - is it normal or low? You can dip a finger in the water on the ground and touch it to your tongue. If it tastes nasty sweet, it\'s coolant (don\'t swallow, rinse your mouth well with water and spit it out).2, Does the car start/idle normally? If so, then it\'s something with the transmission if the car doesn\'t move back/forth. It\'s a front wheel drive car, so maybe look at the drive shafts inside of the front wheel to see if there\'s oil/grease splattered and if anything looks broken.

Wrong key? Might be a "dumb" key that fits only the doors but doesn\'t have the "smart" electronics for the ignition switch? Steering wheel jammed to one side?

There are several possible reasons. Obvious ones might be checking for fuses that are burned out. Second would be making sure you are getting good connections to your brake lamps (all 3). Third, check the brake light switch at the pedal. And last, Volvo Part Number 9442303 is a brake lamp failure relay that can go bad. It's not inexpensive, but probably more than likely the issue. One way to check is to find out if your cruise control works. If it does not, it is likely the relay. It is grey and flat on all sides. Earlier model Volvos had round red ones. Check the location in the service manual.

You probably have an earth or short on the live feed to the bulb. Use a multi-meter set to 20V dc and measure the voltage between the live and neutral on the bulb holder, it should be around 12v

If you have the full VIN, you can type it into Google, and it will likely come back with a couple of advertisements for "vehicle history." They want to sell you this information. What is available without cost are basic vehicle info like engine, body style, year of manufacture, and perhaps location of manufacturing plant where it was built.

take to a repair shop as sounds like the inhibitor switch may be causing an issue but could also be a few other things , get the OBD codes read and go from there

Likely there are several other possible problems. First, batteries generally have a 5-year life although that's only average under GREAT conditions and service. Second, connections on top of the battery may need to be cleaned. Third, many times the alternator is unable to charge the battery if it is not functioning properly. Have the output of your alternator checked to make sure it is providing between 13.8V and 14.4V. If not, it may not be capable of charging your battery. And last, your electrical system may have a drain on it (a trunk light or glove box light stays on).

It should be on the plastic timing cover, in the form of a couple of notches.

It has been my experience that both radiator hoses get hard with age, check the hoses for age and cracking because they usually are hard right before they give out. They get hard when they get old due to excessive oil covering because of an oil leak and heat from the engine and the coolant within the hose.

Check the relay switch, change the radiator cap of the expansion tank. Pressure lost through the cap with not activate the radiator fan.

Did the engine stall or did it just lose power but stay running? Did the gauges fall to "0" or idle? Usually when something major like that happens, the check engine light will come on and there will be codes set in the computer. I would start by checking the codes, and if at all possible, use Volvo's VIDA and DiCE interface to make sure you get the right codes. Some generic code readers can't read all the Volvo specific stuff. That will get you closer to the actual problem. Rule out the simple stuff. Do you have enough gas in the tank? The gas gauge might be wrong and you're empty. The ETM could be wonky and on its way out. Google "Volvo ETM" and read up - there's a sticker on it and the color of the sticker could indicate if you have the old (likely faulty) module or not. Ignition wires - these engines are coil on plug if I remember right (they changed around those years '98 or '99) and then you check the little wires to the coils.