1995 Volvo 850 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

moisture might be getting in the plug wires or coil pack.

CHECK PLUGS AND WIRES ALONG WITH COIL.

Usually when your lit up like a christmas tree its a sign of battery not getting full charge. Check the wring harness first, (if alternator is new it should be under warranty so worth checking that out.) Especially if you have a multimeter handy: check DC voltage at the battery. with it running a decent charge would be abour 13.7-14.1. if you're some where around there you're good. if it's below that your alternator is failing in some manor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kEIxV4cBCg

It's on the engine, right next to the starter, it has one wire going to it. You don't need to drain the oil. If the light is coming on, you may have bad seals in the oil pan, a fairly common problem, but replacing the switch is a good fisrt step.

Mine had the same problem. You need to get the code from the engine diagnostic. You need to open the two covers near the windshield washer fill and plug the prung into socket A6. with the key turn to pos2 (engine not running) press the black button once, you get a serie of blink as morse code. Mine was a code 3-1-1 witch is a faulty speed sensor (that goes bad when hot but ok when cold). It could also be 3-1-4 or 3-2-4 witch is the cam shaft position sensor. I had the change them both last year. The cam sensor doesn't always log in a fault,as mine did'nt but the car kept stalling, something about being withing the right range but not pulsing. Source : My 94 850 and Haynes manualNote : The rattle is probably from a loose heat shield that vibrates when the car is about to stall.

WELL SOUNDS LIKE THE BATTERY OR ALT WENT BAD BUT MAKE SHERE ALL THE BELTS ARE ON

The locking mechanism is plastic and usually brakes apart inside. It needs to be replaced. Because it is a 96 model, I would not trust used parts. Buy new from Volvo. They run in the $200 range for the part.

Get yourself a wiring diagram & start a logicalprocess- of learning about what your trying to repairYour just simply playing around- with no idea of how things work

Hi there:I suggest check THIS LINK or try it in Autozone.com (DIret link).Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

What year, make, model there.

Leaking head gasket.

when you day the air goes on and off i assume you mean the compressor goes on and off. that is what moves th freon through the system. if you are getting cold air when the compressor is running then the problem is that the compressor is stopping and that would be because a pressure switch may be bad. it is possible that model has a thermal shut down too say if the compressor was low on lubricant and was overheating when it does run. but if it is a pressure switch that is failing and they do, it is an easy fix. if you follow the ac lines you will find the switch.it is small about the size of a sparkplug-attached to the ac line and will have a connector with two wires. if the car is running and ac is on but the compressor is not turning remove the connector and jump to two wires. the compressor will start running if the switch was bad and we are sure there is a good charge on the system. if you are getting cold air there should be a sufficient charge to close the switch. these switches can be removed without losing any freon. there is a valve below them that will shut off when the switch is removed. then all you have to do is get a new one and screw it into place,apply the connector and you are done. if that is the problem. hope this helps please let me know and good luck

The oil could be leaking from the rocket cover. The rocker cover bolts may need tightening or the rocket cover gasket needs replacing.

under the intake manifold...which must be removed to get to them

Check for a vacuum leaks, air intake system or injection and fuel pressure problems.

There is only one cause of a blocked radiator - rust and corrosion. (usually the result of not maintaining the engine cooling system properly)

I read you other post. A motor or transmission mount may cause vibration throughthe whole car. However, it will not cause the delay you described in going into reverse. If you want to know if you have a bad motor mount all you have to do is get someone to help you and watch the motor mounts when you put the thing in gear (both forward and reverse) and brake-torque the engine a little. If the mount is broken, you will see the break when it comes up under load.Otherwise, it sounds to me that you are describing an internal transmission problem.

Gears slipping ****** might starting to go

Possible blower resistor/control module failure. Usually located near the blower motor itself.