Top 20
1994 Volvo 940 Questions & Answers
Heater problem blower not blowing ?
Hi Steve, you're so close to the answer already.
The feed wire is broken and sometimes it touches and sometimes not. It might just be the fitting on the end if you're lucky.
I'd replace the whole wire just to be sure ;)
Removal of lift gate supports 1994 Volvo 940
If these are the gas tube style supports, there is a metal half moon clip on either end that has to be pryed back to release and removed to pull the tube off the most that it connects to.
Why does it jerk between 1500 and 2000 rpm while changing gears (automatic)?
Hi,sometimes this can be becouse the filter and transmition fluid need changed,people tend to ignore this area but its just as importent as changing the engine oil and filter,also there is a additive you can use that helps to make things run better inside the transmition its cald,(xado)you can find this on ebay,I drive a mercedes and always use this product it dose work.
I hope this was some help,and just to say I dont sell or make any money from these people who sell xado I just know that it works,all the best.
What will keep heater fan from working( both fuses check good)?
The speeds are controlled by a resistor pack. Changing the resistor pack may restore full functionality. Volvo heater fans are notorious for squealing. Usually they are run at a speed that doesn't squeal. If it squeals at one speed, sometimes a different speed won't squeal. The resistors seem to eventually fail. They are fairly cheap to replace.
Console does not come out of park even when shift button is depressedw2hy
I would try the brake button under the pedal it tells the computer you are depressing the pedal and unlocks the shifter or there should be a manual pull switch. It works like a hood pull you pull up on it and switch the car out of park. It should be described in the owners manual. I have a few more ideas as to what could be causing this issue but lets start with these. Hope this works.
How to change transmission filter in a 1994 Volvo
1) Work safely: work on this only when the transmission is cold. Hot transmission oil will burn you. Note - the transmission filter is actually a metal screen. If you search on AW71 filter and look at the images you can get a better sense of what you are working on if you haven't done one.2) Drain the oil via the drain plug. The recommendation is that at the same time of changing the filter, the transmission should be pressure-flushed, removing suspended particles in the oil itself.3) Remove the transmission oil pan. Be prepared for some oil spillage from the valve body. 4) Remove the screen, observing scrupulous cleanliness when working inside this area. Note how it is installed very carefully.5) Attached to the transmission are magnets, designed to trap metallic shaving before they can damage the transmission. Clean these thoroughly.6) Clean the transmission oil pan thoroughly and allow it to dry completely.7) Using a new filter, install it correctly into its location.8) Using a new transmission oil pan gasket, install the pan and tighten to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. Do this slowly and incrementally; it is possible to warp the pan on installation.9) Top up the oil level if much was lost - observe proper top-up procedures and never overfill the transmission. Check for leaks from the drain plug and oil pan gasket. If you overfill, transmission fluid will be ejected from the fill tube and there is a risk of damaging the unit. 10) Road test the vehicle.11) Check the oil level once again, ensuring that it is neither underfilled nor overfilled.
1993 Volvo 940T wagon bulb monitor lights up only
Make sure all bulbs match in wattage, manufacturer and condition.Also ensure the connections in the bulb circuit harness connector are clean. Those bulb monitor sensors are a special kind of relay. It can detect one bulb out. If two bulbs fail, you wouldn't get a warning. Sometimes I find dirty connections at the base of the sensor itself and cleaning those fixes it. The entire affair is installed into a red cylindrical shaped canister in the electrical center. These sensors are very sensitive to resistance differentials. I've gone through this many times with these sensors and the only real way to fix the issue (provided the sensor isn't faulty) is to change every bulb including the third brake light all at the same time, clean every ground and connection point, reinstall the ground tabs back to the body and meter each component out with a decent high-impedance ohmmegger if needed. It's a pain, and sometimes I end up just removing the indicator from the dash cluster and simply inspect each week. They are known to be overly sensitive especially when aftermarket radios and trailer wiring are installed. Note on trailer wiring: always install that into a separate branch circuit, preferably bypassing the unit as it could become damaged and then your headlights will stop working as well. Good luck and keep me posted should you need more help.
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