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1993 Volvo 940 Questions & Answers
Diagram for fuelline 940 volvo
If you are intending on replacing the check valve washer, it's recommended that you replace the check valve at the same time. If you try to match this it's a best guess and if you miss, you are guaranteed a leak and a potential fire hazard as well, not to mention possibly burning out the main pump. If the main pump fails, the engine will not run.
Here's where I get my Volvo 7xx 9xx stuff at the best price with the best service (and your part complete with washer is here, $15.95):
Volvo Fuel Pump Check Valve Bosch 1587010539
So I have a 1993 940 Volvo. My a/c works but only
This is usually related to a failed vacuum check valve under the hood. It is connected to a large hose that runs directly to the throttle body. If it's stuck shut, the default is to direct the air to the floor plenums only, since you're not getting a vacuum feed into the control unit. Check by swapping in a known good unit or for a very quick check, remove the valve and install the hose directly onto the other line running into the car. If your modes work, that's the issue. If they still don't work, then the hose leading into the control unit is broken. If the hose is ok, then you're going to need to check the control unit itself (go to any pick-a-part, these can be had for a few dollars and I've rarely seen a bad one) and test by swapping it out. If that's ok, then it's time to check the vacuum motors and their connections and that can be a pig since you'll need to remove some interior components to get at them.
I need to replace the
Hi,
Unscrew the idle pulley first.
Look for a small pulley where the a/c belt passes through. That is the idle pulley, the screw on the bracket of that idle is on the top side where you could adjust to loosen the tension of the belt. Before loosening it, loosen the bolt on the front of idle pulley.
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My 1993 volvo 940 has
Ok. if you have made sure you have ignition spark at the spark plugs by turning over the engine with a spark plug wire off and held next to the block and you have also made sure your Fuel injection is pulsing and putting fuel into the engine, start from scratch.Pull out all your spark plugs,clean them off check the gap and let the cylinders dry out.The put them back,turn the key to on and make sure again that y our fuel injection is priming the system.Then spin the engine over.if you are still not getting the car to start,then you may need to check and make sure your camshaft is not broken by spinning the engine over and making sure you have spark at each plug.Try that and repost.Good luck.
Were is the. Fuel pump reset. Switch. On. A 1993
I do not believe there is a reset switch. Your problem is likely a fuel pump relay. This is a white relay behind the ashtray in the center console. Remove it and replace it.
OR...If you are handy open the case and pull it out of the case noting the way it came out.
You should resolder the circuit board that holds two relays using silver solder.
You should also clean out the relay contacts. This can
be done by folding as sliver of fine abrasive paper so that both sides can
work the contacts. Hold the abrasive sliver with tweezers and work it in
between the contacts. If the plating on the contacts is badly burnt, pitted or corroded, you should just replace the replay , as it will fail again.
New relay is around $50.
Please vote if this helped! Thanks, Mike
I just purchased this Volvo
I take it that the car still runs more-or-less OK?
The first thing to do is to reset the light and see if it comes back. The quickest way to reset the light is to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. If you do it that way, you will probably have to punch in the anti theft code and reset the radio station presets in your radio if you still have the original radio.
The second thing to do, if you are so inclined, is to buy a service manual that tells you how to read the codes to see what the car thinks its problem is. On a '93, there should be a LED that flashes the codes. Bentley is the best manual but expensive. A Chiltons manual or similar should be available much cheaper and will have the information that you need. Check the library. You might get lucky.
The most common check engine light on any car is leaking (loose) gas cap. I don't think that a '93 Volvo would detect that, however, so the next most common cause of a light is the oxygen sensor. If this is the original oxygen sensor in this car, it is shot and needs to be replaced. Good luck getting that rusty old thing out of there. If you want to replace it, soak it with penetrating oil every day for several days before trying to loosen it.
This car has a heated oxygen sensor, so a failed heater in the sensor or a problem with the sensor heater circuit from the fuse box to the sensor can cause a check engine light. I had an intermittent connection in the sensor heater circuit on my '91 that drove me crazy for years until I finally ran a new wire all the way from the fuse box to my oxygen sensor plug. No more check engine light.
What you really want to know is "Can I drive this thing to work?" The short answer is - it will probably be fine. If the light stays on, it is most likely that the system is running "open loop" meaning that it is not reading its oxygen sensor and trimming the fuel mixture properly. This will knock about 10 mpg off your highway mileage, which really stinks at $4 a gallon, but the car will get you back and forth to work.
Running over-rich in open loop mode is not good for the engine, but there is almost zero chance that you will do any serious damage to the car if you drive it all summer with the check engine light on.
For excellent free advice from Volvo enthusiasts and a wealth of RWD (rear-wheel drive) Volvo information, visit the website called the Brickboard. For inexpensive parts on line, go to Autohaus Arizona, FCP Groton, or IPD (there are many other excellent on-line vendors as well)
Good luck. I was a starving student once too. A student is now driving my old Volvo wagon. It has 300k+ miles on it and looks and runs great.
Parking lights work head lights
Hello and welcome to FixYa!
As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 5mins. or more before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get your vehicle back to it's normal operation.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
Vehicle is not starting, engine turning over but
remove the air intake snorkel and look into the intake,you will see a throttle plate.this is the area that needs to be cleaned with intake cleaner.a toothbrush works good to clean this area until it shines don`t forget to clean the back side of the valve as well.you will have to hold the accelerator down until it starts and as soon as it starts release it.you may have another problem with the no start as well.it could be a fuel problem or ignition problem of some sort.
Emissions fault light comming on.
stop by any good parts store and have an OBII scan (fault scan) most will do it for free. Have scan done, identify fault and part that needs replacement and have parts store reset the lights for you.
I have a 1994 volvo
there is a sending unit in the gas tank, just a float attached to an arm moving a variable resistor. you need to pull the tank and replace it. given the age of the car and the labor required, you should also replace the fuel pump while you are in there if that year had the pump inside the tank. i would also call around to fabrication/machine shops and see if any of them can flush the tank. you would be surprised at what accumulates in there over the years.
12/4/2010 10:57:21 AM •
1993 Volvo 940
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1,933 views • 5 helpful votes
1993 volvo940. Fuel guage works intermittant , now
Its either a bad ground wire to the sending unit. The sending unit itself. The gauge itself.
If you ground the wire that connects to the sending unit in the tank the gauge should show full. Disconnected the gauge should show empty. this will test the gauge. Most often there is a ground wire going to the sending unit which corrodes.
Lee
I have 1992 Volvo
Underneath the alternator facing forward is a 13 mm nut which locks the alternator in place, slacken this off and the two nuts/bolts where the alternator pivots.From the left side of the car there is a 10 mm bolt which is the tensioner, slacken this untill the alternator can be moved towards the engine sufficiently to remove the belt .Reverse this procedure to replace the belt. (depending on drives to other items you may have to remove their belts as well)
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