Top 20 1992 Volvo 940 Questions & Answers

I am assuming this is a manual transmission. First check the fluid level in the brake reservoir as this feeds the clutch as well. Check under the vehicle for leaks as air in the system can cause gear change issues. Does the pedal feel different? If it feels 'Spongy' you could get a Good Mechanic to bleed the system to get any air out. Do you know if the clutch has been changed in the past? What mileage has the vehicle done? A Clutch assembly is usually only designed to last somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. How the vehicle is driven can also have a big effect on the life of the clutch.

READ USERS GUIDE IN GLOVE BOX.!!! IF LOST IS FREE, GOOGLE IT FIND IT, YOU WILL

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volvo fitted an accident shut off system, i cannot remember where it was fitted has been along time. it shuts off engine in an accident. its like a glass ball it brakes and then there is no contact turns off ecu.

Try the heater motor see if it will turn as bearing sometimes seize

The CV joint is going Bad. It's part of the drive shaft. Can get one for $60.00 to $80.00 at autozone . When do you hear the clicking sound , when making a sharp turn ?

On most front wheel drive vehicles, the front axles have what's called a CV joint on each side. These will go bad, indicated by the clicking noise you hear. This is usually due to the protective boot being torn and allowing the grease to be compromised by dirt and grime. It will not get better. It can get worse until such a time as the bearings fail and lock up. How long it will last is anyone's guess, depending on the driving conditions. But I've driven quite a few miles on one with the worst consequence being the clicking noise. The axles are completely replaceable, and this is a common maintenance item on front-wheel drive vehicles like yours. Now that they're clicking, don't try to just replace the boots themselves...the damage is most likely already done. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jan_ed8272c8c2968d14

How long has this been going on? You can drive a while with it clicking, but get it fixed sooner than later, in my opinion. Especially in the winter, the mud, water and grime will just make it worse. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jan_ed8272c8c2968d14

check for a vacuum hose leaking to the gearbox

Get all your cylinders to fire.

Check for vacuum leak.

60Ftlbs

Does the new coil produce spark if so then is there spark at the spark plugs, if not it could have a grounded rotor

Recheck your wiring, check for voltage at the positive, when ignition is on, Check voltage at the HT wire from the coil, by removing the other end and hold it close to ground while cranking the engine, be careful.....check out your points and condenser.........if your HT voltage is ok, you may have other problem.

***WARNING*** working on the SRS is dangerous if procedure is not followed exactly. Read this carefully: Electrical Air Bag SRS, and follow it to the letter. Depending on year your reset procedure for the SRS may vary, either by using the diagnostic connection under the hood or by using a jumper wire on the SRS test connection in the main electrical distribution block behind the ashtray. 2-3-2 is the OBD1 code for Incorrect Mixture Ratio: The system has compensated swiftly by additive computation and is at adaptive limit (too rich, check fuel pressure regulator and its vacuum connection to start). The other code (2-3-1) means multiplicative adaptation has taken place at idle (slow adaptation) and is at limit. Both codes usually indicate the oxygen sensor is no longer doing its job or there are major vacuum leaks in the system, usually near the intake manifold or throttle body.

Fuel system pressure testing usually will reveal the answer to that question. If your car has the Regina system it will have one pump in the tank. If the pump fails, the car will not start. If the fuel filter is partially blocked, the car usually will start but will lack power and have poor fuel mileage. For the Bosch system, which has two pumps, read on. If your car has the Bosch system then it will have two pumps. One pump is under the driver seat and the other is in the tank. The pump under the driver seat is the main pump; if it fails, the car will not run. If the tank pump fails, the car will run but the main pump will be very noisy. Additionally, the car generally will bog down making right turns as the fuel sloshes around in the tank without the rear pump working when it's under a half tank of fuel. The easiest way to tell if your car has the Bosch system is if you have a MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) connected to the air intake plumbing with a six way connector coming out of it and your ignition coil is a traditional-looking can-shaped unit bolted to the passenger side strut tower. The easiest way to tell if your car has the Regina system is by looking at the ignition coil - it will be square and bolted to the driver's side strut tower near the intake air filter. Also, the intake air filter will have a two-wire harness connected a temperature sensor at the air box instead of the MAF.

Replace with a new coil.

Probably a wheel bearing or wheel cylinder. Could also be a problem with the steering column/rack. Might be low on PS fluid? Does this happen when turning both directions?

I could help if you could provide some more detail:What does the car do just before it stalls?Does it misfire before cutting out?Does it simply die right away?Does it do this when the gas is below a half a tank?