1991 Volvo 940 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Are you sure it needs to be replaced and not reversed flushed?To reverse flush the heater core there are 2 hoses next to each other that go from the engine through the firewall disconnect them and with a garden hose run water through the nipples they where hooked up to.Most heater cores don't need to be replaced unless you see water/anti-freeze on the passenger side floor mat.

dude,go ask ur 4s agent

you mean shifter bulb , take the cover off and change the bulb go on your tube or a manual to see how it is done this should be pretty easy to do ,

No. The four cylider "red" engine is not an interference type

By drive belt do you mean the accessory drive belt ? Or are you referring to the timing belt ? A broken accy belt should not cause the car to not start unless the belt slapped around and broke something in the engine area. Check all around and under the front of the engine for damaged wires or wire connections to engine sensors that may have been damaged by the slapping belt. If its the timing belt your talking about then you need a mechanic .

what is the name of the metal line coming off the water pump,going to the heater

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank beneath the back seat which you can reach by removing the back seat.

Cheers.

how wold fix it on 740 mold

The top tips for making your car more fuel efficient are Set your cruise control to 55 mph, change your air filter, check for proper tire pressure, and don't allow your car to idle for long periods of time.----------------------------------------------------------------GM Tech2 GM Diagnostic Scanner

One of those secondaries will be the feeder for the ignition switch. The other may be for the fuse box, or may be for something else that is powered at all times-like the headlight switch. Here's how to clean it up:First take off the negative battery cable-negative first to avoid sparking. Now you can pull off the positive. Most new positive battery cables only come with one "pigtail" or secondary insulated wire. But if you tell the parts person you have a Volvo and the year, they may have a cable specifically for your car with two secondaries. Or you could try the dealer for the right cable.Barring that, if you just want to fix your old cable without buying a new one, you could take the stripped wire and crimp a new eyelet connector on the end and wrap the bare portion with several wraps of electrical tape. Now put the big cable terminal on the battery post, take off the nut on the tightener bolt, put the eyelet connector over the bolt, and tighten the nut down on the bolt. Now both secondary wires are attached? Put the negative post on and tighten it down. To avoid corrosion at the posts you can smear a little petroleum jelly (vaseline) on the post and cable connections, if you want.

Have you tested it to see if power is present at the control switch? Do this first.

check the crank sensor wiring harness. pull on the wires a bit, to see if it will crank over. it should be against the firewall in back of engine. its a 3 wire connector. they are prone to fail.if wire harness is bad, replace it. hope this helps!!

try changing the distributor cap and if that doesnt work then the coil in case the coil tower insulation is breaking down

It is variable, depending on service, but nearly always 200k miles plus.

Check the sensor that is connected to the gearbox.thank you

low brake fluid i think

what were the specific inspection details like Co, 02, CO2 and NOx readings?

furthermore, have you done any maintenance like fuel filter, oil change and spark plugs?

OK the battery in good charge should be at 12.5 volts ( as measured with a voltmeter across the terminals) When the engine is running you should expect the reading to be about 14 volts. Put the lights on ( a load on the battery) and the voltage can go as high as 14.5v. Switch everything off (I mean everything..radio etc) and disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Now put the meter in ammeter mode and measure the current between the negative terminal and the cable that is now disconnected. It should be really very low current (milliamps at most), switch on the lights to show ourself what that current drain looks like. If the residual current looks significant take out each fuse in turn and return it noting on pen and paper any drop in current when the fuse is out. This process will identify the circuit that is draining the battery. Check the wires and junctions in this circuit for shorts etc. If its lights try removing bulbs until the current drain stops If possible leave the fuse out over night on this circuit and see if this effects the battery's ability to charge and stay charged.

My volvo 940gl did exactly the same, it turned out to be the fuel injection relay. I changed it and the car ran perfectly happy for the next 2 years until I sold it.