20 Most Recent 1991 Volvo 240 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Does it only happen when you hit the brakes ?Have you pulled the wheel and looked at the hub and brakes yet ?

That is a question for a dealers parts counter orsalvage yard,not a social web site

crank sensor

Could you take out a bulb and with a testlight/probe check that you do in fact have power to that circuit .Also check that they are the correct bulb for that application I have seen people put indicator bulbs in where therse supposed to be a double filament bulb.Does the base of the bulbs lead contacts line up with the two steel terminals inside the plug?

The first thing I would suggest is to check the EGR and then the temp sensors. There can be more than one depending on the auto model. The injectors can accumulate carbon as can the O2 sensors. Both can be cleaned. 50% of the time the "cleaned" O2 sensor will work for a while, then act up again, but it gives time to come up with the $. They can be pricey. The injectors can go bad by having out of tolerance resistance. Best to check them before swapping. They're pricey also. To check, pull each cap and check with a meter after looking up the tolerance range. It took 3 of 6 to go out of tolerance on one of my vehicles before I had a noticeable performance issue. Troubleshooting tips: Pull codes first, then look closely for obvious damage and unusual noises, then test existing parts, then swap cheap parts, then get the opinion of 2 to 3 mechanics and see if their suggestions rime!

Make sure you've changed the correct relay. Next unhook the battery. Sometimes the computer will retain the fault code sent by the bad relay and think the bad relay is still there although it's been changed. On rare occasion, you can get hold of a faulty "new" part. Also check wiring associated with the relay. A bad wire or short can cause a good relay to go bad.

Dear Daveleet,Have you checked all of the bulbs and the wiring? You might also have a problem further in the wiring loom that you cannot easily access. Try checking for continuity, if you get an audible beep from this then it is likely that your wiring is not at fault.Please do let me know what more you have tried and I will advise what your other options are, but remember this is an old car, so things are going to wear out, because these components have a service life. Anyway, get in touch and with pictures of the wiring, and the bulb and I will advise.Yours sincerelyOuszen

check see if power going to blower motor using 12 volt tesl light.if yes, remove blower motor, hot wire it.if blower motor works problem in the control switch or short in blower motor wiring,if blower motor dont work when hot wired,blower motor is bad.

It's possible the shift lock solenoid, the wiring, or the fuse is bad.

Bret
RepairPal.com

EBL stands for Electric Back Light

#1 suspect is the fuel pump relay. Can you hear the fuel pump spin up for a second when you turn the key to the On position? If not, check fuses #4 and #6. Pull them out to examine them because the tips tend to corrode off fuses this old, so they can fail and still look OK until you pull them out.
If the fuses are good, take a paper clip and jumper between the #4 and #6 fuses. If the fuel pump hums and the car starts, the fuel pump relay is failing to close. That relay is up under the dash above the passenger's right foot. Look it up on a parts website so you know what it looks like. If a new fuel pump relay will not close either, then we go to the #2 suspect, which is the engine computer. The computer is behind the kick panel to the right of the passenger's right foot. The typical failure mode for the computer is that the transistor that supplies the ground for the fuel pump relay fails. Do NOT defeat this safety feature by simply grounding the fuel pump relay. If the computer has failed, get a rebuilt computer (available from many suppliers)
#3 suspect is the lead on the crank position sensor. Take a light and maybe a mirror and look at the wire that runs down between the engine and the firewall to the sensor that is attached to the top of the bell housing. If the insulation is blistering off that lead, the sensor must be replaced. This is not a bad job if you have really skinny arms and really small hands, and the sensor has not rusted in place. Do NOT drop the 10 mm bolt that holds the sensor into the hole the sensor goes in, or you will not like yourself. The reason this was not the #1 suspect is that unless this is a very low mileage '91, this sensor has almost certainly already been replaced, and the replacement sensors are better made and last forever.

did you use the teflon coated brake pads?, or coated shims? I use autozone pads already coated