Top 20 1988 Volvo 740 Questions & Answers

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I'v had that same issue. It turned out the be the fuel pump. I replaced the one in the tank as well as the one under the driver seat under the car.

go to am accredited steering specialist shop and they will have/make the right hose for you

have the flex plate for the automatic checked as it is thin and is not under stress when the brakes are off run the fault codes to determone other sensor problems

It's easy. On each bottom side of the instrument cluster is a little blank panel. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry those panels off. Then remove the philips screws. Move the stalks to their downward position and pull the cluster out. You can leave the connectors in place and quarter-turn twist the bulbs out and replace them, or if you have a lot of them burned out, remove the connectors and do all the bulbs once you're in there. If you want to experiment, head to the nearest junkyard and you'll find it's far easier than you think. :D

Remove the two trim covers at each end of the bottom of the cluster. Remove the screws and the cluster pulls straight out. Very simple

The short answer, yes. M46 models with the type J or P overdrive (depending on year and market) require a certain level of oil in the overdrive. Additionally, the overdrive is a lot like a standard automatic transmission with one gear range in theory of operation. Therefore, the hydraulic properties of said transmission do come into play here, line pressure, shifting pressure, accumulator and piston function all work together to engage or disengage the unit. Always ensure the unit is disengaged before downshifting and of course, shifting into low reverse.

Purchase a seat belt extender. Normally for larger people, the add a few feet to the overall length of the seat belt

Overdrive (assuming it's manual) is controlled by a solenoid mounted on the overdrive unit (type P) itself. On the M46 transmission, it is mounted on the lower left side. That solenoid is controlled by a relay in the electrical console, behind the ashtray. These solenoids are a known problem with the M46 and many owners install an 'overdrive delete' cover in its place.If you have an automatic, there is a relay in a similar position controlling a similar solenoid.On either transmission, trace the wires from the transmission case to the interior and verify that they are not chafed or rubbing the body ground points.

lt should be behind the front ashtray.

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It's either a faulty starter inhibitor switch or a faulty starter solenoid. The fact that the fuel pump does not power up points strongly to the inhibitor switch. Try another one, they're not expensive.

remove ash tray and there will be a small bar at the bottom ,lift gently and pull the fuse panel should now be in sight i hope this helps you

you should have two fuel filters on that car one under the car on the fuel line it sounds like its not getting fuel right when did this start after the plug and wire change or after the timeing or after the fuel rail thing have a fuel pressure test done on it

It sounds like a good size air leak somewhere in the intake system. Check all the vacuum lines for cracks or loose connections. Check for gasket leaks by spraying brake parts cleaner along the intake manifold mating surfaces and listen for an increase in engine rpm . Don't use carb cleaner for this, or you could end up with an engine fire.

Check fuel pump relay and fuse. When tank runs dry the pump overheats , then it gets covered with cold fuel and causes it lock up. Then power is sent to it by trying to start and can overload the circuit blowing 1 or both of them.

dropping fuel tank is not that hard, drive up on ramps for clearance and unbolt straps, be careful not to break fuel line when lowering tank, good luck

Hope this helps you.

A BAD WHEEL BEARING CAUSING WHEEL LOCK UP WILL CAUSE ABS LIGHT TO COME ON.CHECK ALL OF YOUR WHEELS OR TIRES AND SEE WHICH ONE THATS BARLY TURNING WHERE WHEEL BEARING SEIZING UP.

POSIBLE DIRTY INJECTORS , OR DIRTY THROTLE BODY