20 Most Recent 1988 Volvo 240 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Please check the relay first by replacing it with a new relay.

If that does not fix the wiper problem, then you might need to replace the wiper motor.

Good luck.

There is a fuse up by the Battery alone in a white receptacle with red wires. It may not be blown but is corroded. Thoroughly clean it. This feeds the Fuel pump circuit.If tat is good the white fuel pump relay under the glove box may be bad.

check ground on motor, or clean battery terminals,

put something on the peddle to engage the breaks and try wiggling the wire connectors at the break light.

Check out you tube, type in knock sensor replacement, will offer a video, lot easier than me trying to explain it to you.
Hope this helps.

I have a 1990dl 240 volvo. Tell me if there is a brake lights relay in this model.
My brake lights don't work, fuse is ok, brake switch is ok, bulbs are ok.
thanks

It has happened to me that, when ordering parts, i was given .025 oversized bearings after ordering standards. take it back apart, and double check the bearing marks. if they are what you ordered, use some micrometers or plastigage, and get the correct set.

is it in winter mode? if not the trans has a fault, and will need to be repaired by a shop that does Volvo work, or the dealer.

Sounds like a loose fitting behind the dashboard cluster. Stop knocking on it and remove the dash and take a look before you really case some jostling damage in other instruments.

Leave this one to the pros. The windshield provides support to the roof, if not properly installed the structural integrity of the roof will be greatly deminished. This won't matter if you never have a roll over crash- no one plans on them, but they do happen.

Not too bad,you have to remove fan,to get the water pump mounting bolts.take off the belt,remove the pump.Some people remove the radiator for more room ,this no big deal,just remove the top 2 bolts,remove upper,lower hoses,pull the fan cover off.You don't put RTV on gasket,also there's an small o ring that has to be replace,behind the pump.

1983 has two relays,for this replace your fuel pump relay,do both,because of age,check your changing system,1 batt,batt cables,then alt.

You need to get a Chilton manual for starters, they really have a lot of information on Volvos. The other problems you are having may be related to the wiring harness under the hood. In the center of the firewall is a big plug with a large bundle of wires running to it. Take it apart and check it to see if it is corroded, if it is, clean it out real well, pack it with dielectric grease and put it back together. This should solve most of your troubles. The 240 series were known for this problem. As for the strange shift points, that is just a Volvo thing.

wow...here it is spring and no one answered either of you? Is there a large volume of air when fan is on high? Where is it going? Or do you not hear anything from the fan? The 240 has an awesome heater. On high it would heat a small home! If no sound, your blower motor is dead assuming the fuse is good. If you hear the fan blowing, figure out where the air IS going. Note that the only way to turn the dash vents off is with the white Oreo dials. To defrost, only that button should be pressed in and dash vents off. Behind the dash switches there is a maze of short vacuum hoses. Often times, people monkey w/ these and reconnect them incorrectly. Haynes manual or Chilton's have proper diagrams. It could be that the vacuum hose coming from the manifold and entering the firewall is split on the under side and not visible, also.

Well, it could be a clogged radiator, stuck thermostat, bogus fan clutchbut it is disconcerting that it heats up at highway speeds and cools down when slowing down. This really sounds like a blown head gasket to me. Combustion gas is seeping into the coolant and overheating it. I would have a reliable shop check your coolant for the prescence of carbon monoxide. They can check it w/ a simple test kit. There should be no CO in the coolant.

Check your fuses. It's wierd but there is a certain fuse that blows and the chime is non stop!!

You're lucky it moves at all! The most common is for there to be gunk in the window switch. If you feel adventurous, it is easily possible to disassemble the switch and clean it up. Gently pry the surrounding trim up that holds the drivers master switches. There are spring clips at the front and rear that hold it in. You will see that it contains 4 identical switches. Gently pry out the drivers switch and unplug it from the harness. When you have the switch by itself, you will see the rocker is held on and pivots on two small pins on either side. Read carefully: When you do the following, be somewhere you can find small flying parts...not in the yard! With a small screwdriver, ever so gently pry the top hinge off of the pivot pin. When you do this, a tiny spring can fly off so go slowly! You'll probably see a mass of crud down in the guts of the switch and 2 silver BB's.Clean it all out w/ a solvent such as brake cleaner spray, replace the 2 BB's and spring and clip the top of the swtch back onto the pivots.
If this is more than you want to do, you can either buy a new switch or swap w/ a back window switch that works.

Wow. any number of things. Clogged fuel filter? Fuel pump relay. Try getting in the car when it's quiet around you. Turn the key to "on", not start. You should hear the fuel pumps hum for a few seconds and then stop. If you don't hear them, check your fuse box. They are labeled but I believe #6 is usually the main fuel pump fuse. If fuses are good, then it could be your fuel pump relay. These typically develop cracks in the solder and when they warm up, break contact and theengine dies. The relay is accessed by removing the 7 screws that hold your glovebox in. Slide it out as a unit. Remove the glove box bulb if you're going to be at it any great length of time or your battery will die. The relay is a white rectangular box clipped to a metal frame on the left of the now exposed innards. It has like 6-8 pins. Thump it a couple of times and see if the car will start. If it does, replacethe relay. Order online as much cheaper than dealership.
If you do hear the pumps cycle when you turn the key to on, then most likely you have a bad ignition module. Your '88 has LH2.2 so there is no crank sensor to go bad. The ignition module is mounted to the driver's side under hood by air cleaner. Small flat black rectangle w/ silver metal base.
If all this is Greek to you, try a Volvo specific forum like swedespeed.com

sounds like a defective ignition switch, not the key cylinder but the actual switch, the contacts that run the fuel pump during cranking are different than the ones that run it after start is released, this may be the problem, the run contacts are defective, fairly common concern..

hi same deal as the other guy but yours is slightly differant your computer will shut down when the voltage dropes below 7 volts or above 14 if the battery is going flat it will recover when left for a while if it has plenty of charge it maybe overcharging and again it will shut downget the voltage reg/charge rate checked first

good luck regards ray w QLD OZ