20 Most Recent 1987 Volvo 740 Questions & Answers

Run the engine til hot, check the transmission fluid... If it is dark/dirty red and smells bad, it needs to be changed. If it hasnt been changed in your knowledge in the last 40,000 miles, change it anyway. If that doesnt fix it and the fluid was very smelly even after u changed it and ran it for an hour on the road, the trans may have to be rebuilt. There are some treatments you can add and many do work well, so go to autozone or Napa and check em out. I would recommend high mileage additives anyway if the mileage is high as you'll get more life out of the transmissio...hope that helps...if so rate me..

Check relay. Should be located in fuse panel behind ashtray. Not sure which relay it is. Owners manual may give identification

Hi Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair. First you'll need to see what you are loosing at the fog light itself. Is it loosing power are ground. If you do not have power at the light then move to the switch and see if you are getting power to the switch. If your getting power to the switch then check power coming out of the switch on the other side. If power is coming out of the switch then its either the power wire going from the switch to the light OR the light itself is bad. If you do not have power to the switch then check all the fuses and relays. If you do not have ground to the light then apply ground with a wire running from the battery ground and if the light works, you'll need to trace the ground to see if there's a connector between it and the main ground. You'll need a wiring diagram of the vehicle for this step. Hope this helps and please visit my auto-repair-website at: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

I don't believe I have seen a Volvo four door hatch-back here in the US, but my guess would be child-proof locks on the rear. Open the front doors and look for any switches on the front edge of the back doors. If there aren't any, check the owner's manual before contacting your dealer.

Check/confirm the following (on 1987 models the wire harness in the engine bay is a known defect and the insulation is very prone to premature failure):1) Oil level/condition/type of oil (15W40 is the general specified oil for these cars). To rule out low engine oil pressure have the system pressure checked by an accurate gauge installed in place of the oil pressure switch. The switch itself is screwed into the block, bottom left side if you are looking at the engine from under the hood (on the exhaust side). The sensor is indeed a switch - spring-loaded and normally closed (open when there is pressure).2) The oil pressure switch wire is run around the front of the engine, secured by a sheath and clips. Check to ensure the insulation of the wire is intact and not chafing anywhere - trace it out carefully. It's a one-wire design, grounded by the threads of the sensor into the block. A good test is to disconnect the wire at the sensor and drive the car. If the light is still flickering, you have an intermittent short. 3) If the oil level is normal, its condition is good and of the correct weight, it is entirely possible that the oil pump strainer is clogged. This results in low oil pressure. The other possibility is that the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump is sticking open. In either instance (provided they are true), the oil pump should be cleaned or replaced - something that is a formidable job as removal of the oil pan involves either pulling the engine or dropping out the subframe and related components. Do not use engine oil flush treatments - they tend to overload the oil filter and cause the oil pump pressure relief valve to open and could lead to serious engine damage.These are the usual things I would check first before condemning the engine. Loss of power, rough running and metallic knocking/thumping sounds would point towards an engine rebuild, especially if they are all present at the same time. But if the engine is running well and quietly, the turbo spools and is also quiet, then start with the aforementioned electrical tests of the oil pressure sensor switch and go from there.

Hi it is possible that you Alternator is faulty,if you have access to a VoltMeter ,check the battery voltage in the morning before you try to start it you should have around 12.7 volts for a charged battery if not fully charge your battery again and check the voltage with your car running you should have around 14 volts with the engine reving at 1500 revs.ifyou get around 12 volts then your lights are taking more power from the battery than the Alternator can replace.You could also get your local garage to Drop Test your battery to see if any of the Cells are faulty

i think you should make a diagnostic and the tool Rotunda Dealer IDS can help you

check your voltage amplifier for the spark, it sits on the inside of the fender , look in your manual. If it is not grounded to the metal well it will not work right. Remove it and clean the back side, fine steel wool
does well. Or it may not be working

It amplifies the low level signal from the computer to a level that the coil can use to generate a spark

I have the benefit of having a spare one for testing.

It would not be the first one that had that problem

The other thing to check is the little coil in the distributor . It needs replacing every 100000 or so there is a spec for the resistance through it and the plate it mounts on can be loose.

OR

Find a small shop that knows volvo's and mention these 2 problems

Hello, The alternator is responsible for charging the battery. From what you have explained it sounds like a bad alternator. I may go to the person you bought the car from and ask to see documentation such as a receipt of purchase of the alternator. If he bought a new or refurbished alternator then it is defective and the place it was bought from should refund or replace it. If he got one used off another car or perhaps a junk yard then "new" can be an overstatement.

All though your car would have 2 fuel pumps (one in tank and one under drivers rocker panel) you need to replace fuel pump inside your gas tank. The gauge resistor and the fuel pump is only there and it controls the gauge in your dash.

PROBLEM WITH FUEL INJECTORS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. COULD BE A FAULTY ECM.HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED WITH A SCANNER TO CHECK FOR A FAULTY ECM .

it needs a new speedometer. a dry cable would cause the needle to jump high when it sticks then unwinds.

hi this is quite easy, look from the exhaust manifold and follow it down under car, you might have 2 of these sensors, one should be in the down pipes near the manifold, the other should be just after the catalytic converter, they look like long tubes with wires on bolted into the exhaust, they are about 11/2 long
Hope that helps........

does the engine turn over or is it locked up. Did you over heat it or is the oil empty?

a push button start should turn off the same way.

any 740/760 screen will do,