Top 20 1984 Volvo 240 Series Questions & Answers

Have you inspected the fuses?

If the fuses are fine, check the wiring to the fan resistor has power in and out.

You could run a test wire with power to the fan and test operation independently, (make sure it has a fuse in test wire).

Its either the fuse, the fan motor or a wiring fault, (eg rats have chewed it).

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Yes. Check your body grounds also and make sure they are clean and tight.

If you start the car and then remove the positive cable from the battery the car should run off of the alternator. If it dies you alternator or the wiring is bad, most likely the alternator.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

flush the radiator and check all hoses and fans!!

Are the radiator cooling fans working?

What engine do you have ?? Does the engine turn over when you hit the key ?? Have you checked for spark ?? Have you checked for fuel ??

Check to see if there is a tensioner pully that adjust the belt tightness. The tension pulley a small pulley will have two bolts on it one of them loosens and tightens the belt around the alternator and compressor USUALLY.

Hello Alexis,My name is Andres and i will help you with the problem that you are having There is no tensioner per se on the 240. The tensioning is done by moving the alternator. At the top of the alternator there is a tensioning arm with an elongated hole in it. There is a square necked screw which goes through the arm and fastens to the alternator. At the end of the arm there is an adjusting screw. As you are removing the alternator forget about the adjusting screw. Slacken the nut on the square necked screw and push the alternator to the side, releasing the tension. If the alternator won't move, loosen the flange screw underneath the alternator until it will. With the belt off remove the wires from the back of the alternator, making sure you know which goes where. Remove the two bolts you have loosened and remove the alternator. HAVE IN MIND THAT There is a problem on the older 240 series, 1984 B23F I know from personal experience, with the ground not being intact between the alternator and the metal grounding point. Please check the wiring loom before you re-install your new alternator for a good grounding wire, or you'll be wondering why your Swede won't crank when you've just replaced the alternator. If worst comes to worst, you can create a temporary ground for the alternator with a piece of copper wire. Connect one end to a good unpainted ground near the alternator(strut towers will do), and the other to the attachment bolt on the alternator mounting bracket itself. This will suffice until you can get it properly fixed

Remove the door panel and check to make sure the linkage has not fell off

Sounds very much like the printed circuit board on the instrument cluster needs to be replaced

You have a Vacuum Leak.

Two - from experience 1. Your fuel filter is 98% clogged - something sloshes around and it goes to 100% clogged and your stop. When you stop, that last 2% falls to the bottom of the filter. You fire it up and get going - repeat. 2. Your coil pack is bad and or the wires. The coil gets hot - plastic expands - begins to arc - and you stop 1 is more likely I think, especially if the service engine light is not on.

1432 clockwisebring number one piston to top dead center and look at rotor- start number one wire in that spot- if engine doesn't start and sounds funnythen you are 180% out---- bring up # one piston again and look at rotor this time it should point oppsite of where it was- redo plug wires- engine should start

place a test light between the neg battery cable and the battery see how bright the light is remove fuses til the light dims that is the circuit draining the battery glove box lights and alternator diodes so you may need to unplug the alternator it could charge and still draw down the battery when not running

The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps). A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... give it a quick tap with a wrench. For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is going to the pump). If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come to life and it may stay running until you shut it off. This trick can get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency. If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this will NOT work as there will be no power going to your pump. If this is the case, you might try the below relay bypass "jump" trick to get power going to the pump. TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMPHow to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit at your Volvo 240 fuse panel:The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel). You can make a jumper from a wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7. For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.

If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming), you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is really common under an old 240, near the pump). This test of course assumes your battery is good. If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump. thx

Check the connectors to make sure they are not getting wet or leaking, this can cause corrsion on the terminals.and intermittent operation. When it is open, fill the cavity with dielectric grease to displace any air and to occupy space where water may otherwise collect. Check the harness as well for abraided wiriing or broken grounding wires. Also make sure the grounding wires are attached to clean spot on the body including those for the turn signals. Also check to make sure the main bulkhead harness connection through the firewall is soundly attached and clean. it would not hurt to fill those cavities with dielectric grease as well for the same reasons as above. Where ground wires come together should also be inspected for corrosion and broken connections. And for added measure- replace the fuse. Even if it looks good, these can age and become intermittent.

There are 5 possible motors for that car. You should find your answer amongst the diagrams attached below: The firing orders are: 2.3L 1-3-4-2 2.8L 1-6-3-5-2-4 2.9L 1-5-3-6-2-4 2.3+2.4L (5 cylinder) 1-2-4-5-3

2.3L 4-cylinder




2.8L 6-cylinder




2.9L 6-cylinder




2.3 +2.4L 5-cylinder

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????14