20 Most Recent 1984 Volvo 240 Series - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You need to Check the Tension on the Belt. If this is Even a Little loose it will Cause this Problem and these Dummy Lights.

Check the #7 fuse,even if it looks good pull it out and check it

You may want to remove spark plug to make sure you are getting a decent spark .a nice strong blue and usualy easily visible and not weak yellow spark thats hard to see .if you have a spare spark plug no need to remove one from engine.Make sure you have a good 12v source of power to the distributor.Is your distributor electronic?should be but if points based instead you may find its time to change the points.Also your coil needs to be checked by removing the H/t lead to the distributor and checking that the coil is producing a healthy spark.Coil and spark plug test is done while some one turns engine over while other person watches. while testing do not touch while cranking as you will get severe electric shock if you do .If coil produces poor spark check you have 12v into the positive terminal while cranking if that is the case the coil needs replacing unless the points are no good,if fitted and not electronic.Let me know how you go and if you have no luck starting glad to go further with help and advice

HAS THE LARGE VACUUM LINE TO THE MASTER CYLINDER COLLAPSED, I.E. FLATTENED?

check all ground connections

yes or voltage regulator

yes

This is a common problem on many cars. Have you checked the alternator belt tension? When starting a car, the alternators electromagnetic field (which is what provides electrical charge in the coils) provides a resistance to the belt that drives it. If the belt is loose or glazed, it will fly around the alternator, and then go away. Hope this helps you!

Check the injection fuse that's near the battery - It's a blade type fuse in a white holder on the smaller red wire attached to the positive battery terminal.

Fuses mean short somewhere.Fuse is always live it feeds relay but in tank pump [ fuse#4or#6 i forget anyway visa versa ] is not live until this.Relay clicks once when key tuned to on and once more when key turned to crank engine it is under dash by glove box and loud enough for someone with ear at this spot to hear.In tank pump should not be live until engine starts to crank.

Check for broken, damaged or stiff wires between the ECU to coil & ECU to hall effect in dissy.
If your not technical get Auto Electrician to wiggle the wiring looms while engine is running & maybe you will find it.

Could be the window switch,motor or regulator.

no /just cycle the key a few times/sounds like you need to check other areas/why did you change the filter/how did it run before

push just below the head rest rails on the upolstry or just cut it open 3 inchs below each mount and push plastic tab

what do you mean by nothing /do you have head lights /does it crank at all/does it click /if nothing and its a auto trans pull the cover off the shifter and see if the plastic pointer move with the shifter /if not move it to in and see if it starts

Check your PCV valve. Its the device that provides ventilation to the crankcase and valve covers. If its clogged or non functional it will cause the engine to **** or blow air from an area with less resistance, which is probably the filler cap. As its blowing air out of the engine it will shoot a little bit of oil with it

Down the side of the Engine where the Alternator is there should be a few wires.
1 goes to the oil pressure sensor
Another few wires go to the Alternator there are 2 circuits one is for charging which is a little thicker which is bolted under a nut & a few smaller wires which do 2 things.There is a low current circuit that applies 12v to one side of the battery lamp on the dash & when the enging is running this 12v is on the lamp & the 12v from the battery is on the other side so the lamp is out .
If the alternater isn't turning 0 volts is coming from the alternator & the Battery lamp is on.
These smaller diameter wires are important for the monitoring & charging the battery.
If you can't get the battery lamp & other monitoring lamps on the dash to illuminate when turning the key around to run not start your going to have battery charging problems.
I suggest you check the black plastic insulation carring these wires in them may be cracked or broken.
I own a few 240 series volvo's & I think I have had just about every electrical problem possible.

Check for damaged wires in looms.
Example The black plastic tubing that contains wires may be very stiff & the wires inside of these looms my be broken.
You will need a multimeter to buzz all this out.

You say blows fuse,
Are you talking about the Blower Fan, or the Thermistat for the Compressor.
If it is the Blower Fan It may be seized as the Blower Fan motor doesn't have bearings it has a bronze bush & may be stuck. I had this fault on my 76 244DL.
I had to dismantle the whole dash pull the Blower Fan apart re grease the bush & give it a clean & re assemble. It took me allll day to pull the dash apart fix the Blower Fan motor & reasemble It works perfect now like new.

If it is the Thermistat disconnct the wire to the compressor & try a jumper wire to the compressor to see if the compressor operates. if ok it could be a damaged wire through the firewall shorting somewhere. You will have to buzz out the wires from thermistat down to the compressor & the throttle up solonoid.

Reuben, did you recieve my last email about trouble shooting your problem? I sent it a while back but I'm not sure if you received it because it doesn't show on the site here. Let me know so I can re-send. Thanks