20 Most Recent 1984 Volvo 240 Series Questions & Answers

Have you inspected the fuses?

If the fuses are fine, check the wiring to the fan resistor has power in and out.

You could run a test wire with power to the fan and test operation independently, (make sure it has a fuse in test wire).

Its either the fuse, the fan motor or a wiring fault, (eg rats have chewed it).

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Yes. Check your body grounds also and make sure they are clean and tight.

If you start the car and then remove the positive cable from the battery the car should run off of the alternator. If it dies you alternator or the wiring is bad, most likely the alternator.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Two - from experience 1. Your fuel filter is 98% clogged - something sloshes around and it goes to 100% clogged and your stop. When you stop, that last 2% falls to the bottom of the filter. You fire it up and get going - repeat. 2. Your coil pack is bad and or the wires. The coil gets hot - plastic expands - begins to arc - and you stop 1 is more likely I think, especially if the service engine light is not on.

You have a Vacuum Leak.

Are the radiator cooling fans working?

flush the radiator and check all hoses and fans!!

Sounds very much like the printed circuit board on the instrument cluster needs to be replaced

Remove the door panel and check to make sure the linkage has not fell off

What engine do you have ?? Does the engine turn over when you hit the key ?? Have you checked for spark ?? Have you checked for fuel ??

Check to see if there is a tensioner pully that adjust the belt tightness. The tension pulley a small pulley will have two bolts on it one of them loosens and tightens the belt around the alternator and compressor USUALLY.

Hello Alexis,My name is Andres and i will help you with the problem that you are having There is no tensioner per se on the 240. The tensioning is done by moving the alternator. At the top of the alternator there is a tensioning arm with an elongated hole in it. There is a square necked screw which goes through the arm and fastens to the alternator. At the end of the arm there is an adjusting screw. As you are removing the alternator forget about the adjusting screw. Slacken the nut on the square necked screw and push the alternator to the side, releasing the tension. If the alternator won't move, loosen the flange screw underneath the alternator until it will. With the belt off remove the wires from the back of the alternator, making sure you know which goes where. Remove the two bolts you have loosened and remove the alternator. HAVE IN MIND THAT There is a problem on the older 240 series, 1984 B23F I know from personal experience, with the ground not being intact between the alternator and the metal grounding point. Please check the wiring loom before you re-install your new alternator for a good grounding wire, or you'll be wondering why your Swede won't crank when you've just replaced the alternator. If worst comes to worst, you can create a temporary ground for the alternator with a piece of copper wire. Connect one end to a good unpainted ground near the alternator(strut towers will do), and the other to the attachment bolt on the alternator mounting bracket itself. This will suffice until you can get it properly fixed

You probably bent a valve when the timing belt broke.