20 Most Recent 2000 Lexus RX 300 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Could also be the O2 sensor. Wiring comes into play also.

replace the stereo

You need 5 quarts in the Lexus RX300. Beware, the RX300 has a history of engine sludge problems (just search the internet for Toyota engine sludge). I would recommend Mobil 1 (this is FULL synthetic) and for viscosity I would recommend 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer. Your manual will verify the viscosity that I have mentioned. You must use good engine oil with this vehicle or else you will have an engine sludge problem and this could cost you a new engine. The RX300 is a wonderful vehicle and very reliable, but it requires some care that you must give it or else it will cost you a lot of money and maybe leave you stranded. For instance, change the oil regularly (no more than 4000 mile intervals) and also change the transmission fluid (no more than 60000 mile intervals). Search online for transmission failures in the RX300 - you'll find that the people who did not get a transmission flush were very sorry!!

driver's window goes down and have a hard time getting it to go back up

Tank holds around 70-75 Litres and has a range of around 480 Kms. Obviously that depends on engine condition and the weight of your right foot. Don't take any notice of the readout telling you how far till empty, it will still keep going when reading 0 Km, just don't risk it too long.

try replacing the oil preasure switch, if that doesnt solve your problem then have your oil preasure tested, if it really doesnt have oil preasure it will cause internal engine damage so start with the switch and then go from there, hope this is helpful.

check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. if its low it will turn on the brake warning light. top up if low and make sure the light sensor float is moving freely. then check the e-brake switch and make sure it is in the fully off position when the e-brake is fully off. its usually one of the two that turns it on. have you check for a brake fluid leak. if its has ABS it could be a problem with the hydraulic unit however the ABS light is usually on at the same time.

Try this little cheap trick, happens all the time

Knock sensor controls ignition timing. It should have no control on transmission shifting. Did you disconnect/remove anything else to access the knock sensor? Was the battery disconnected? If so, a relearn procedure may be required for trans module etc relearn shift points while you drive the vehicle

take it to jiffy lube

Call any auto parts store and tell them what you have and they will tell you the gap setting

You have a bad ground wire somewhere; probably right off the drivers side door. It may be difficult to locate because all the window switches are wired to the master control switch on the driver side door. I often find the wire breaks somewhere in the conduit between the door and the dash. All the opening and closing of the door damages the wire, particularly when the wire doesn't have any room to flex. Once you find it and bypass the broken connection all the switches will work. Start with the connections on the switch and work your way to the dash. You probably can find a good YouTube video that can show you how it's done. A multimeter will be very useful checking the continuity of the wires. I like to disconnect the switches in both the driver and passenger doors. I will then use a piece of wire to bridge the connections on (passenger) door connector, or ground out to the vehicle body. You can use the multimeter probes on the driver side connector to find the broken connection without tracing the whole wire harness. There should only be one hot wire that is supplied with power on the drivers side connector. Use the multimeter to find the hot wire first, using the vehicle frame as the ground, and then ignore it. Once you find the color of the wire that's broken you can just follow it along the wire harness till you find the break.

Most LIKELY is either the belt needs to be replaced or the belt tensioner needs to be replaced. The belt gets hard and "slick" as it ages, the tensioner holds the belt tightly against the pulleys. Either could cause slippage (hence the squeal) when the A/C comes on.

not sure but I will say this. most timing sets should be changed every 75 to 100k miles. its cheaper to change the belts and water pump then to pull the motor and spend thousands on 10 dollar bent valves