Don't flood it.Get it into a heated garage overnight or put a magnetic heater on the engine for 12 hours and with a STRONG battery and 1 or 0 gauge booster cables and maybe a shot of quick start.......start her up.She will.
Without looking at it how do we know what you did ! Looking at the wiring an view wiring diagrams to see what's up is what would need to be done . Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free one's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html .
Try jumping the starter with the key on. If it doesn't blow. Check the start wire for chafing and grounding out. You can pull the starter relay, Try to start it, see if it blows,yes, it is between the fuse panel and fuel pump. no. Put it in and pull the fuel pump relay. Start it. If it blows, then it is some where between the fuse panel and starter. If you have one of those intelligent fuse panels, it could be that also. You can have the codes read for it. But it takes a scanner, not a code reader.
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL-hN8BkJlI
Nov 3, 2011 - Uploaded by mccrackenphillip
As I Said Here Is Ponchos 2000 Chrysler Concord It Need AHood Latch And Batt Repair. He Hit ... How To Install ReplaceBroken Hood Release Cable and Handle ... 98 to 2004 Chrysler Concorde Factory remote Transmitter ...
Remove the 10mm bolts from the fan blade & remove it. Now you have room to work. Next drain the radiator & disconnect hoses. The small bottom ones are the transmission cooler hoses, plug them. Next remove the 2 top retainer brackets. You should now be able to pull it out.
Check carefully the battery condition and ALSO the battery connections as well as the connection to the starter motor. Low voltage systems are notoriously susceptible to corrosion and poor connections - unlike their high voltage brethren the current cannot jump over the resistance presented.
Sounds like an alternator problem...or loose/thrown belt? The Battery starts your car, but the alternator keeps it running even if bad battery...the battery light is an indicator that the charging system is not functioning...also check for dirty/corroded battery posts...Hope this helps.
If it overheated and won't crank it means that the motor is ceased and would need a complete strip and rebuild if possible depends on damage caused and costs
may be cheaper to fit a used motor and get someone to look at the ceased motor for a quote on a rebuild
most important thing is to find out why it was overheating
There are panel holders made of plastic which hold the panel in and surround the door. Get at least two larger flat tipped screwdrivers, or a smaller pry bar and screwdriver, also a putty knife can aid in keeping scratches off the door
After removing the screws from the handle/armrest, remove the bolt from the latch, it has a little spring tension on it so you will need to hold it open with a screwdriver when installing.
Be careful to not scratch the door with the screwdriver by sliding
Once these are off, start on the rear bottom of the door and slowly work a flat tip screwdriver under the panel between the door and panel. (there is usually sticky tape and paper in between also).
Use a flashlight and while prying, locate the holder nearest the panel corner you are working. Once you locate the holder, pry the door panel away from the door right against the holder. Once you get it started it is easy to work the bottom and sides of the panel off the door.
Once the holders are out, the panel pulls up with plastic guides at the top against the window. When re installing the panel, ensure the guides are aligned before pressing them back into place.
Funny as it may sound, the first thing I would check is the charging system. Your battery and charging system may seem to be working just fine, but it is possible that a diode or two may be bad, letting just enough current to go back into the computer causing it to malfunction. The diodes in an alternator act as one way doors. They let current go out and keep current from leaking back into the PCM (computer). So your system could appear to be working perfectly charging the battery and providing current for all the car's electrical systems, but it could also be allowing just enough current to get back into the car's computer to cause a problem. Some Chrysler 3.3L engines have a problem with the idle and transmission surging when in drive at idle, and though the car is not moving, the speedometer reads 15-20 mph! The check engine light will come on and the PCM will give transmission trouble codes. The actual problem is caused by a faulty alternator, so before you go having the transmission diagnosed, make sure that your alternator is working 100%. This MAY involve removing it for testing, but I can tell you that it's a whole lot easier than removing the transmission, or any of it's parts! Have the alternators diodes tested and hope for the best!
