Top 10 2002 Honda Odyssey Questions & Answers

I had this problem with my 2002 Odyssey. The brake lights wouldn't come on but the horn worked (rules out the fuse located under the hood, passenger side compartment). Could not get the thing out of park. I temporarily used the emergency unlock switch located on top of the steering column. (a small plastic tab can be pried out with a screwdriver and a key inserted pushes a button down releasing the shift lock. its in the manual.) The culprit was the BRAKE STOP SWITCH located above the arm of the brake pedal. VERY easy to remove and replace. And the part was at an auto part store. (fairly cheap too). The switch is a safety feature so a kid doesn't slip the van into drive accidently. Its just above the brake pedal, about the size of a C battery with a wire connected. First take the wire off by pushing the tab in on the wire connector and pulling it off the switch and tucking it away somewhere. Then get a wrench and loosen the lock nut a few turns, then unscrew the switch from the bracket. (it will be more obvious what to do when you have the new part in your hand). Then take the new switch and screw it into the hole. Push the brake down and feel on the other side of the bracket to make sure the button just clears the bracket so when you depress the button completely it is flush with the bracket face. Then get the wrench out, tighten the new lock nut and plug it back in. And hey, you fixed it. Check to see if the brake lights are working and you should be able to put it into drive by depressing the brake pedal.

I had the same problem and it ended up being the sensor for the gas door. Another symptom in my case was the gas door not openning. The sensor doubles as a spring to pop the gas door open. I didn't want to mess up my storage compartment like danielbeaty, but it was harder. I took the kickplate off and the trim from around the rear panel, and a couple of screws, and was able to reach in and unplug the sensor. I'm in the process of posting the procedure in more detail.

p0505 is directly related to the idle air control valve (sometimes called the rotary valve) i cant count how many of these i have replaced on hondas. It is located directly under the throttle body so it can be difficult to replace. I would recommend you having a professional replace this due to the difficulty of the valve removal

ok check the sliding door on the side the fuel door is on. there is a safety mech. there the door needs to be closed all the way. if its not you can't open the fuel door. so slam that door then find out where and how it keeps the fuel door from opening. because if you open the door with the fuel door open it may damage fuel door

i have 2002 honda odyssey
nowadys engine ang tcs light come on with P0131,0132,P0136,P0137

ENGINE

- Compression: face your fears, it could be a bad engine
- Oil: maintenance item, part of basic tune up, dirty oil bad for fuel economy, can try lighter weight (0W-30) to minimally increase fuel economy
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): influences fuel trim
- Knock Sensor: can ****** timing if malfunctioning
- Coolant Temperature Sensor: influences fuel trim, on startup, cold engines need rich mixture, if malfunctioning you will always run rich, wasting fuel
- Thermostat: if stuck open, engine will remain too cool, failing to reach ideal operating temp; you can actually buy thermostats with a higher opening temp (stock is 170 for 5g, higher ones available at 180) to keep engine at higher temp, increasing efficiency (but possibly increasing wear to other components through increased heat exposure, eg, the cooling system)


ELECTRICAL
- Grounds: if corroded, weakened spark, incomplete burning, poor efficiency
- Ignition coil: if on its way out, won't ramp up voltage for spark plugs, get poor spark
- Ignition Timing: check it
- Distributor Cap and Rotor: wear item, part of basic tune up
- Distributor: check it
- Spark plugs: wear item, part of basic tune up
- Spark plug wires: wear item, part of basic tune up


AIR
- Filter: wear item, part of basic tube up, clean or replace it
- MAP Sensor (Mass Airflow): influences fuel trim
- PCV valve
- EGR valve
- EGR intake ports
- Throttle body, IACV
- Catalytic Converter: check if blocked
- Primary Oxygen Sensor: influences fuel trim


FUEL
- Fuel Tank: can be dirty or contaminated
- Fuel Pump: on its way out equals low fuel pressure
- Fuel Filter
- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Fuel Injectors: dirty, clogged, stuck open


TIRES/BRAKES
- Tire Pressure: this is huge, just check them, you'll be surprised
- Alignment: check it (This is my guess maybe with having the ball joints and tie rods pulled to remove the axles)
- Brakes: check for drag

If you pull the glove compartment out it should be back and to the right side with a bunch of wires going to it. I have never actually worked on this particular vehicle, but thats what the book shows.

I am currently doing the front driver side. If you have the big center nut without a cotter pin, I would suggest you have a shop do it. There is no way to remove and install lug bolts on this particular vehicle without removing the hub, and this hub SUCKS to remove. Here is what I did, and NO, I do not recommend doing it this way. Remove wheel and brake caliper assy. Suspend brake to keep weight off the brake line. Remove two philips head screws holding rotor to hub. These screws can be frozer tight. I used an impact type screwdriver to remove these. Remove the large nut..lmao...sounds easy. This nut is 36mm but i got away with using a 1-7/16 6 sided impact socket with a 1inch impact wrench. A huge breaker bar would work as well. I imagine the foot pounds to be astronomical and I doubt most saturday mechs will have the tools to remove it. Put the rotor back on, but backwards. Use a couple of lug nuts to bolt it to the hub. There is enough left of the broken lugs to use them. I then took a typical harmonic balance removal tool and utilized the two holes that had the philips head screws. Using the spindle as my center, I applied pressure to the spindle, causing it to retreat back into the hole. When the pressure got decent, I took two small pry type tools and put them between the back of the hub and fixed piece, probably called a steering knuckle or something. Kept wiggling and prying little by little...added a little more balancer pressure...more prying...it works it way out..finally. I believe the manual says to use a large slide hammer system to remove the hub. Wish I had one. Hammer out the old studs, press in the new. You can also using open lug nuts to pull the studs flush. Just make sure the splines are lined up. Assy is much much easier.

Trouble Code: P1676
TCM A/T FI Data Line Circuit Malfunction
Trouble Code Conditions: Key on or engine running, and the PCM detected an unexpected voltage condition on the TCM FI Data Line circuit during the test.
Possible Causes:


A/T FI data line is open or shorted to ground . A/T FI data line is shorted to VREF or system power. TCM or PCM has failed .Here is what is listed for the Honda Odyssey.

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