No heat new thermostat blows good was told may be
easy is in the eye of the beholder and skill sets.you could read the manual (FSM) and assess that for your self.so you are saying the engine coolant thermostat is good and is at180F or more all the time , hot, holding.and that this hot coolant fails to reach the heater core?right? it can only be 2 things, 1: that valve some cars have.2: or path is clogged.3: some cars have a damper that blocks the core , so if that is stuck then bingo.may be? why guess. do the tests to find the facts.or guess and guess wrong. $$$$if you really want the facts, go to alldata.com $15 year DIY subs.and read the HVAC section, or get the Full FSM from Honda or Helm.? or anywhere.in the book they tell you how to conduct these simple tests.here is the heater valve test.there are 2 water hoses from engine to cab, on right hand sideof RHD car. (usa)a top hoseand bottom hose. the bottom hose has a valve there.the test:engine hot. 180F +heater on max. fan max too.both sides of vavle, that is both sides of valve hosesjust be real hot, so hot hand jumps back after 5sec touch.this is NORMAL.if not hot both sides, the coolant is NOT flowing.if not flowing , make sure valve is opening on demand.if it is , this path is filthy and is packed up. (forgot the 2year flush and fill?s)the valve is cable operatedhave person one adjust dash temp lever from min to maxthen person two ,look at the water valve , does that lever, movefrom min to max.>?the cable must be adjusted, if (messed with prev.)dash temp to 60F.take out all slick at cable, at valve, using. cable clamp next to valve.keep in mind , if the heater core,is cold.the valve is bad, stuck or cloggedor the core is packed in crudor the hoses associated to all this are packed.i can tell you guessing will be expensive.