1998 Honda Accord - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Get a service manual from Autozone or a similar store. They usually run about $25. If you pull it out to check it, you might as well change it out. Most tranny filters are internal to a metal outer piece and there's no way to "check" them. Be sure to use fresh transmission fluid and make sure it's the right TYPE. The store can help you out with this as well.

Hello: You didn't state whether your car had an automatic or manual transmission, but most speed sensors are on the top of the transmission.

Well this is a new one to me ,these cars are bullet proof and never give problems like this ,this model is the same as the rover 400 series and even though the company has gone bust the spanish that have these cars cars here with the honda engine swear by them .Even the honda model itself is popular as the trust brick ,now the speed sensor is the one in the gearbox passenger side LHD vehicles and sits on top of the output drive shaft but even if this is disconnected the car will still run just that the speedo doesnt work so i would not trust the code read out in this case now without my head under the engine bay i honestly could not give a answer but i would suspect a fuel problem but why did the dash lights go out as well ?? the mind boggles here so either its a multitude of problems or a electronic problem thats cutting the fuel pump and the ignition off and to find this sort of fault you would need the dealers software to into the computer to see whats happening --but this is the first time i have heard of a HONDA giving problems like this .

English please, use google TRANSLATE

this is a car form for 1998 Honda Accord please post to offroad or ATV. for faster and for sure accurate answers. and buy the FSM for you ATV. it covers this. i can tell you no parts in the spark systems are optional. if we had a schematic I can tell you which each does. my guess is, corrosion bad connections that kill all toys fast ATV, motorcycles, snow cats, whatever, the get wet and corrode. bad grounds too.

Diodes are a one way circuit ( a sort of non return valve so to speak for electricity) IF it is good it will be continuous circuit one way and an open circuit the other . You ,mention handle bars so I take it that you are talking motor bike. There is a kill switch on the handle bars that is an emergency stop for the engine and it is very easy to turn it off when manouvering the bike . Check this is on or there will be no ignition circuit.

why not do the tests and not make assumptions. its an old car. let reality win. it always does..... on all machines. what will be , will be...... its just and electric window. 1: guides jammmed.>? feel them. 2; motor dead, got 12vdc to it. y./n 3: no 12v to moto?r,. must be bad switch, its got 0v out.? i the check input. 4; oops the switch has no 12v input, dang the fuse blew. dang the wire fell off. it. dang the connector is corroded. a $10 walfart meter and im guessing free...... the FSM covers this, why not read it. all cars,

if engine is running bad, there is huge lethal Carbon Monoxide present in exhaust, so keep this beast outside, and not park in any snow banks. and keep the non recirc, fan on , while in car. as a precaution. now find a muffler shop and tell him/her, fix my exhaust holes. adding oil . ./ is normal for all cars. faster you drive the more oil. how much oil,? 1qt/3000 miles is ok, 1qt in 1000 is a ver tired/old engine. on old cars, check oil every fill up. until you learn your rate of consumption..

no engine option stated, so , impossible. the dizzy timing is way off, if in fact its a dizzy car. (distributor) if not dizzy the cam CMP sensor is loose or some one fiddled it blind. timing way to far advanced so use a stroble light and set the timing to spec reading how to do that in the FSM. (open hood lookup there is the static timiing spec, right there on all usa cars 1998. to set timing the book shows the timing freeze jumper. EFI needs that. dont drive an pinging engine, or the pistons will shatter. i warned you !-

this is a honda, Mitsubishi, Id love to see, it , do post photo's...... so , go back with a flash light, bingo, ? is this post tire changed, or before. if after, car drives so go to any tire store, and ask them to fix this and issue new locks. always carry a flash light..... or repeat this.

this is a TCM (tranny brain) operated, A/T so scan it, in this old car , it either scans with the PCM or has its own blink codes, the TCM. D4 means, TCM is Unhappy, please scan me for lastest news ! the engine too, is bad. but id fix that first because the tranny brain uses,. 4 engine sensors to run' so scan the PCM (engine brain) first. fix that first. alldata.com has all this.. every word every step. why not read that.? connect scan tool $9 tools work, and scan the PCM. (ask) get all DTCs (errorrs) and most them,, here ill also lookup how to scan your old TCM now. here is lots for free books on this car. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ the PCM when scanned will report 10 unique DTC errors for the transmission. and VSS, ECT, TPS, and CKP sensors must be good or the tranny will fault. 98 http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto/Manuals/Accord/Ab0VE.Honda%20Accord%20ESM%2098-00_CD_ISO.zip

im not look'g it up. that code, (i use alldata.com to be 100% correct) but DOES you car have A/T or m/t auto or stick tranny? if A/T the PRNLD switch is bad. if M/T it the clutch switch. next quesiton where is it, answer , on right side of most tranny a/T next question, how to get it off, answer, it unplugs and unscrews next question, where can i get one, answer, honda, or any car store. easy peasy

If it cranks but won't start, do you have spark and normal fuel pressure ?

power steering pump might be leaking put a piece of card board down and see if theres any fluid on it if so you have a leak you can fix it your self or if not hit me up I will come out and look at it and fix it to your likeing ok

Possible problems: MAP (manifold absolute pressure) Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, or distributor pick-up sensor (will end up being a while distributor. Start by running the codes and see what comes up. If there's nothing stored in the system, try unplugging the above sensors to determine if they throw a code when disconnected. If they do, then more on to checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail pressure port (looks like an Schraeder valve on a tire). You want 35 psi minimum. If you don't have 35 + psi, change the fuel filter, then look at the pump next if pressure doesn't come up.

check alternator main fuse is ok and check battery terminals clean and secured properly ,earth cable from battery to body and body to engine clean on contacts and secure ,if it still does not charge you can run a wire insulated from main connector on alternator straight to the positive of battery to rule out a break in power feed wire from alternator to the battery , is the alternator/baterry light staying on?

There was a recall related to this a few years ago. I know because my engine began shutting off on the interstate and other driving situations. You may be able to search for the recall or just take it in to a Honda dealership and tell them that you received a recall notice related to your ignition switch a while back and your car has been stalling out while driving. I believe a replacement of the ignition switch will fix your problem. I haven't had any problems since. The dealership shouldn't charge you anything for the repair.

do all 4 hazards work? passenger side, light what is that. inside car, or out, if out that is parking side lamps. they are burned out. if only they are out. bad bulbs the fuses for blinkers and hazzard must be checked first.

stalls. hot or cold , does fast right foot save it easy? critical test, that.!! there are 50 things to stall it. but only 5 basics. but need to know the fast foot answer

p1259 (you scan that or autozoned?) the honda FSM covers this best but in brief Vtec mess up... varible valve timing magic. http://engine-codes.com/p1259_honda.html