Top 20 1996 Honda Civic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

This can be cause by airfilter clogged up,to a failed MAP sensor to a coolant temperature reporting lower temperature than it normnally is,to a leaky injector or pressure regulator, or a 02 sensor that is lean bias. You basically need to check for codes,

check ground wire for the radio,

it could be a vacuum line , or an oxygen sensor,

The fuse panel is on the lower drivers side of the dashboard, approx where your left knee would be if sitting in the seat. There is a small rectangular panel that pulls down to reveal the fuse panel, and usually there is a diagram on the inside of the pull down panel to tell you where a certain fuse is located

try changing the thermostat and make sure all the air is bled out of the system this should help your heat problem.before changing the stat with the motor at operating temperature grab the heater hoses to see if they are the same temperature or not.if they are the same then change the stat.if not the same temp then the heater core may be plugged or partially plugged and will have to be changed.still change the stat as they do get tired and won`t work properly.

I not that familiar with the honda civic vtec, but most cars have a voltage regulator for the battery. Many of the new alternators have this item belt-in, but others are separate components. You may want to check to see what your design is for your model.al.ames

Brake lights usually activated by a micro switch at back of brake pedal. Worth checking switch is working or no wires loose

You need to have your system pressure tested. There is obviously a leak which is causing an air pocket. The pocket causes the temperature fluctuations. This could be as simple as a pinhole leak that caused the pocket over time or as complex as a head gasket allowing pressure to build up in the coolant system can cause fluent to leak out the overflow.

YOU SHOULD TRY THE IAVC SENSOR TAKE IT OFF AND CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IF IN BAD CONDITION

You have to check for leaks under the car. Look at the gas tank, usually they leak but wont make it to the ground. If you see that the tank has any wet spots coming from the top around to the bottom, then the leak is at the sending unit. Follow the fuel lines up to the engine, looking for wet spots. Under the hood, find the fuel filter check this for wet spots, then check all the injectors, these can leak at the top or bottom, usually top. Best way to tell is start the car and then check the injectors. If they are leaking it could be a drip or spray.

If it only does it during braking, it's not an axle. Likely culprits are warped rotors or bad suspension bushings.

A warpped rotor will cause the brakes on that rotor to grab and release as the rotor goes around, causing a shake. This is often felt in the brake pedal as a pulsing as well.

Failed front suspesion bushings can cause this as well, esppecially on front wheel drive cars.. When you are accelerating, your wheels are pulling the control arms forward, but when you brake, the control arms are pushed backwards. So, depending on what bushings are worn out, your alignment can change pretty drastically going from accelerating to braking or vice-versa. This would also account for the moving/hitting sensation you described. To check this you need to jack up the front of the vehicle and check the control arm bushings, as well as any other bushings for links/parts connected to the control arm.

If your fan is not working, its almost certainly the blower motor resistor. Also called blower control switch. They go out a lot on Civic from the 90s. Its under the dash board on the passenger side near the blower motor.

not normally however they both are attached to the vacuum system , the brakes have a booster which is run off the manifold vacuum, and so is the PVC valve,, I would check for any vacuum leaks in the system, and replace the PVC valve,, they are cheap

it takes a bit for the gas to get up to carb after running out. you just need to pump the heck out of gas peddle while trying to start car. or have some one pour a little gas in carb to prime it . hope this helps

This is an easy fix and very common to civics. When I bought my car it had the same exact thing and I bought this part (plug) at the junk yard for 2.00 dollars and you can start by removing the driver side fender and you will see a black rubber that covers the plug with all the wiring that runs too the door cut the plug off and replace it with a good plug with the one your going too buy at the junk yard you can use tape or anything that wont make contact with the other wires but what sucks about it is that you need too do it one by one and just match the wire colors together and good as new hope this helps!

Hi Frito and Fion, Does the window work in any direction from either control. If it does that will mean the motor is undamaged. The most common problem is the switch. Get another, new or second hand and try fitting that. If the motor has burned out it will have to be replaced. Try the switches and if that fails we'll go through the bigger job together. Regards Johngee10

It could be several things. Start with the most simplest things like replacing the fuel filter, air filter and running a fuel system cleaner through the engine. A clogged catalytic converter can also be a reason for poor accelleration. Are there any trouble lights on the dash like the engine light or check engine light? Have your charging system checked as well just to make sure everything is up to par. This can be done for free at nearly any autoparts store like Advanced Autoparts or Auto Zone. Other possibilities could include water or other foreign substances in the fuel tank/system, a failing fuel pump and clogged injectors if the engine is fuel injected. Hope this helps.

Pump the clutch pedal and then check for leaks again, including under the dash where the rod from the pedal goes into the clutch master cylinder. Once you find the leak, replace what's leaking and bleed the system to restore the pressure (bleeds from the slave unit, just like bleeding brakes)

Hi,
The problem would be the power window switch assembly! That switch controls the power to ur window motors! If u are a tinkering man, try to borrow from any garage/friend w/ the same window switch and test it!
Or
Go to ur service center and have them check it for free... they always try the new switch... and you will know the main prob!

If your brakes system has no air in it...Your master cylinder or brake booster is bad.