20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

Get the whole muffler be checked by any of the exhaust system repairing shops.

Check Fuse #9 under the hood its for DLC Power and Immobilizer System (10 Amp).

Look at the TDC wire harness. Sometimes the wire isnt put back in the holder on the rear edge of the timing cover. Then the harness gets sawed in half by the alternator belt.

Other Honda user had this problem on his 2005 Accord, after letting it sit battery disconnected for 20 minutes it was just fine. Inmobilizer for the lose.

My guess is your immobilizer kicked in because your battery in your key is dead.

So, I dont warranted if this process work...
Here is a better understanding of how a immobilizer works; each key has a code imprinted on it, no battery of any type just a random code. When you go to start the car the immobilizer computer sends a signal to the key. If the signal it receives back from the key matches one of the 5 keys it keeps in its memory, it sends a "OK start" message to the PCM starting the car. If it doesn't see the "OK start" signal it doesn't start and the green key light in the dash flashes. In short there is no way to reset it.

Try another key. If not, there is a way to bypass it shortly to get the car to a Honda dealership for reprogramming of a key or key replacement. Your Prelude may also have a problem with one of these components. It will need to be hooked up to a Honda scan tool and checked for immobilizer codes.Let me know if you have any questions. I'm a 6 year factory Honda tec.

I will try and answer all I can.Here is how to use the "pcm brake code" You weill need to call your local dealership and give them you vin # to get the code.To start the engine, follow this procedure:
1. Cut a temporary key using the key code and anon-transponder key blank.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with thetemporary key.
3. Enter the first digit of the immobilizer brake codeby pressing and releasing the e-brake pedal the samenumber of times as the digit. For example, if thefirst digit is 4, press and release the e-brake pedal 4 times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to Lock (0) and then backON (II).
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to enter the second, third,fourth, and fifth digits of the code. You have up to30 seconds to enter each digit.
6. After you enter the fifth digit, the immobilizerindicator on the dash will blink five times,meaning you can now start the engine with thetemporary key.While the engine is running, the immobilizerindicator will stay on. If the engine isn't started with in 10 minutes, you'll have to reenter theimmobilizer brake code. You'll also have to reenterthe code if the engine is shut off for more than 10 minutes.This also workes for any Honda immobilizer system. However you need to use the brake pedal. Only preludes you used the e-brake.

Good luck.

A bad TPS causes a hesitation in the same spot when you accelerate. It's like a dead spot.

check the light switch on the stalk. Also check the relay it will be under the bonnet . Voltage should be supplied t0 the relay when light switch turned on and then relay should click on and voltage 12 v should be switched to the headlight from the switched relay contacts. Suspect worn light switch . You could run a wire from 12v to contact on relay that powers the coil on the relay to prove if relay works and switch is cause of your problem

Hello,

Not good.

Wrong filter, damaged filter or filter not tight enough.

Double check.

Did you get an oil light on dash (2 quarts low).
The computer may have shut the engine down before engine failure if you are lucky (oil light). If you did not blow your engine (sieze) and you fix the filter problem put some 'lucas' oil in your engine to help with excessive friction caused by low oil level.

I hope this helps.

You may need to bleed the slave cylinder. If that doesn't work, replace the master cylinder.

probabbly the transmission mounts, or if its standard it could be that the Synchros if it has any is damaged, or your clutched is totatlly messed up

Might have air in the system. With engine cool, take radiator cap off and start car. Let it come to operating temp and ensure fan kicks on/off as it should. Keep hands clear of rotating parts - fans, belts, motors. Replace cap and make sure there is water in the overflow reservoir.

the "dimmer switch" is part of the combination switch. They wear down, internally - I've taken apart a used one, so I know. Also, the headlamp connectors like to corrode on that model year ( I also have 96 civic, and had to replace a headlamp connector). https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1996-honda-civic-4dr_ex-ka-4at/combination-switch.html (parts 8 and 9)

Disconnecting any sensor will cause a non working car to work suddenly.I would check two things. 1. The Transmission control module- vary rare issue. 2. the ignition control module. These break down a lot in Honda's. In the 96-98 model of the civic, the dash uses the tach built into the ignition control module. the 99-00 model doesn't use the ICM tach signal, but uses the same module. Test your ICM with a digital multi meter ($5 @ harbor frieght), before dropping $60- 140 on one.

my guess would be that the wiring that runs from the car to that door is probably shorted inside the rubber boot. pull it back and check the wiring in there

You have a loose harness plug that goes into the back panel of the meters under the dash. Make sure it is plugged in well. You can use a long wood dowel to push it in. Make sure the other connections you can see anywhere are good an tight also'
Mike

The fuel pump is controlled by the PGM-fi main relay. If there is no power to the fuel pump,check this relay

This vehicle should be fuel injected and has no choke