20 Most Recent 1993 Honda Prelude - Page 6 Questions & Answers

ITS FROM 750 TO 1800 INSTALLED.

Low / uneven idle problem can cause by a lot of components.

Dirty air filter

Dirty injectors + o-rings

Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.

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For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.


Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.


Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.


Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the ROM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.


PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

Timing is right, but the firing order is incorrect then it could not start. Make sure connection at the spark plug is in the firing order. Let get back to the basic: need spark and fuel. After several cranking, take plug # 1 out to see if it wet. If it is wet then you have fuel. If it is dry then you don't have fuel. Start to find out what is the root cause for fuel not coming. Now touch the spark plug to the engine chassis and have a helper to start engine. If there is spark strong then you have spark. If no spark then you know what to do: find the root cause of the problem. If you have spark and fuel then need to recheck timing by Top Dead Center: Piston #1 is up, mark at camshaft and 0 mark at crankshaft all line up together while intake and exhaust valve closed. Good luck.

yes car may not start if gaske is blown ,low compression or coolant in cylinders. price 750.00?

it's on the in take plenum underneath the runners u should be able to see it from the top of the motor . Also check coolant level if the rpms fluctuate due to the coolant temp sensor not submerged in coolant.

The speedometer is electronic, and uses pulses generated by the speed sensor to determine vehicle speed.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Unplug the electrical connector from the speed sensor (it's a 3-prong connector that clips onto the speed sensor, which is on the transaxle. Follow the cable down if you can).
Remove the three bolts securing the speed sensor to the transaxle.
Remove the sensor from the tranaxle. Be careful not the lose the drive link. It is a very small part that connects the sensor to the transaxle. It is at the bottom of the sensor, inside, and at the top of where the sensor connects to the transaxle. (It might have gotten lost during the engine switch, if they used your original speed sensor but connected to a transaxle that was with the new engine, or was removed from the car in order to connect it to the engine before it was installed). You might be lucky and find out that they simply didn't plug the connector back into the sensor.
Sensor installation is the reverse of removal.
I hope this is helpful.

get a NADA book at Autozone for this info.

You can go on eBay and get an f22b DOHC (non-Vtec). They are about $300. less and have the same 160 HP. All you really need to do is swap your intake (because you want every vacuum hose going back to it's original position and the JDM fuel rail is on the wrong side compared to us in the US). You'll need your old engine's wiring harness because theirs are cut out and you don't know if you're getting a motor that was automatic or manual. Certainly keep your old engine right beside you as you do the swap because you'll need your distributor since you don't know if theirs had an external coil or internal coil. I've had 3 of these JDM motors in my racecar, it's the same power, just seems like the peak HP is later in the rev, like maybe less torque but more top end.

There are a few temperature sending sensors on the head and depending on the outside temp or driving temp it might not turn on when the car is off. If you have replaced your coolant recently it might be keeping the engine cool to the point of not needing to come on with car the off.

Try changing the Transmission oil - can solve a host of problems, including rough changes.

Is it just above the oil filter which is left rear of engine.
The oil pressure switch is there and famous for leaking.

Go to auto store pep Boys ect. Locate book for your engine, write down wiring diagram.

My friend had this problem. The automatic locks armature sticks sometimes replace them. Two check for a short in the door wiring.

Your public library will have a manual covering your mechanical repair. Moreover, they have the automotive shops online software called AllData. It is the best auto technician database available today. You can print out specific troubleshooting procedures, diagrams, step-by-step istructions, and soforth. The typical person cannot afford to pay for this service, just automotive dealerships, etc... that is why the public library made it available to everyone and for free to view and print out material. This should Fixya! Good Luck!

probably the main relay. under the drivers side dash

def sounds like warped rotors. doesnt take much of a warp to feel like the wheels are falling off

You either have a battery issue or a starting issue. The battery needs to be load tested. If the battery is faulty it could show 12.6 volts on a meter but 5volts under a load test. Put the meter on the battery and hold it there, have someone else try to start the car and while they start it, read the voltage being drawn. If it is below 10volts. The battery is junk. But if the voltage doesn't change then you probably have a bad starter. NOTE: make sure you are wearing safety glasses and protective cloting while you are testing the battery. If the battery is the problem, it could explode (from low water in cells) This isn't to scare you, just to help protect you.

Switch is most likely the culprit...this starts to get tough, if you can't locate a switch at a local junkyard...Personally, I'd have it DIAGNOSED at the dealership ($40-50)...Then, take it to a mechanic for repair or do it yourself.
Good Luck

92?? check for a thin rubber pipe that runs to the gearbox from the inlet manifold

hi,

hummm, lets see here. you had plug wires stolen and you put new ones back on the vehicle. sounds like you may have gotten the firing order out of place. for a 4cyl the firing order will be 1-3-4-2. so as you look at the distrubutor, # 1 cyl should be going to the plug closest to the drive belts. and then 2 next and so on....

the way to tell where #1 cyl on distrubutor is.. "bump" over the starter until you see a white mark on the belt pulley line up with the marker on the timing belt cover. when you get that done. remove the distrubutor cap and look at which plug wire i's pointing to... it should be #1.... if not you have a firing order problem, (check all other wire orders... ) start with that plug wire being # one and then next (don't remember which way this engine goes clockwise or counter clockwise) but make sure the next in line is 3, and then 4, and then 2..... got it? ...... good luck and hope this helped.