20 Most Recent 1988 Honda Prelude - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Replace the shaft.

There is no adjustment on that clutch you can only adjust the pedal tarvel.

there is a temp switch located on the radiator ..with a quick realease plug..replace the switch or get the old switch from the old rad and try it. be careful..keep the cabin fan on full hot to relieve heat off the engine..and top upp coolant.

either your one of the 2 punps on could be bad usually the master slay cinlinder cluch pump

you don't need to take the rack out, just change your track rod ends, i advise you to change ball joints also and check condition of wishbones and anti roll bar bushes.

how do you bleed a hydrolic clutch on a 1988 Honda Prelude

check for vaccum leaks.........have you replace the fuel fiter on it?

This is a hydraulic clutch, it is self adjusting, it sounds like you need to replace the clutch because it has adjusted out as far as it can. I think you are saying it slips when you try to accelerate, that most definitely means the clutch is worn out.

no pan ..drain plug only

any clicking ?..might be old school set up with speedo cable needing replaced inside the housing ....the square drive ends go away after time or cable breaks somewhere in middle but pressure keeps it working most of the time :)

No quick fixes, once it slip the transmission is pretty well done due to damage to the clutch packs, pull the pan and see how much debris is in there, if it is allot then an overhaul is needed, I would suggest that all the shift solenoids be replaced during the fix, also make sure th connector to the tran is in good condition, no loose pins or damaged connector locks.

Hi, are you sure u need a new thermostat? Running in the mid temp range is ok. If u think u need to change it, here's the info. I believe your Prelude uses a 195 degree thermostat, but go to a good parts store and give them the year make, and model and ask them what thermo. u need. Also get a gasket. The thermostat is located at the end of the radiator hose (the top hose). Disconnect the house at the 'housing' and remove the housing (2 bolts), the thermostat is now exposed. Pop it out (u might need to persuade it w/ a screwdriver (gently pry it out) and remove the gasket, clean gasket surface. Install gasket and thermostat, being careful that they stay in position when u bolt the housing back in place. Re-attach radiator hose, top off coolant, (50/50 Mix), and last, there is a bleeder valve which I believe is on the housing that u loosen after starting the car, when air stops coming out, tighten and u r good to go. Do u have any idea when the coolant was last changed? U might want to consider it if it's been a long time, or u r not sure. Let me know how u make out, or if u have any questions. Good luck! countrycurt0

You most likely have a problem w/ the brake fluid being contaminated. Have u ever had the brake fluid changed? Everytime u need brakes, u should bleed the brakes to remove the old fluid. This is something most people DO NOT do, and the old fluid ruins the calipers and brake cylinders. Look in the master cylinder at the fluid. Is it dark, or clear? When the fluid goes bad, it'll not be clear. Fluid also absorbs moisture which is terrible for the brake system. Make sure any bottles of brake fluid are closed tightly after opening. Moisture and contaminants will corrode the inside of the calipers and brake cylinders, and the pistons stick and bind, and will finally totally seize up. Flush the system starting at the bleeder that's the greatest distance away from the master cylinder, then next greatest distance, 3rd greatest, then closest. Bleed each wheel until fluid runs out clear, and then a few more times to be sure u flushed it all out. Check the master cylinder often, so u don't run it so low it draws in air, or u will have more bleeding to do to get the air out too. U might be able to dissassemble the caliper if it's very recently changed, clean it up, check for any crud and coat w/ clean fluid, reassemble. Good Luck, let me know how u make out. countrycurt0

Could be a dirty fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pump, try running some fuel injector cleaner through it. But it most probably it will be the fuel filter or pump.

you need 2 people, 1 with a spanner on the bleeder and the other to pump the clutch. fill the fluid canaster, pump the clutch, with the bleeder shut, then hold the clutch down then undo the bleeder, without releasing the clutch, allow the clutch to go to the floor air will come out, then tighten the bleeder, then you can release the clutch, keep repeating until you have a stream of fluid and no air, always make sure you have done up the bleeder before you release the clutch, and mke sure you have fluid in the canaster.

When you replaced the caliper, were the posts on the mounting bracket able to slide in and out? They're the posts with the black rubber bellows and they have to be able to expand/compress.

I just did all 4 brakes and have drag at the left rear. When I re-assembled it, the bracket that holds the caliper was frozen. It's supposed to be able to slide in and out. I guess that's my problem, but I can't find anyone to sell me a new bracket...they want me to buy the whole caliper.
Wayne

did you replace or did shop?? if you did replace did you grease the sliders?? they are the pins at the outer most bolts hope this helps

power steering pressure hose over the exhaust manifold cover? me too. just planning on buying new and replacing.

Have you had the car serviced? make sure fuel filter and spark plugs with Lead are changed.