20 Most Recent 2003 Honda Accord - Page 3 Questions & Answers

check there is battery voltage at the clock , if no voltage check fuses , you will have to replace the clock if voltage is ok, As i Know of no one who will attempt repairs.

Test the suspension parts by jacking only ONE front wheel just high enough to clear the ground. Now push the tire back and forth as if you were turning left or right. Is there a lot of movement before you can't push it any further? Watch the ball joints when you do this. Can you see the bottom half move but not the top half? If so then you need to replace them and have the car realigned after and again a couple of months later to correct any settling in changes that may have happened.

The gear shift is not going all the way into park. Whoever did the button should fix this for you. They obviously did not put it back together properly.

Almost certain to be a clutch problem - the clutch plates aren't separating because either: - The operating mechanism has failed, or the clutch pilot bearing is seized (if fitted), or the splined shaft has rusted and preventing the driven plate moving away from the flywheel, or the clutch is contaminated with enough oil to stick the components together (unlikely), or the normally shiny friction faces have formed a layer of corrosion effectively welding the clutch components together - this can happen in a short space of time in damp conditions in a similar way to how some parking brakes stick. Only you can judge which of these is the most likely. If the operating mechanism has failed the clutch operation will almost certainly feel different to usual, lighter, less resistance to the pedal or the pedal having limited or no travel due to being lower than usual. If the pedal seems ok it is perhaps just stuck. I have lost count of the number of times I have needed to start a car in gear and drive and change gear without the clutch until it eventually frees. Sometimes there is no choice but to be extremely rough with it. Only once have I needed to remove a gearbox to fix the problem.

If the motor is good, find the plug and supply 12 volts and ground to it. It will move. Want it to go the other way, reverse the power and ground.

Honda radio codes are entered using the station preset buttons.

Fix Honda Radio "Enter Code" lockout after dead battery ...

? 1:51 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epnMePibIQA Nov 12, 2013 - Uploaded by EpicReviewsTech Yesterday the battery died in our Honda- and after the hassle ofreplacing it I thought all was well- until ...

Radio reset code in 5 minutes for a 2001+ Honda CRV CR ...

? 5:27 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0GNkf-BDXs Mar 21, 2013 - Uploaded by Zawbone Note: sometimes you can find the code sticker in the glovebox. ... trick should work for 2001 and newer Honda ...

Honda CR-V Questions - How a i found radio code - CarGurus

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If you are entering the code correctly then the constant live feed is lost! Check the fuses!

Not sure about the Honda setup, but when my Dakota had those lights both lit, it was a bad speed sensor in the system. I had the additional symptom of no speedometer reading until about 30mph. It seems that the VSS in my system was used at lower speeds by the ABS system to determine when to activate. If the ABS light goes on, many vehicles will also activate the brake light since the two are undoubtedly related.

Hi,it could be that the oil in the steering system is old,or when its cold the oil is slower to move than when its hoter,food for thought,all the best.

The sensor is usually encased in a pnuematic piston located in the front bumper. You ran over a curb? You hit the bumper, it deployed.

test your connector wires.if there current your connector.install your connector to the coil try start your engine if there spark your coil.if not replace your coil

Most racks come with an installation guide giving a web page address for installation help. Have you tried to google the manufacturer for instructions?

It means there is too much fuel in the air/fuel mix going into the engine. You can drive to a repair shop without too much trouble. A lean mix is much more dangerous, but you will use a ton of fuel and not get much power if the mix is too rich. The real problem is why is the computer putting to much fuel in the mix. Maybe the carburetor is bad, maybe the computer or one of the sensors is shot. Either way, get a good mechanic to figure out what is wrong. http://engine-codes.com/p0175_honda.html http://engine-codes.com/p0172_honda.html http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=140155

ON THE TRANSMISSON TWARDS THE RADIATOR THEY LOOK LIKE SMALL ROUND CANISTERS

Most likely it's not the shift solenoid. It's an internal problem in the transmission. But if you want to throw money at it. there are two solenoids on the front side of the transmission that are always a replace on rebuilds. One is about 3 inches long and the other is the same, but is a dual solenoid pack.

Hello, It sounds as if your Automatic Transmission is having issues. The first thing to do is check the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). This is covered in the Owner's Manual (should be in your glovebox??). If the level is low, it will cause issues. Your ATF should be serviced every 30,000 miles. GL, TD

replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, and add some injector cleaner to the gas. Any change? if not it could be something to do with your ignition system, or fuel injectors, or maybe even engine timing.

I have heard that air in the coolant will affect the idle speed, also a vacuum leak. Your English seems perfect to me.

check battery connections, if they are good check the power supply from the battery to starter motor (thick cable), if this is good have someone crank it while you check the signal wire to the starter motor(thin wire), if this is good replace the starter motor. u could tap the starter motor with a hammer if accessible while someone is cranking it, sometimes this will get the starter going again but will still need replacing