20 Most Recent 2001 Honda Civic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

disconnect the battery,wait 5 minutes connect back up,or if you can use a scanner you can clear it

have transmission sensors & switches checked (dealer)

what rpm or speed, both? which Civic engine????? of the 5 and what country????? we can not guess this... ever. and no one ever says.. here. 99% true. why is not easy. 50ways there are. it's running rich. (we have one good input. this) but here are the reasons, (not the 50 causes) all the below are tests. it's misfiring. is rich misfire. causes: many I'll assume the cars 12v power is 10 to 145v at all times. 13.3v running minimum. 1: low compression on one or more cylinders. 150psi w.o.t is min. 2: bad spark or not timed right. to any cylinders. or all. tests. 3: bad fueling. above must be good (tools used and tests) now if compression is good. and the EGR main down leak if spark is good, what causes high HC, simple misfire. what causes misfire.

1. bad spark plugs (ever tune it up? now be the time, huh?)
2. bad injectors, leaking or clogged. clean em.
3. fuel pressure too high, 28 is min, max (see end)
4. you find one injector , NOID lamp test stuck ON.
5. o2 sensors stuck lean (exhaust leaks)
6. Fuel pump regulator stuck closed, causing #3

there are 5 engines, (why not state yours.??????0 1.5 L to 3.0L the fuel pressure is different on all . 40-47 PSI. 1.7L and 2.3L 47-54 PSI on 2.0L and 2.2L 41-48 PSI on 3.0L and then the exceptions 1-- Except SULEV: 48-55 psi SULEV: 47-54 2 Except SULEV: 47-55 psi SULEV: 48-55 psi if you read the FSM,, it shows tests at the rail. fuel pressure. fuel regulation test. shut test injector leak down test. and the injector balance test. we do them all, or fail;. all this is FSM. do you want us to guess or test? the latter avoids the 50 guesses. 49 being wrong.$$$$$$$$$$$$$

If the car type is manual transmission: - Perform the clutch and pressure plate test. PROCEDURE: - Pull up the hand brake, shift the lever to 1st gear, rev up to 2000 rpm, release the clutch pedal at once. - If the engine does not stall, replace the clutch, pressure plate, clutch bearing, regrind the fly wheel and pressure plate precisely. - If the engine stalls, the clutch system is OK and do not need any clutch system repairing. - If the clutch system is OK, check vacuum leaks through intake manifold, vacuum hoses, PCV valve and throttle control cable adjustment, MAP sensor and Throttle Plate Position sensor adjustment (9.8 percent or 0 degrees at TP sensor fully closed position). If the car type is automatic transmission: - Check the transmission control cable adjustment. - Check vacuum leaks through intake manifold, vacuum hoses, PCV valve and throttle control cable adjustment, MAP sensor and Throttle Plate Position sensor adjustment (9.8 percent or 0 degrees at TP sensor fully closed position). - Check the Automatic Transmission Fluid level in the transmission with the car on level floor, engine start, gear lever in P. If the problem persists, contact a competent technician or service personnel.

Check the: - Fuel pump pressure and regulating valve. - Check the ignition system. - Air leaks. (Throttle body gasket, idle air control valve shucked open, PCV valve open, vacuum hoses, gasket intake manifold, A/C VSV). - Muffler.

english please

Hm. In my experience if you lose oil at the rate of 1 qt. per 800 mi. it's going somewhere. Actually, if you lose 1 qt. per 1000 mi. and change your oil every 3,000 mi. it's under $10 in oil you have to buy to keep it topped off, and some places say that's there's nothing wrong.

But, your case is a little more serious.

I think that it's probably leaking past the rings and/or valves and the catalytic converter is eating up the oil, so you see no blue smoke, like you would in a car that has no converter (I'm assuming you have a catalytic converter on your car as my 1981 Honda had).

After 100,000 mi. little irregularities in the piston cylinders can develop, and seals can gradually degrade. So, this is normal for that kind of mileage, although there are people who get over 400,000 mi. on their cars with just regular maintenance and driving highway mi.

You might want to try one of those slower burn oils designed for cars with 75,000 mi. and above. That might slow the burn off of oil down to acceptable levels.

Good luck with it.

could be cam or crank but more like crank sensor with no start. cam sensor fail engine can start and run in limp mode but crank it will not. but you should still have engine management light on. also there will be codes stored on ecu you can read to find a fault.

this is a easy fix locate the sensor with a repair manual found online for free, then unplug, remove, replace

The Civic is a front wheel drive car: It does not have a bearing on the front wheels. Your car is equipped with a transaxle and drive axles that go into the transaxle. There are two CV (constant velocity) joints on each axle: an inner and an outer joint. If you want to pull the hub off of the drive axle or pull the drive axles, you will have to do a lot of other things first. If you still want the pull the hub, respond and I'll tell you how. It is an involved process and I don't want to waste your time with details that are not necessary.

Blinking D lite on shift indicates there's a transmission fault code logged, did you just go over 100k on miles? and are you using honda Z1 transmission fluid?

in barstool talk: the rear oxy is toast. get a new one. if v6 engine, then post that, and we an tell which it is. but is bank1 no matter, bank one means side of engine that has #1 cylinder - Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit fuse - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit open shorted to ground - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) (NEVER)

P1361 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A (Top Dead Center (TDC)

P1361 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A (Top Dead Center (TDC) Possible causes: - Camshaft position sensor. Replace. - Signal wire open or shorted to ground. - ECM. P1456 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Leakage (Fuel Tank System) - Always fill in the fuel with the engine switched off.

If the check engine light is ON, first pull up and interpret the codes. If the light is OFF while driving the car, check for any vacuum leaks, fuel filter for clogged, and fuel pump pressure (38 - 44 psi).