Top 10 2000 Honda Odyssey Questions & Answers

You are probably correct in thinking its the wiper motor. You can do this but you will need to remove all the interior trim from the rear hatch first. Get a trim clip removal tool at a parts store...it will work much better than just a flat blade screwdriver. You'll have to remove the trim panels starting in order from the top of the door, then the left rear window side trim, then right rear window side trim, then the grab handle, and finally the main rear hatch trim panel. Once inside, removing and replacing the rear wiper motor is easy. You'll start by lifting the cover on the wiper arm retention nut. Remove this nut to get the wiper arm off, then remove the nut under neath which is the motor shaft mounting nut. Now, back inside to remove the other 3 motor mounting bolts. Don't forget to disconnect the connector for the motor wires. Reverse steps to replace.

I would not recommend using Dexron III. Honda Odysseys are prone to transmission problems. A drain and fill with Genuine Honda Fluid is Recommended. The drain plug can be removed with a 3/8 ratchet at the bottom of the trans. The fill hole is at the top of the trans. You remove it with a socket on a long extension. The capacity is close to 3 quarts

P1739 Automatic Transaxle Concernsthis is from the Honda manual, what does this mean? it means there is an electronic shift solenoid fault in the transmission and it need to have the Honda dealer hook up there dealer only test equip to pin down the exact issue with the trans controls.

5W20.. buy a quality oil, not cheap no name oil. it will need to meet GF-4 specs..........the dipstick has yellow handle, it should be easy to find.

is the check engine light on also? it sounds like the idle air control valve is bad. this controls the idle of the vehicle. when it is stuck open it causes too much air into the engine and causes it to rev. when it gets to a set rpm, the pcm cuts fuel. then it turns the fuel back on, then the engine revs, then it cuts fuel........code p0505 will prob be set

For 1999 Honda Truck Odyssey 3.5L MFI SOHC VTEC 6cyl the Fuel Filter is located under hood, driver side, rear side of strut tower, mounted in corner.



Fig. 1: The outlet line on a firewall-mounted fuel filter uses a banjo bolt type fitting- CRV and 4-cylinder Odyssey models

Hope helps (remember rated this).

The following is from the Honda Odyssey (1999-2004) Service Manual page 19-81:

"When the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL or check engine light) and the Traction Control System (TCS) light are both on at the same time, you should troubleshoot the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) system first."

"The TCS indicator will come on if one or more of the following components are faulty:
heated oxygen sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, crankshaft position sensor, engine coolant temp. sensor, throttle position sensor, top dead center sensor 1 or 2, intake air temp. sensor, exhaust gas recirculation, barometric pressure sensor, idle air control valve, VTEC pressure switch, knock sensor, fuel supply system, automatic transaxle, and misfire detection system of the PGM-FI system."

Most major auto parts stores have a code reader that will read out your diagnostic trouble codes or DTC's that are stored in the car's computer when the MIL comes on. They will do it for free. With these codes, you can narrow down what is wrong. This is good information to have if you are dealing with a mechanic or dealership. The terminal to hook up the code reader is under the driver's side dash about in line with your right shin.

Your vehicle is equiped with a feature that if the brake is not pressed in the gear shifter will not come out of park. If this feature has gone bad you can bypass it. I provided you with the proper way to do it below. I hope this helps and good luck.

Just check these fuses and your battery/connections:

Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box - #47 (20A), #48 (20A) and #50 (30A)
Driver's Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box - #4 (7.5A)
Passenger's Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box - #3 (10A) and #14 (7.5A)

Apply new engine oil to the threads and flanges of the cylinder head bolts.

Tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in three steps.

NOTE: Perform each step twice.

1st step torque: 39 Nm (4.0 kgf-m, 29 ft. lbs.)
2nd step torque: 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft. lbs.)
3rd step torque: 98.1 Nm (10.0 kgf-m, 72.3 ft. lbs.)